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Old 12-09-2012, 01:26 PM   #1
Fastola
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:42 PM   #2
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The license plate light will go brighter when you press the brakes lol
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:01 PM   #3
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Get the manual and find the wire colors for the license plate light wires.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:20 PM   #4
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The license plate light will go brighter when you press the brakes lol

Your is not even qualified to comment about electrical!
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:29 PM   #5
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Hey i am more than qualified
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Your is not even qualified to comment about electrical!
Rofl. With his quick connect headlights

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:23 PM   #7
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Hey that works and i can go into ninja mode at night
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:50 AM   #8
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:02 PM   #9
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:40 PM   #10
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Easy enough.. Worked out like i thought. Except $4 l.e.d ebay lights COULD'NT be used as a fleshlight for a mouse, much less illuminate a license plate.

Now i know, and ill buy something that actually emits light.
Did you try touching the wires straight to the battery? If you aren't getting near that light output... you installed them wrong.

I've used a couple different cheapy LED lights, and all worked fine... mine are even way TOO bright
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:43 PM   #11
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Did you try touching the wires straight to the battery? If you aren't getting near that light output... you installed them wrong.

I've used a couple different cheapy LED lights, and all worked fine... mine are even way TOO bright
I agree. I was going to suggest taking a voltage reading to see if it is a 12v source
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:07 PM   #12
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Did u get that inspection? I use my tail light for the tag.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I bought some $4 led "screw in to license plate lights" and looks pretty simple..

Can i just clear part of the brake light wire then wrap the pos and nef. around it and electical tape it back?

Thanks.

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If you wrapped the positive AND negative to the same wire there is your problem. The negative can run straight to the frame.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #14
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If you wrapped the positive AND negative to the same wire there is your problem. The negative can run straight to the frame.
You know... I never thought about running it to the frame. I had the factory wires, so I've crammed those in there. Would be much easier to wire the ground to the fender eliminator which is bolted to the frame. Hmm... maybe after the next time i have the tail apart.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:17 PM   #15
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Last time I needed a license plate light I went to autozone and bought one of those cheap LED boards they sell in the "cheap ricer " aisle that is supposed to go into your dome light in a car. I cut off the crappy thing that is supposed to replace a bulb a feed power to the LED's and used a car connector I had laying around to splice it into the stock license plate light harness. If you can't find that harness, any switched 12V source will work. LED's done pull a lot of current so the extra draw shouldn't hurt even if it isn't technically the right circuit.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:20 PM   #16
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Easy enough.. Worked out like i thought. Except $4 l.e.d ebay lights COULD'NT be used as a fleshlight for a mouse, much less illuminate a license plate.

Now i know, and ill buy something that actually emits light.
My only question is why would you want to use a fleshlight on a mouse?!!!



That's just sick
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:55 PM   #18
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:16 AM   #19
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your signals should have a constant wire when you turn the ignition on. They are the parking lights/DRL. There is also a separate wire from the original license plate light. black and black/white stripe. is what I have on mine.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:19 AM   #20
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I got some "bolt litz " from autozone that have a positive and neg. Wire attached. I just hooked the black with ground and the reds to the running light wires and it worked perfectly.
The lights are pretty bright and actually looks very good.
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