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Old 03-25-2013, 09:20 PM   #21
brian1570
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I like this approach and if things break, bring it to you for warranty work
lmao, jokes on him. we aren't a kawi dealer.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:03 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Blanco View Post
SO I started doing maintenece on my ZX10R Saturday. Changed my gas cap, washed the bike, cleaned and lubed the chain, and did an oil filter change.

Even consulted my owners manual to ensure proper oil amount.

All was well in the world....until....I went into my kitchen and saw my ZX14 Owner's manual on the counter. I even thought...how in the did my ZX14 manual get here??
Then it hit me...I consulted the wrong oil change spec!!!! Overfilled my ZX10 by 3/4 quart of oil!!! banghead:

No harm done....now Im weighing the option of dumping all the oil and refill (easiest yet most costly) or around trying to drain 3/4 quart of oil (bigger pain in the but cheap).

SO go ahead peanut gallery....bash away....enjoy my misery!!
You read your owner's manual? That's kooky talk
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:06 AM   #23
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Just let Lucar suck it out. He'sgottimeforthat
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:08 AM   #24
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Just let Lucar suck it out. He'sgottimeforthat
Must. resist. comment.




Chris 5.0 and I did that with the duc, seemed easy....
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:43 AM   #25
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Must. resist. comment.




Chris 5.0 and I did that with the duc, seemed easy....
It was on the gsxr


And its very easy to do when oil is cool. Try it when its scorching hot lol
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:14 AM   #26
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If you decide to just drain the excess and try to catch the plug back in, record it and set it to Benny Hill music for us lol.


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Syringe would be easier, heck I will even throw in my spoon and lighter.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:17 AM   #27
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its not that bad, just gotta be quick and precise.
He is not quick or precise, ask Lucar.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:21 AM   #28
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Don't bother with the syringe or drain plug. Just rotate the oil filter until a trickle starts to flow. Place under it an empty oil quart bottle with the top sliced open to catch the oil. All oil bottles have graduating marks on the side. Just drain to just shy of 3/4qt, then tighten oil filter back up.

You might not even get a drop of oil on ya.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:33 AM   #29
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suck it out with a straw
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:55 AM   #30
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Not sure about you but I can't get to the filter or drain plug without pulling plastics. I could draw it from the fill hole myself if I needed with a syringe. I find it easier and less time consuming to just open the belly plastics up
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:58 AM   #31
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Not sure about you but I can't get to the filter or drain plug without pulling plastics. I could draw it from the fill hole myself if I needed with a syringe. I find it easier and less time consuming to just open the belly plastics up
i can get to mine without plastic removal. i think im going to just unscrew the plug....drain a bit and eyeball. the sight glass. messy but time to correct my own dumbfuck mistake.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:00 AM   #32
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Cracking it at the filter usually means oil all over the header. Loosen the plug but DONT pull it from the hole. It's gonna make a mess
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:05 AM   #33
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Cracking it at the filter usually means oil all over the header. Loosen the plug but DONT pull it from the hole. It's gonna make a mess
Volfy is correct here. THe design on the ZX10R would drain straight down and miss the header. Its more of a pain getting the filter wrench in to loosen. Not uncommon for me to dent the filter removing it. I do not overtighten the filter..its just an odd space to remove without dropping the lower fairing.

Drain plug it is and now I know without consultation.....ZX10R=3.5 us qt with filter change....zx14 4.3 us qt!

I wrote it 500 times last night so I would not forget.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:08 AM   #34
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Cracking it at the filter usually means oil all over the header. Loosen the plug but DONT pull it from the hole. It's gonna make a mess
On a bike that messes up the headers, I always cut a piece of cardboard to make a trough or drain tray. Either way, draining 3/4qt is not a big deal.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:11 AM   #35
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Sounds good. Just out of curiosity... doesn't the new ZX10R have a sight window? I could've sworn my '08 ZX10R had one. I usually don't bother looking up the specs and just watch the glass sight window.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:13 AM   #36
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Sounds good. Just out of curiosity... doesn't the new ZX10R have a sight window? I could've sworn my '08 ZX10R had one. I usually don't bother looking up the specs and just watch the glass sight window.
Yeah it definitely does. I usually consult the spec...fill to that and check the sight glass pre and post start up after oil change.

This time...went in the houst and realized WTF i did before even looking at the sight glass.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:52 AM   #37
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Aside from the filter, they made it pretty easy for us to change the oil on this bike. Once you get a filter tool that works, you're golden. On my 2004 ZX-10R I had to remove the lower fairings and fold up a piece of alum foil to let the oil flow from the filter and not get all over the headers. That is why I changed my own oil on that bike.

Jeff, do you pre-fill your filter?
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:05 AM   #38
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Its never pre filled by the time I get mine on lol
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:07 AM   #39
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Also Jeff, when I do the oil change I do it in a specific order to avoid getting an airpocket. Happened to me the first time I did oil change on my 2011...can't have the plug and filter out at the same time

Warm up bike
Remove drain plug
Screw plug back in once draining is complete..
Remove filter
Prefill new filter (let oil soak in)
Install filter
Fill with oil
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:34 AM   #40
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The few seconds it takes to charge up a dry oil filter isn't enough to do any damage to the engine. There are typically enough oil left on the bearing surfaces that thin film lubrication can easily be maintained until oil pressure comes up to normal. It is no worse than starting on a cold morning with viscous (thick) oil after your bike has sat overnight, or for days. Engine oil pumps are self-priming.

BTW, it is one reason why it is good to do an oil change right after the engines has run for a while and up to normal temp.

If you are curious, just watch the oil pressure idiot light next time you change your oil, and time it with a stop watch if you like, vs. a "normal" cold start up. The difference is not that great.
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