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Old 12-31-2012, 06:46 PM   #1
itsmebanky
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New rider questions.

Hey guys. Just picked up my first bike and I have some initial questions.

1) shifting lower gears tends to be some what violent. It's loud and I can feel and hear something like a "clunk" noise going 1st to 2nd or downshifting to 1st. It gets less violent/loud as the gears get higher. In fact sometimes in not sure if it actually shifted into 5th or 6th gears because its so opposite.

2) sometimes from 1st to 2nd ill actually get neutral. I attribute this to the fact that I'm a beginner and probably not using enough force to shift.

3) which brings me to another noob question: where is the most optimal / efficient rpm range to shift? I'm not racing so obviously not redline but for example my car will hit 20mph at 3000rpm so I shift to 2nd and the same for subsequent gears. With the 696 I've noticed following my car habits I am shifting at 4000rpms. Does this sound right?

4) what is the recommended tire pressure? I was looking through the manual but didn't see it.

5) is checking tire life the same as car tires? Can I use the penny trick and just find a groove on the tire to measure?

Thanks for any help guys.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:49 PM   #2
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:57 PM   #3
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Depends on bike I ride a duc streetfighter. 1098 and in general the shifting can be chunky in low gear on that bike.
Rpm range I guess is a feel thing. I usually if cruising go to 6000 to 7000 rpm. But tgats a twin for you
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:00 PM   #4
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:11 PM   #5
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:34 PM   #6
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The penny trick isn't the best for a motorcycle. Motorcycle tires have wear bars. Look for them. Once the wear bar is even with the tread, replace the tire. In this example, it's time to replace the tire.

New rider questions.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:58 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the replies guys. For reference my bike is a 09 monster 696. The gear shifting probably isn't as violent as I'm suggesting. I'm just not used to feeling and hearing gear engagement. Shifting up is definitely audible though at lower gears.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmebanky View Post
Hey guys. Just picked up my first bike and I have some initial questions.

1) shifting lower gears tends to be some what violent. It's loud and I can feel and hear something like a "clunk" noise going 1st to 2nd or downshifting to 1st. It gets less violent/loud as the gears get higher. In fact sometimes in not sure if it actually shifted into 5th or 6th gears because its so opposite.

Are you downshifting then just letting go of the clutch? Or slowly easing off of it?

2) sometimes from 1st to 2nd ill actually get neutral. I attribute this to the fact that I'm a beginner and probably not using enough force to shift.

I'll still sometime' Neutral on my bike every now and then--It could be either 1. You need more pressure 2. Clutch might not be pulled in all the way or 3. IT COULD be mechanical, I'm not familiar with the DUC

3) which brings me to another noob question: where is the most optimal / efficient rpm range to shift? I'm not racing so obviously not redline but for example my car will hit 20mph at 3000rpm so I shift to 2nd and the same for subsequent gears. With the 696 I've noticed following my car habits I am shifting at 4000rpms. Does this sound right?

Once again, I'm not familiar with the Duc, but over on their forum's someone posted a question about RPM's and cruising, the general consensus seem's to be for normal riding, Shift at 4-5K

4) what is the recommended tire pressure? I was looking through the manual but didn't see it.

Did you check under the seat? Anyway. "38 rear, 36 front " http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-...tml#post277556
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/42-monst...-pressure.html



5) is checking tire life the same as car tires? Can I use the penny trick and just find a groove on the tire to measure?

http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/

Thanks for any help guys.
Hope this helps!
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmebanky View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys. For reference my bike is a 09 monster 696. The gear shifting probably isn't as violent as I'm suggesting. I'm just not used to feeling and hearing gear engagement. Shifting up is definitely audible though at lower gears.
That's normal. You can feel it on a bike when shifting from neutral to first and first to second. Especially neutral to first.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:41 PM   #10
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09 696 was my first bike loved it until I out grew it lol.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:11 PM   #11
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That's normal. You can feel it on a bike when shifting from neutral to first and first to second. Especially neutral to first.
This makes me feel so much better. Neutral to first is pretty loud.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstermanus View Post
09 696 was my first bike loved it until I out grew it lol.
Yeah I'm loving it so far. I knew for sure I didn't want to get into a super sport / sport bike so the monster was a great decision

What did you "upgrade" to?
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:52 PM   #13
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Oops nvm. Streetfighter. That's definitely my next bike in a couple years.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:04 AM   #14
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Good questions on a great bike! There are no bad questions....be safe...with saddle time you will be "one" with your Duc....be safe
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:36 AM   #15
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Shifting into first will clunk on most wet-clutch bikes. The oil film between the clutch plates create a bit of static drag, which is what that clunk is. Some bikes might even lurch forward a bit. That is completely normal. As soon as the bike goes into 1st gear and the clutch plates move, that drag goes away.

As for upshifting, most noobies pull in too much clutch lever. Realistically, you really only need to pull in the clutch just beyond the engagement point. All it takes is a very brief moment of taking the engine power off the the transmission gears. Start by pre-loading the shift lever by applying up-pressure with your left boot (you are wearing boots, yes?). You'll feel resistance and the bike won't shift up because there is pressures applied by the engine's power on the transmission gears. Now pull in the clutch lever quickly and just pass the clutch engagement point. If you have the clutch lever adjusted properly, this will only take small amount if travel. You'll feel the shift lever snick up and the bike goes into gear. Keep practicing till the coordination becomes second nature. Most seasoned riders can upshift this way without the pillion even feeling it.

Actually, you don't even need the clutch for upshifting. All you have to do is let pressure off the throttle briefly, while simultaneously click up on the shift lever. This also takes the pressure off the transmission gears and allow it to shift. In essense, this is how all the "shift assistance" work, whether aftermarket or OEM. In stead of requiring you to back off the throttle, the controller cuts ignition/fuel momentarily. Does the same thing. Don't try this trick just yet, untill you get the preloading bit sorted out.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:13 AM   #16
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