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Old 03-02-2007, 02:05 PM   #1
AggieGixxer
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Question for the paint folks (Finished!!!!!!!!!)

Well, she's finished. Took a bit more work than I expected, but I'm happy with it. The tail could have been done better, but I painted it in the garage of my dad's neighbor, and he told me it would be ok to leave in there while it dries. Well, I go back the next day, and it's laying on the ground beat to ! So, I did a quick job on it over the weekend. Would have been better if I had more time to spend on it. Not too bad IMO and I probably have about $60 into it (fiberglass/bondo/primer/paint), and the set cost me $200 last season.

dsc00673wd1

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Last edited by AggieGixxer; 03-20-2007 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 03-02-2007, 02:22 PM   #2
R6kid
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check collegestation.craigslist.org in tools, there is a cheap gravity fed paint gun

just an option :dontknow:

can't answer the sanding question, but its a free bump for ya
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Old 03-02-2007, 02:30 PM   #3
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Let the pro do it so it would look good without the headache. Check with houseofpain, a forum member & sponsor for price.
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Old 03-02-2007, 02:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by level5
Let the pro do it so it would look good without the headache. Check with houseofpain, a forum member & sponsor for price.
I've thought about that, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on something that will probably slide down the track this year. I'm not looking for a professional finish, but I don't want it to look like total either. I just wanted something to use at the track do I don't mess up my street fairings that look halfway decent. Hopefully next year, my finances will allow me to buy a newer bike that is already prepped for the track with a quality paint job on it.
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Old 03-02-2007, 02:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
With rattle can paint, it really doesn't matter when you sand. If you sand the bodywork overall with 400 grit (wet sanding), you can shoot the primer, then paint right on top of that. Spray paint is so thick that it fills just about everything as far as scratches, but the 400 grit sanding will make it smooth enough and they'll be no sanding scratches.

You don't need to color sand spray paint unless you just want to. If you are doing a spray paint color then clear, it won't matter anyway.
Good advice...thank you.
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:04 PM   #6
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Bring it by my shop and we will shoot it for you no charge
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:24 PM   #7
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Bring it by my shop and we will shoot it for you no charge
Runner, I can't take anything for free, but check your PM's.


Thank you for the tips and info guys. Time to go off to work. :eh:
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:42 PM   #8
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Bring it by my shop and we will shoot it for you no charge
so many nice people around here
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:12 PM   #9
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questions for the guys with the shops, what is a "good" paint to get from the auto paint guys without costing too much for those showroom paint jobs. the average paint with decent luster and factor in the bike might get rashed again what is the best bang for buck paint product line?
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
Don't forget guys, I know that you all think that the cost to have your bike painted is way too high, but this is expensive!
:notworthy

I've spent $100 already on paint and supplies for a bike just to get the owner some color samples and design concepts. I haven't even touched the bike yet! :confused2
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:50 PM   #11
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i think i spent around 150 in paint and clear coat on mine. Three colors. I used the lower end PPG paint
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:52 PM   #12
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dont they just add in all that stabilizer/activator and whatever into the paint if you ask them to? i would like to take it to a shop but want to try to paint it myself once to see how it is and if it is alot cheaper to DIY or just send them off since most place is like 200-300 starting price. if i can diy for 100-150 then its a decent savings.
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Old 03-02-2007, 10:32 PM   #13
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You're an encyclopedia of painting! :notworthy
Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge on the subject. It's amazing how many folks think "it's just paint" when you quote a price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
I have tons of fiberglass panels from crashed bodywork if someone wants some test panels
Yeah, I've still thought about trekking down to you for some of those...

I was doing some test sprays for color combos and realized that I have a spindle of cheap CDRs that never worked for $hit, so I've started sanding and painting the backs of those. Quality of the finish stinks because of some additives in the plastic on them (they crackle almost instantly), but they show the true colors at least.
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
Yeah, need to get you over here to do some airbrush work chicky!

If you don't get on the ball, I'm going to teach myself how to do it
NO, NO, NO!
PM me your address again and we'll see if I can get there on Tuesday before work (if that works for you, of course).
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:00 AM   #15
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I painted my street tracker with colorite. For the primer, base coat, pearl (couldn't help myself) and clearcoat with their respective hardeners I spent $300. I did all the work myself and it came out pretty good.
But it was so expensive that the track bike fairings are gonna get rattle canned when they are ready.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:11 AM   #16
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Just curious - were you using the Color Rite to stick with a factory paint code or did you choose them for another reason?

For color matching, they are who I use but for full repaints their product just isn't THAT far above the industry standards to warrant the cost IMHO.
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:49 PM   #17
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It's good to know that some ppl have an idea how much paint & materials cost. I spend approx $ 7000.00 a month at our shop and we use only Sikens I believe it to be the best and it requires very little buffing

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Old 03-04-2007, 01:44 AM   #18
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Well, today I got the lower and tail wet sanded and primed. The tail has a couple of spider cracks in it that I will need to put a bit of filler on, but other than that, looks like my first time fiberblass/bondo went pretty good. I'm going to do that tomorrow and hopefully hit them both with some paint.
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Old 03-04-2007, 08:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieGixxer
Well, today I got the lower and tail wet sanded and primed. The tail has a couple of spider cracks in it that I will need to put a bit of filler on, but other than that, looks like my first time fiberblass/bondo went pretty good. I'm going to do that tomorrow and hopefully hit them both with some paint.
If the spider cracks are in an area that will get any kind of movement or 'pull', then the cracks will come back with only filler. You'll need to reinforce it (front and/or back) so that it's no longer a weak point.
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:09 PM   #20
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They were used farings that have been down, and the spider cracks are on top of the tail where you'd mount a lap timer.
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