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Old 12-28-2012, 01:45 AM   #21
xtelevisionset
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volfy View Post
even though engine load is low, the oil pressure is low, so lubrication with the cold and viscous oil is not good. Plus the engine bearings are all designed to work under load.
Engine bearings are "designed to work under load", but the success of that design incorporates the need for the critical lubricant that you just said was too "cold and viscous" when the engine was not yet warmed up.

My understanding is that minimum RPM and minimum load are both critical. The term "operating temperature" is relative to both mechanical engine clearances and the fluids necessary to lubricate them.

My KTM gauge cluster includes a temperature indicator, and the manual defines a minimum reading that you wait for, prior to riding. That reading is roughly half of what it reads at full operating temperature (no clue as to whether it is a linear scale). At idle, warm up takes about 3 to 4 minutes to come up to that minimum.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGShannon View Post
Engine bearings are "designed to work under load", but the success of that design incorporates the need for the critical lubricant that you just said was too "cold and viscous" when the engine was not yet warmed up.

My understanding is that minimum RPM and minimum load are both critical. The term "operating temperature" is relative to both mechanical engine clearances and the fluids necessary to lubricate them.

My KTM gauge cluster includes a temperature indicator, and the manual defines a minimum reading that you wait for, prior to riding. That reading is roughly half of what it reads at full operating temperature (no clue as to whether it is a linear scale). At idle, warm up takes about 3 to 4 minutes to come up to that minimum.
Most engine crank journals and cam bearings are plain bearing in design and work by thin-film lubrication between the mating surfaces from oil ports and galleys under pressure. They work the best when there is some engine load (not idling) and normal oil pressure (when engine is operating normally and not idling). Especially when the oil is cold and viscous, it takes more pressure to pump and circulate that oil. The higher viscosity at lower temps could mean that the pressure loss between the oil pump and where the oil exits the journal ports are such that little pressure is left. Some engines compensate for this by elevating idle RPM when cold, which boosts the oil pressure.

You will probably not do much harm to the engine if you just let it idle warm up. IMHO it is not best practice and plain waste fuel when it is not necessary to do so.

Now drivability is a different deal. Most FI bikes are better about this when cold, but some still puff and coughs the first mile of so. Some carbed bikes are a lot worse about this, particularly the ones that are leaned out too much for EPA reasons. A stage 1 jet kit sometimes fixs it up nicely.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:10 AM   #24
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:04 AM   #25
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:28 AM   #26
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:13 AM   #27
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My normal routine with my RD's is, start the bike with choke on, run it for few seconds, then choke off. If the bike idles fine, I then let it idle for few seconds and then start riding with low rpms for couple minutes until the 2T oil is circulated well and then take off.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:27 PM   #28
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And the answer is... every bike is different. Even two of the same exact bike can each have their quirks sometimes. Plus, there's differences for elevation and temperature.

My GSX-F could be started with no choke, so long as the temp outside was a good 65*f or so. In all, I'd usually give it no more than a minute before riding off. It'd be a little rough for the first bit but over all did better if I didn't let her idle too long. I might give it just shy of two minutes (choke on) if the weather was really cold, and drop the choke to about 10-20% until a mile or two.
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