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Old 01-10-2007, 09:04 AM   #41
CarbonJames
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, i really want to get out there and watch/help/learn one of these days. I think right now just isn't the time for me with all thats going on..

Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
Looks good dawg!

February is looking like it's going to be the inagural "how to" month for the glass 'n paint clinic.

If anyone wants to come hang out and watch though, I have one repair job to do before the season starts, and about 6 paint jobs (when Attack ships them to us...).

My schedule is sporatic, so maybe I'll post up in the modifications forum when I do it?
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Old 01-10-2007, 09:07 AM   #42
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:27 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
Be careful with spot putty. Like Brian said, you can make it look tons better by using it, but if you use too much, most of the time, it won't stick.

I use spot putty like a really thick filler primer, and most of it gets sanded off after it FULLY cures. Spot putty can be a blessing and a disappointment all at the same time...
yeah, i've used spot putty at a consumer product paint shop years ago, i know its capabilities as well as its down falls. like you said, i used it on the rock dings on the upper only, and when dried good, i sanded it all away except for what was actually used to fill in a spot. The body def. feels 100x's smoother, but i think maybe with all the bumps and vibrations, it may not hold up that great over time. o-well, it was $200 for the glass and it was well used when i got it so, if i can use it all this year then, i figure i will have gotten my moneys worth out of it..
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:07 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonR1
I went ahead and got some spot putty last night and started on my own glass, it will look tons better if i decide to do a second run with it, it a little time consuming tho, i used the cheaper stuff so that i wouldn't have to mix with the hardener and it would allow me to get more done with minimal loss of putty, i know it is prolly not gonna hold up near as well but, im basically just trying it out to see the difference. It feels much better when you run your fingers across it, much smoother.. hopefully the weekend will provide us with at least one nice day in order for me to get some paint shot on it. Tony gave me some pointers on doing the two colors without using the pinstripes so, I'm gonna try that out and see how it works.

np, i'm glad to be able to contribute.
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Old 01-16-2007, 01:55 PM   #45
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Hey guys,
When sanding down the plastics, do you use a sander or just your hand?
It seems that using your hand only with 200 grit may take some time.
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:03 PM   #46
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i used an orbital sander with 220, the problem is that it leaves swirl marks and will have to be sanded out them selves. i'd get everything i could with a sander and the rest by hand.. a little more work for us PREfessionals but it'll make it easier to get the top coats off. just my .02, tom or tony may have a different approach to this.
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:03 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift E
Hey guys,
When sanding down the plastics, do you use a sander or just your hand?
It seems that using your hand only with 200 grit may take some time.
You only have to ruff it up enough to get the new stuff to stick to it except on really bad spots.
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:12 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
I use a DA sander with 400 grit prior to sealer. If you use 400 grit by hand, it would leave sanding marks, but the DA moves fast enough to keep it smooooth.

Wet sanding by hand, I use 600 grit prior to sealer.

Remember, the paint will only look as good as the prep job.

DA sander!! Thats what i've been tryin to remember. My memory sucks

I used to live with one of these in my hands. :BangHead:

I need to hit the shops for some of these tools
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:18 PM   #49
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i do all my sanding by hand, did it for 12 years, i still remember.
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:25 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfracer-r
I use a DA sander with 400 grit prior to sealer. If you use 400 grit by hand, it would leave sanding marks, but the DA moves fast enough to keep it smooooth.

Wet sanding by hand, I use 600 grit prior to sealer. 200 will definitely give you fits- it is rough, rough stuff.

Besides Swift, that paint job you have on that bike is really good. If I'm not mistaken, I think Blair Grafix did that paint, and it's top-notch!
It's also basecoat/ clearcoat, which will allow you to scuff it with 400 (or so) and paint on top of that if you're doing a cheap-e job.

I wouldn't mess with that paint/ bodywork on your bike unless you're going the full monte and repairing the glass and taking the paint/ graphics all the way down. Getting the stickers off that alone is going to be a hella-chore. The black on that bodywork is vinyl, not paint, so that's going to be an azz-kicker.

Remember, the paint will only look as good as the prep job.


Thanks for the info.

???????????
For the initial sanding what Gritt paper should I use?
400?
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:27 PM   #51
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It depends on what are you trying to do. Are you repairing a section, repainting the whole bike, clear coating?
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:28 PM   #52
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I'll be doing small repairs, repainting the entire bike and maybe clear coat.
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:58 PM   #53
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Fixing the fiberglass on my bike was the easiest part. The prep work prior to sanding is the real chore, I'm still working on mine. I bought a sander from lowes for $29.00 and its perfect for working on farings, but go easy b/c on the lower grit papers it will cut to the fiberglass real quick.

Anyone know how to remove pinholes from the resin after sanding? I applied another very thin coat of epoxy afterward and tried to work them into the holes, but after I sand it seems the old ones are just brought to the surface again. When I prime you can definately see the repair areas, and thats even after wetsanding with 400 grit. Its looks fine from a distance but up close you can really see it.
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Old 01-16-2007, 03:27 PM   #54
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What product(s) do I need to fix the small defects?
I'm going by Lowes today.
The weather is so now is a good time to get started.
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:16 PM   #55
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^ Yes and your work is A+

And thanks for the shopping list
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Last edited by Swift E; 01-16-2007 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:30 PM   #56
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even when taking short cuts because you don't care too much, it's still a lot of work.
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:33 PM   #57
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Dual Action Sander
400 Grit sandpaper
200 Grit sandpaper
Fiberglass material (fabric)
Fiberglass resin
Goo Gone / 3M Adheasive remover / Goof Off / etc...
Gel-Coat Repair

What about the paint (Cheap Rattle Type)
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:29 PM   #58
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^ Come on Guys,,,
I'm about to go shopping
What else do I need?

What rattle paint, primer, flat color, gloss, clear????
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:40 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift E
Dual Action Sander
400 Grit sandpaper
200 Grit sandpaper
Fiberglass material (fabric)
Fiberglass resin
Goo Gone / 3M Adheasive remover / Goof Off / etc...
Gel-Coat Repair

What about the paint (Cheap Rattle Type)
1200 grit
1000 grit
800 grit
400 Grit sandpaper
200 Grit sandpaper
Fiberglass material (fabric)
Fiberglass resin
Goo Gone / 3M Adheasive remover / Goof Off / etc...
Gel-Coat Repair
Laquer thinner for pre spray wipe. tack cloth.

spray paint like i used? auto parts store, HighTemp Enamel Engine spray. don't get the cheap . $5 a can. not a $2 can. Make sure you look at the spray nozzle, you want a nozzle with a horizontal ledge on it, this helps fan the paint when it comes out, if its hor. the spray will come out Vert. and vice versa. you may have to trade nozzles with another color, and get the same clear if thats what you want to do..

after wetsanding and before painting, make sure you wash the glass with soapy water, let it dry, clean it off with the laquer thinner , tack cloth on top of that then you should be ready to spray
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:28 PM   #60
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Now, What colors to paint it....

DE 1601 Ford Blue
DE 1602 Universal White
DE 1604 Universal Gold
DE 1605 Ford Red
DE 1606 Ford Dark Blue
DE 1607 Chevrolet Orange-Red
DE 1608 General Motors Blue
DE 1609 Chevrolet Blue
DE 1610 Pontiac Blue
DE 1611 New Ford Gray
DE 1612 Gray Engine Primer
DE 1613 Gloss Black
DE 1614 Cummins Diesel Gold
DE 1615 Aluminum
DE 1616 Pontiac Blue Metallic
DE 1617 Ford Green
DE 1618 Detroit Diesel Alpine Green
DE 1619 Chrysler Green
DE 1620 Chevrolet Orange
DE 1621 Old Ford Blue
DE 1622 Chrysler Orange
DE 1631 Chrysler Corp. Blue
DE 1632 Chrysler Industrial Red
DE 1634 GM/Chrysler Low Gloss Black
DE 1635 Ford Semi-Gloss Black
DE 1636 Clear
DE 1638 Cummins Beige
DE 1640 Plum Purple
DE 1641 Grabber Green (Lime)
DE 1642 Daytona Yellow
DE 1643 Torque N Teal
DE 1644 Racing Green (Hunter)
DE 1645 Ruby Red
DE 1646 Trophy Blue
DE 1650 Cast Coat Aluminum
DE 1651 Cast Coat Iron
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Last edited by Swift E; 01-16-2007 at 08:58 PM.
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