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Old 10-11-2012, 03:10 AM   #21
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So I rotated the rim and I ruled out that it isn't a bad rotor. It happened on the other rotor as well.
Wondering if I need to switch around the lines at the master cylinder.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:36 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
It was suggested on another forum to let it sit up overnight and re-bleed the MC. It'll let any stray air bubbles travel up.
I recently did this and it worked. Bleed from the top master
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:18 AM   #23
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Unfortunately my ninja does not have a bleeder on the master cylinder. 9
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:18 PM   #24
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first of all, it doesn't matter to the hydraulic brake system is one rotor is thicker than the other. doesn't affect bleeding, or function.
Also, you probably have air on the left side somewhere still. if you dont' have a bleed nipple on the master cylinder, then you'll have to bleed it using the banjo bolt.
i.e. pull lever, hold, crack open banjo bolt ON MASTER CYLINDER. Tighten, and redo it a few times. once NO bubbles pop out, do the outter line/farthest caliper first, then the closer one. BUT, when you do the calipers, FIRST, bleed through the banjo bolt, when no air comes one, THEN, bleed through the bleed nipple. Air pockets at times can get stuck in the corners of bajo bolts and it's miserable.

So, in order, Bleed at master cylinder banjo bolt, caliper no. 1 banjo, caliper no. 1 bleed nipple, caliper no. 2 banjo and then caliper no. 2 bleed nipple.

Good luck! do it manually, not with a speed bleeder.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:44 PM   #25
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I moved around the order of lines where they meet the master cylinder and bled the lines and went for a test drive, it seems this has a huge affect on the brake system.

The instructions were very detailed, but didn't state which side of the bolt the lines should have gone on.

EX:
brakeline

The instructions do state the right line needs to go on the master cylinder first, however It is kind of confusing unless you look at my diagram
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:06 PM   #26
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Glad you got it resolved. I find it odd that it matters which lines go first.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:10 PM   #27
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Try reverse bleeding by forcing fluid into the calipers one at a time then do the manual bleeding.


If you need any more info on how just pm me
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:26 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy View Post
Try reverse bleeding by forcing fluid into the calipers one at a time then do the manual bleeding.


If you need any more info on how just pm me
I understand how to bleed, and I did the injection method, it works well. my issue still seems that the right caliper gets a little hotter then the left, I think thats cause the pads need to bed in though.
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