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Old 06-29-2012, 04:58 PM   #1
cuong-nutz
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Shell Rotella T6 oil analysis

I sent in my oil to get it tested. $25 for the standard test plus $10 to test the TBN to see how much life is left in the oil. The oil sample is from my ninja 250 which was ran for ~4200 miles for I changed the oil.

I have a lot of aluminum and iron in the oil and the viscosity of the oil has broken down to about that of a 30 weight. I'm going to send in another sample at 3k and see if there's any significant changes.

250oil

If the second analysis doesn't fair well, I might just switch to AMSOIL. or Try the correct weight--10W40 vs 5W40.
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:04 PM   #2
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You fancy huh

Lol
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:09 PM   #3
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Just being cautious as I intend to keep this thing running for as long as it can.
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:21 PM   #4
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I dont know about that. U ride it like its a liter bike lol
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_5.0 View Post
I dont know about that. U ride it like its a liter bike lol
Fo' so'
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:47 PM   #6
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Hmmm
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:00 PM   #7
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hmm..let me know.. I used it once, but went back cause I really didn't know for sure if it would work. people swear by it but I would like to see this result.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:20 PM   #8
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Many swear by it and many have done the analysis with better results
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:42 PM   #9
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Interesting.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_5.0 View Post
I dont know about that. U ride it like its a liter bike lol
Well, I do dog the out of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rykoson View Post
hmm..let me know.. I used it once, but went back cause I really didn't know for sure if it would work. people swear by it but I would like to see this result.
Don't let this oil analysis be the definitive conclusion about usage of the oil. The oil wear is dependent on it's environment/bike and I really run my bike through all it's gears on a daily basis. I still hunt for the fabled 7th gear all the time! LOL. This would explain the oil shearing which has reduced the viscosity down to a 30 weight oil. You must remember that this oil is designed for autos and not bikes and bikes do experience a higher shearing rate than that of autos since the oil is shared through the transmission/clutch so increasing the wear on the oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Many swear by it and many have done the analysis with better results
I haven't done a search to see other oil analysis on bikes yet.

My only guess for the high amount of aluminum and iron is probable from the clutch. Seeing how the viscosity is reduced, I'll have to shorten the oil change interval even though the TBN is still high. IIRC, virgin Rotella T-6 TBN is at 10.5 and my oil was at 6.4.

For those that don't know what the I'm talking about, give these articles a read and become edjumakated:

http://www.sportrider.com/hands_on/h...oil/index.html
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
This would explain the oil shearing which has reduced the viscosity down to a 30 weight oil. You must remember that this oil is designed for autos and not bikes and bikes do experience a higher shearing rate than that of autos since the oil is shared through the transmission/clutch so increasing the wear on the oil.

This reason alone is why I recommend motorcycle specific oil; it's increased shear strength.
You can tell a lot about the performance of an oil by the condition of the main and rod bearings when you disassemble the engine.
In 30 plus years I've seen the insides of more engines than I care to remember.. Most of the ones I've seen that were run with Rotella or other car based oils show pretty high wear. My 2 cente ymmv.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:51 AM   #12
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Motul Ester in the bee and monster is all I use, also or chain cleaning and lube
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
This reason alone is why I recommend motorcycle specific oil; it's increased shear strength.
You can tell a lot about the performance of an oil by the condition of the main and rod bearings when you disassemble the engine.
In 30 plus years I've seen the insides of more engines than I care to remember.. Most of the ones I've seen that were run with Rotella or other car based oils show pretty high wear. My 2 cente ymmv.
Thanks for the expertise Patrick!

....lets see what Cuong comes up with.
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:56 AM   #14
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How many miles on the motor?
Often on new or rebuilt aircraft engines we see much higher initial levels of metal, especially aluminum, in these kinds of analysis which we rely on heavily to monitor engine condition. Often the oil even has a "metal flake" appearance in the filter under bright light for the first 100 or so hours of operation. If it was still breaking in, you should see those numbers drop considerably.
Still, this may prove at least that if you're going to run the T6 in these 9000+ cruising rpm motors, you better change it more often rather than less.
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:00 AM   #15
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Thanks for the articles, good read
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
This reason alone is why I recommend motorcycle specific oil; it's increased shear strength.
You can tell a lot about the performance of an oil by the condition of the main and rod bearings when you disassemble the engine.
In 30 plus years I've seen the insides of more engines than I care to remember.. Most of the ones I've seen that were run with Rotella or other car based oils show pretty high wear. My 2 cente ymmv.
I haven't done the math/pricing but it seems that T6 is still at a good price for a synthetic to use although I'll have to change the oil more frequently instead of extending the intervals. I'll see how it looks at 3k change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasPsyclone View Post
How many miles on the motor?
Often on new or rebuilt aircraft engines we see much higher initial levels of metal, especially aluminum, in these kinds of analysis which we rely on heavily to monitor engine condition. Often the oil even has a "metal flake" appearance in the filter under bright light for the first 100 or so hours of operation. If it was still breaking in, you should see those numbers drop considerably.
Still, this may prove at least that if you're going to run the T6 in these 9000+ cruising rpm motors, you better change it more often rather than less.
I bought the bike brand new and bike had roughly 14,300 mi on it when I did the oil change. I changed the oil at 300, 600, 1000, and switched to T6 at 3000 mi. Prior to T6 I was using Rotella 15W40 for the break-in.
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:56 PM   #17
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Then it was well broken in prior to the analysis.
Definitely pull another sample at 3000. Perhaps even at 1500 without an oil change since you have results that are out of parameters. You seem to be on the right track.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:51 PM   #18
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If any question about performance remains, I would definitely switch to a motorcycle specific oil as was mentioned above. Mobile-1 Synthetic has served me well. $9.99/qt @ Wal-Mart.
I know people always see the need to save money these days, but IMO, going ultra cheap on wear items & consumables (tires/chains/oil and the like) almost always leads to more problems than it solves. My oil change costs around $40. I prefer, however, to look at the .01⅓ cent/mile expense as cheap insurance which has paid off. At 48,000 miles of pretty aggressive riding, I'd say its worth it.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:19 PM   #19
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I had already planned on switching if things don't turn out good in the next test. The bike only holds less than 2 qts do oil changes are cheap. I bought my oil filters in bulk so changes are already cheap.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:12 PM   #20
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I always run rotella T, non synthetic on all the bikes up to 600hp, and never have had results like this on the oil tests. Dunno what gives.

On the flip side, the oil gets changed before 1000 miles if I just street ride my beast. And after every visit to the track, specially of I burnt a clutch.
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