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Old 12-25-2012, 11:05 PM   #1
Fastola
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:07 PM   #2
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tHE SV650S has a front fairing, that's about it.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:15 PM   #3
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Just slap a OHLINS sticker on.

thus setting sag to 1 million...
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:16 PM   #4
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Last edited by Fastola; 12-25-2012 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:43 PM   #5
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lol i feel bad now


http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/gen...ion-sv650.html

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360469
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:46 PM   #6
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There's a couple of options, everything from install F3 internals to springs and emulators.
You can get really good performance from a Race Tech spring and emulator set up at a reasonable price.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:51 PM   #7
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:02 AM   #8
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The S model has clipon handlebars whereas the naked has a tubular bar that clamps on top of the top triple. Depending on year there can be a 1 tooth count difference on the rear sprocket. There's a couple of other minor items, but they slip my mind at the moment.

To keep the stock fork tubes you'll want new springs and valve emulators. That's what I had put in mine to avoid the hassle and other issues that you have to deal with if you go the Gixxer fork route. The valve emulators give better performance over both compression and rebound damping than the stock damping-rod can do. In the stock damping rod fork, there's simply a metered, unadjustable hole or holes near the bottom of the damping rod inside the fork that provides both the compression and rebound damping so all you can do is adjust preload and then change fork oil viscosity for more or less damping. When emulators are installed, the holes in the damping rods are drilled out so they basically serve no function and the emulators which sit under the spring take over. They have an adjustment /screw built in so you can change compression damping, then you adjust rebound damping via oil viscosity. So not perfect, but it does separate the 2 and give actual adjustments Now, to adjust the emulators, you do have to take them out of the fork but you don't have to disassemble the fork to do that. You basically pop off the fork cap (ONE at a time), pull out the spacer, spring, and emulator, make changes and put it all back in. You'll have to fashion a hook or get some mechanics tool to reach in and grab the emulator.

For the initial mods, you of course will have to remove the forks from the bike and disassemble them and have the tools to put them together (seal driver mainly). Other than that, a drill to modify the damping rod, and a hacksaw or something similar to cut the stock spacer (since the emulator takes up extra space) is the main stuff you'll need other than basic socket/wrenches and new fork oil. I run 20w in mine.

Now, I've never done all of that work myself but I have the book, I've seen videos of it done, and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express many times and it's all pretty straight forward. If you want to make it REALLY easy, take it up to P1 in Tomball or Motorcycles Unlimited on 1960. I'll guess it'll probably cost about 500-600 including the parts. Either of those can probably explain it better than I, or even look up Race Tech's web site and give them a call. They're normally pretty helpful and will give advice and suggestions for what you want to accomplish.

Rear shock.... yeah, sell a kidney for an Ohlins or at least a Penske.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:20 AM   #9
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:27 AM   #10
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:40 AM   #11
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Suspension is something I would let a professional due. Especially being a "track bike" something that is one of the most important factors when riding at the track.

Personally I have seen people go the route you are wanting to go and end up taking it somewhere as a end result. Not trying to discourage you but just giving you some insight on what i've seen.


If you have some questions about getting it done/cheap shoot me a pm and ill see what I can do about getting you in a right direction.

GL with whatever you decide.
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Ill probably do the springs, emulators. If you dont mind, pm me a price for the parts, ill prob. buy them from you here shortly.

Thanks.
So yeah RaceTech Springs and Emulators are about 300 for parts... and perform really well once you get them set up. I have them on my SV and it feels good even with the crappy ZX-10 shock I have. I couldn't afford the Penske or Ohlins but if you can... that is the way to go.. hands down!
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:48 AM   #13
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suspension is important as your thread indicates... and doing it as cheaply as you can is quite satisfying... but in truth if you have not done it before, or at least been with and assisted someone else doing it... it will be much cheaper to just take the bike to patrick and let his folks do it...
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:09 AM   #14
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:13 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Probably do a ohlins shock in a couple months. Im thinking a zx or gxsr shock is better than stock and pretty cheap. Not sure how much better, but ill give it a shot for a trackday or 2.


392, A shop would be nice, but im pretty sure i can do it myself with a couple tool purchases. Plus there isnt a better way to learn about suspension than play with it.


what size spark plug is on these, as in 14mm?

I think it is the 06/07 ZX-10 shock that bolts up with no modification at all. It is sprung for 180 lbs stock...
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:56 AM   #16
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If you springs and emulators on the SV, there are several schools of thought on how to modify damper rods, so do your research before the tear down.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:09 AM   #17
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:16 AM   #18
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F3 internals are the best option. Set one fork up for compression and one fork up for rebound and boom. Awesome forks
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