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Old 07-11-2012, 11:50 PM   #21
dudewhrsmybike
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Keep your wallet (and phones) in a VERY secure place

A zipped up exterior jacket pocket can and will come undone without notice.

A wallet can easily slide out your back pocket as well.
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:47 AM   #22
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"I lack skillz"
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:47 AM   #23
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Group riding, and riding in general

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynjay View Post
I'm a noob, but I'll offer my own thoughts.

When setting up to enter a turn, make sure you are well within the powerband for your ride.

Example: I ride a ninja 250. The usuable powerband is 7000-12000 rpm.
I will try to setup my gearing entering the turn to be 8000-9000 rpm.

This allows plenty of power to accelerate all the way through the turn while maintaining adequate engine breaking to slow down during the turn using engine breaking alone.
Sorry Flynjay but i could'nt pass this by without my 0.02 cents. on a regular easy ride no way is it necessary to be in your power band-8,000 to 9,000 RPM unless you are trying to get around that corner as quick as possible it kinda defeats the whole purpose of this thread. Also about engine braking at high RPM on a curve is not a good idea if you unload the power to rear wheel at high RPM you could break traction on your rear wheel and slide, and without necessary experience you could go down. besides, You should have all your braking done before the curve.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:07 AM   #24
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:14 AM   #25
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adjust or check tire pressure for your riding style/speed

Don't push yourself, 1st get comfortable with a certain turn(S) and practice repeatedly, the speed will catch up and you'll find yourself faster and more confident

Keep your keys at home, all you need is your bike key and your home key, no need to have 20 keys in your ignition, listen to the bike "often"

keep away from obed

Last edited by Lucar; 07-12-2012 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:21 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomzrex View Post
Sorry Flynjay but i could'nt pass this by without my 0.02 cents. on a regular easy ride no way is it necessary to be in your power band-8,000 to 9,000 RPM unless you are trying to get around that corner as quick as possible it kinda defeats the whole purpose of this thread. Also about engine braking at high RPM on a curve is not a good idea if you unload the power to rear wheel at high RPM you could break traction on your rear wheel and slide, and without necessary experience you could go down. besides, You should have all your braking done before the curve.
Yes I know you should have all of your braking and shifting done before the curve, but sometimes (like during the last MH ride) you have to slow down in the curve due to obstacles or people standing in the road helping a downed rider. In that case your only options are (in my order of use) engine breaking with a slow roll-off, rear breaking, or stand the bike up and full front breaks (gradual squeeze).

A simple slow roll off the throttle and you can easly shed 5-10 mph. That can give you time to find a different line to avoid the obstacles.

Also my bike has almost zero engine breaking or acceleration below 7000 so trying to accelerate below that range bogs the engine. When you are only working with 25 peak hp you tend to keep it in the powerband. This may not be applicaple for a SS.

It's always good to be prepared.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:28 AM   #27
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What you guys are describing is being able to have enough RPM to use throttle maintenance.
Exact RPM is dependant on the bike and the ability of the rider.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:31 AM   #28
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Quote:
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What you guys are describing is being able to have enough RPM to use throttle maintenance.
Exact RPM is dependant on the bike and the ability of the rider.
Reason #1 I described what bike I have and the available powerband.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:32 AM   #29
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don't ride behind people with sticky tires...unless you have a radiator guard... trust me and Lucar know!
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Best advice ever!
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:38 PM   #31
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to
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynjay View Post
Yes I know you should have all of your braking and shifting done before the curve, but sometimes (like during the last MH ride) you have to slow down in the curve due to obstacles or people standing in the road helping a downed rider. In that case your only options are (in my order of use) engine breaking with a slow roll-off, rear breaking, or stand the bike up and full front breaks (gradual squeeze).

A simple slow roll off the throttle and you can easly shed 5-10 mph. That can give you time to find a different line to avoid the obstacles.

Also my bike has almost zero engine breaking or acceleration below 7000 so trying to accelerate below that range bogs the engine. When you are only working with 25 peak hp you tend to keep it in the powerband. This may not be applicaple for a SS.

It's always good to be prepared.
Your right obstacles in the road changes everything. And I was'nt trying to chastise you just don't wan't anyone to get hurt. About engine braking I guess i could have worded that differently, senator summed it up pretty good. Just remember that when you climb onto a bigger bike, be careful out there, everyone.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:43 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rykoson View Post
don't ride behind people with sticky tires...unless you have a radiator guard... trust me and Lucar know!
Bingo. Zxalan got me in Fayetteville (sp). Im lucky I didn't eat it in a turn. After the last turn we all stopped to regroup. My radiator was spraying on my front wheel and rotors. I had no front brakes. That will pucker your up.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:48 PM   #33
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Practice, practice, practice.. never stop studying and trying to learn to be a better rider.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:14 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Use turn signals?
Turn off your turn signals
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