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Old 05-03-2013, 10:28 AM   #1
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Does anyone know how to bleed the linked brakes on a VFR? Please help

I've done the front, no problem, these rear linked brakes are a !

I've been following a guide step by step, now I've got no pressure in the rear pedal, and no fluid will bleed anywhere from the rear master cylinder.

Does anyone have any experience with this, Wild West Honda wants $238 to change the fluids....yeah that. I've gotta figure this out.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:31 AM   #2
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my buddy is having the same problem, let me know what you come up with.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #3
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I think you have to tilt the rear caliper.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:34 AM   #4
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I think you have to tilt the rear caliper.
Yeah I've got it tilted up to the top of the disc like this guy shows in the guide.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...ltimate-guide/

I up somewhere. None of the bleed points work.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:39 AM   #5
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Patrick at motorcycles had your style vfr I'd drop him a note

yeah lbs is a
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:45 AM   #6
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I opened them up in the wrong order first, so now I have air in different spots in the line.

My current idea is to have someone push the rear pedal and hold it, open up all the bleeds for the rear, then close them and release the pedal?
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:52 AM   #7
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Sounds like you got air in the line somehow. BTW, if you open up the nipple ONLY when you apply pressure on the lever or pedal, and close the nipple before the lever or pedal goes full travel, you should not suck air back into the brake system. On a bike, you should be able to do this by yourself.

My VFR1200 has a similar linked brake system, and I have no problem bleeding F&R.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:54 AM   #8
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Are u using a vacuum or the ol open a nipple method?
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:58 AM   #9
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I'm using a mighty vac. Pushing the rear pedal isnt causing any pressure at all in the rear system right now.

When I push the linked actuator on the front and try to bleed it actually pushed fluid out of the rear container causing it to over flow.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Are u using a vacuum or the ol open a nipple method?
This.
If you've got a bunch of air in the line you'll play to get it out by normal bleeding.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
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This.
If you've got a bunch of air in the line you'll play to get it out by normal bleeding.
I'm trying to suck all the air out to one bleed point, but it isn't working and I don't understand why. I should be able to pump the pedal with the might vac pressurized on pone bleed point, and just keep pumping until all the air is out and fluid starts flowing.....but it aint working like that
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
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I'm trying to suck all the air out to one bleed point, but it isn't working and I don't understand why. I should be able to pump the pedal with the might vac pressurized on pone bleed point, and just keep pumping until all the air is out and fluid starts flowing.....but it aint working like that
Is your MitiVac holding vacuum while you're trying to bleed or not? If it's not holding vacuum, you have a leak somewhere between the reservoir and your bleed point. If it's holding vacuum, the problem is most likely in the balancer, or whatever the thing in the middle is called. I don't think fluid flows freely from the front to the rear through the balancer. You have to actuate it to get fluid to the rear.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:07 PM   #13
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It holds pressure, I've tried actuating that control thing in the middle, by pushing the cylinder on the front left caliper, it doesnt work.

There is no resistance there either, something is keeping the fluid from going from the rear master cylinder to the actuator on the front left caliper, so it can be pushed through the control valve in the middle to the rear.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:26 PM   #14
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Did you get fluid from the rear master cylinder to the left front caliper?
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:39 PM   #15
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no it wont do anything. I'm wondering now if my rear master cylinder is even working, none of this makes sense if it was working.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #16
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Sounds like you need to bleed the banjo bolt at the rear master cylinder, then.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:46 PM   #17
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Ok, I pumped the rear held it down, then opened the middle bleeder behind the tank, let air out, closed bleeder, released the pedal. I repeated this a few times and the fluid level ROSE in the rear master cylinder.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:47 PM   #18
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Sounds like you need to bleed the banjo bolt at the rear master cylinder, then.
I'll try that
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:55 PM   #19
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There are 8 pages in the service manual to fully describe the brake bleeding process. You'll be pretty darn lucky to get it right by guessing. And it's the left front caliper that you have to remove and tilt to get the air from the slave cylinder out. I don't think I have a way to scan it, but give me a few minutes and I'll see if I can get usable photos of the pages.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
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There are 8 pages in the service manual to fully describe the brake bleeding process. You'll be pretty darn lucky to get it right by guessing. And it's the left front caliper that you have to remove and tilt to get the air from the slave cylinder out. I don't think I have a way to scan it, but give me a few minutes and I'll see if I can get usable photos of the pages.
He's following directions in a link that pretty thoroughly cover it. Homemade drawings and actual pics of a guy going through the process.

Looking at his last post, it doesn't look like he's bled from the rear master cylinder to the front caliper yet. I think he's trying to bleed all the way through at once.
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