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Old 10-12-2012, 05:21 PM   #1
j_e_hurst
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Question Rear axle location after changing chain and sprockets

Where do i put the rear axle after changing chain and sprockets? Do I move it all the way forward or start off in the middle to give some room?
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:24 PM   #2
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last few times i did one (ninja 250 and CB750) i put it more foward. but thats me.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:24 PM   #3
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Mine was right about in the middle from the factory.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:25 PM   #4
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? Are you asking if you need to adjust the chain adjusters?
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:25 PM   #5
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middle is good..
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:28 PM   #6
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the rear axle location is dictated by chain with proper chain slack, make sure you align the axle with the markings on either side of your swing arm
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
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? Are you asking if you need to adjust the chain adjusters?
No. I was asking if the swing arm needs to be all the way forward or to put it towards the middle. There's a larger hash mark in the middle I think I'm gonna go with there.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:30 PM   #8
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the rear axle location is dictated by chain with proper chain slack, make sure you align the axle with the markings on either side of your swing arm
Ya, i was just seeing where a good starting point is. I'm going to have to take about 3 links off anyway.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #9
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any gearing change?
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Ya, i was just seeing where a good starting point is. I'm going to have to take about 3 links off anyway.

oh..you are right, you do not want push the axle all the way forward to the engine, if you do that, you will not be able to take off your wheel, after you riveted your chain.

my suggestion is, if you think you will need to take 3 links off, try take off 2 first. put the wheel and the chain back on with master link but do not rivet it.

once they are on, make sure you have proper slack on your chain and check the axle location. if the axle pass the center point of the slot, you might want to take one more link off.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:43 PM   #11
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^
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:01 PM   #12
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any gearing change?
Ya -1 +2
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
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oh..you are right, you do not want push the axle all the way forward to the engine, if you do that, you will not be able to take off your wheel, after you riveted your chain.

my suggestion is, if you think you will need to take 3 links off, try take off 2 first. put the wheel and the chain back on with master link but do not rivet it.

once they are on, make sure you have proper slack on your chain and check the axle location. if the axle pass the center point of the slot, you might want to take one more link off.
Thanks.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:02 PM   #14
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Now does anyone have a chain breaking and riveting tool thought Mt father in law did but he can't find them. May have to go buy.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:06 PM   #15
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i have one, you can borrow it
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:08 PM   #16
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chain breaker: bolt cutter/grinder. especially the bolt cutters, faster than any chain tool out there. ever seen torque? true story
riveting: vice grip and a BB. havent tried it yet but im pretty sure it'll work,
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:09 PM   #17
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You keeping the stock chain? I dunno gsxr tooth counts but going 15/45 from 16/43 on the zx6 I was able to keep the same chain. Rear wheel is pretty far forward- but that just makes it handle better
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:13 PM   #18
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^ Probably has a lot of miles on stock chain. I kept my stock chain when I got new sprockets but it had less than 2k miles
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:13 PM   #19
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i usually use the cordless drill with grinding attachment to grind off the rivet then use the chain tool to push the rivet off the cahin, lastly, use the rivet tool to the rivet
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:17 PM   #20
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^ Probably has a lot of miles on stock chain. I kept my stock chain when I got new sprockets but it had less than 2k miles
Yep. That's the second chain it had 15k on it, its toast. First one had 7k.
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