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Old 06-04-2013, 04:57 PM   #1
TheBean
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2007 zx6r lacking power

Well here we go, any help is much appreciated.

I just recently bought my 2007 zx6r with 15k miles and i am IN LOVE. Absolutely nothing like being on two wheels with a super machine underneath you. Everything has been going great until last night, I noticed that im not getting that strong pull between 7000-10000 rpms. No lights are on, nothing sounds different, everything feels and sounds the exact same. But when I hit those rpms it just seems to not build any more speed, and feels like its whinning out. Usually in 3rd gear this thing PULLS hard and its just not the same now. Im no mechanic so Im not sure what it could be, maybe lack of air? Not enough fuel? Im not really sure, any help is appreciated!

Much love people ride safe!!
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #2
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #3
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Does it have a slip-on? The 07 is undertail, correct? My 09 is from beneath (not undertail), and I have an M4 GP slip-on (have had the same one on all 3 of my 09's), and I have a flat spot from 8500-10k. I don't have a PC on it, so it's not tuned for air/fuel ratio. It doesn't bother me really.

The other thing is when my rectifier was going out on my track bike, I was losing power, but it was a significant difference in all RPM's. My guess is it is more to do with air intake/fuel/exhaust issues, since it's only in a certain RPM range.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #4
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did you recently do any maintenance? like air filter change? there is a secondary set of fuel injectors on top of the air box that could of not been plugged back in correctly...maybe
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:12 PM   #5
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candace View Post
Does it have a slip-on? The 07 is undertail, correct? My 09 is from beneath (not undertail), and I have an M4 GP slip-on (have had the same one on all 3 of my 09's), and I have a flat spot from 8500-10k. I don't have a PC on it, so it's not tuned for air/fuel ratio. It doesn't bother me really.


The other thing is when my rectifier was going out on my track bike, I was losing power, but it was a significant difference in all RPM's. My guess is it is more to do with air intake/fuel/exhaust issues, since it's only in a certain RPM range.
Yes it is undertail, and its still the stock exhaust. Its rather annoying since it started last night and doesnt feel like the same bike at all anymore. Just doesnt have that pull that it did. Im thinking its on of those 3 things as well.

Quote:
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did you recently do any maintenance? like air filter change? there is a secondary set of fuel injectors on top of the air box that could of not been plugged back in correctly...maybe
Ive only changed the oil, was planning on doing all the routine maintenence untill this happened. So i dont think thats the case...
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:18 PM   #7
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Is it loosing power after 10 as well, or just between 7-10?

I've had 3 of the 07-08s and have never experienced that... however- I suspect it may be the sensor on your exhaust servo. Stocker has one that closes up from 13-16.5k and chokes the exhaust outflow. Take off your seat, put it in a stand, and rec it to to where your loosing power and see if the servo is closing early
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Is it loosing power after 10 as well, or just between 7-10?

I've had 3 of the 07-08s and have never experienced that... however- I suspect it may be the sensor on your exhaust servo. Stocker has one that closes up from 13-16.5k and chokes the exhaust outflow. Take off your seat, put it in a stand, and rec it to to where your loosing power and see if the servo is closing early
Yes probably after ten as well, was just a rough guess. I like to be eyes down road when im opening it up so I tried my best to get a look at exactly where it was happening.

And that sounds a lot like what I read earlier today. Ill have to try that out, If its closing early im guessing its just gonna close while I have the throttle open and im in right in that rpm range?
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:15 PM   #9
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Correct. Normally it opens at any rpm above 13. When you turn thebike on you should be able to hear it opening. If the power loss happens every time, it should be easy to spot opening early.

Other possibilities are a bad upper injector/connection (I thnk they only come on at higher rpms)... Though his sounds a lot like the servo gone haywire.

Ps- I just hacked the cables on mine, left the motor to open and close sothe bike doesn't throw an FI code

Edit- Byrdman suggested the upper injector already. It's a good guess
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:31 PM   #10
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The uppers not being plugged in would throw a code for sure. I really doubt that is the problem
What do you mean whining out? Is the engine gaining rpm or not? If the engine rpm is climbing but the speed isn't rising at the appropriate rate, it indicates a possible clutch slippage issue
If the engine rpm isn't rising as it should it suggests an air or fuel supply issue. Could be many things that would cause fuel supply issues.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
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The uppers not being plugged in would throw a code for sure. I really doubt that is the problem
What do you mean whining out? Is the engine gaining rpm or not? If the engine rpm is climbing but the speed isn't rising at the appropriate rate, it indicates a possible clutch slippage issue
If the engine rpm isn't rising as it should it suggests an air or fuel supply issue. Could be many things that would cause fuel supply issues.
That sounds right, rpms climb but speed doesnt come with it.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:19 PM   #12
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If the rpm's climb but speed doesn't it means you are blowing through the clutch. It means its need to be adjusted or replaced. If it just started you may be able to salvage it by adjusting it
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
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If the rpm's climb but speed doesn't it means you are blowing through the clutch. It means its need to be adjusted or replaced. If it just started you may be able to salvage it by adjusting it
Is it an easy process to adjust the clutch? And can you ellaborate on blowing through the clutch? I dont feel like im riding it wrong, I have been under the impression that it has a wet clutch though and riding it isnt all that bad. Maybe ive been givin the wrong advice? I appreciate yalls help
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:08 PM   #14
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Wet or not the fibers will wear and glaze and not grip the steel disks. The clutch losing grip from 7 to 10k is typical. You get on the gas and the motor goes through the clutch resulting in climbing rpm's but not speed. It one reason we add stiffer clutch springs for drag racing. More pressure equals better grip between the disks. Riding it is not ok just because its a wet clutch. The parts still wear. There is more than one adjustment point and a manual can be dl for free from the net. Considering what it's doing and the milage, I would just replace it. It's not at all a tough job. Parts are less than 200.00. You may want to get a second opinion before buying parts. As far as buying I prefer oem. I would just buy the steel and the fibers. It's just easier that way.
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Last edited by bluewave18; 06-04-2013 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Dominance View Post
Correct. Normally it opens at any rpm above 13. When you turn thebike on you should be able to hear it opening. If the power loss happens every time, it should be easy to spot opening early.

Other possibilities are a bad upper injector/connection (I thnk they only come on at higher rpms)... Though his sounds a lot like the servo gone haywire.

Ps- I just hacked the cables on mine, left the motor to open and close sothe bike doesn't throw an FI code

Edit- Byrdman suggested the upper injector already. It's a good guess
Thank you for the help, it is much appreciated. I need my baby running right! Gonna check the servo tonight probably

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Wet or not the fibers will wear and glaze and not grip the steel disks. The clutch losing grip from 7 to 10k is typical. You get on the gas and the motor goes through the clutch resulting in climbing rpm's but not speed. It one reason we add stiffer clutch springs for drag racing. More pressure equals better grip between the disks. Riding it is not ok just because its a wet clutch. The parts still wear. There is more than one adjustment point and a manual can be dl for free from the net. Considering what it's doing and the milage, I would just replace it. It's not at all a tough job. Parts are less than 200.00. You may want to get a second opinion before buying parts. As far as buying I prefer oem. I would just buy the steel and the fibers. It's just easier that way.
I appreciate it, I really dont mind spending the money on a new clutch anyway. I want it to run like new so will probably end up doing this as well. And when I really checked it out, Im still gaining speed-just not as fast as I believe I should. If the clutch is slipping will I not gain any speed or just gain very slowly? And around what milage do clutches begin to malfunction?
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Thank you for the help, it is much appreciated. I need my baby running right! Gonna check the servo tonight probably



I appreciate it, I really dont mind spending the money on a new clutch anyway. I want it to run like new so will probably end up doing this as well. And when I really checked it out, Im still gaining speed-just not as fast as I believe I should. If the clutch is slipping will I not gain any speed or just gain very slowly? And around what milage do clutches begin to malfunction?
Think of a sliping transmission....the RPMs go up but the bike doesnt move. It depends on how the bike was ridden for clutch time...my zx14 at 18k on the clock with the original clutch. Ive seen ppl change clutches after 3k because they dont know how to ride

Is it bogging when u try to rev it? I still dont understand what the problem is...take it by Motorcycles Unlimited and have them test ride it...
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
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And around what milage do clutches begin to malfunction?
Some will run for 40,000 mi or more, so go out in 15k. It depends on riding style, previous owner activity (clutching it up/drag racing alot?), and sheer luck of production quality.

The clutch plates aren't hard to replace, if that is indeed the issue.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:55 AM   #18
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PS- I have the factory service manual for our bikes, so if you cant find a download pm me and maybe itll fit in an email
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Think of a sliping transmission....the RPMs go up but the bike doesnt move. It depends on how the bike was ridden for clutch time...my zx14 at 18k on the clock with the original clutch. Ive seen ppl change clutches after 3k because they dont know how to ride

Is it bogging when u try to rev it? I still dont understand what the problem is...take it by Motorcycles Unlimited and have them test ride it...
Will do, ive heard good things about that place.

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PS- I have the factory service manual for our bikes, so if you cant find a download pm me and maybe itll fit in an email
That would be awesome, ima send you pm
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