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Old 05-31-2012, 08:35 AM   #1
Supa Dave
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Dirt bike maintenance?

So I picke up a kx 250 2 stroke a few weeks ago and just want to know wht kind of upkeep/Maintenance u guys do?

How do u clean your filters? How often?

What kind of motor oil do u use? I went to autozone and this fuckwad told me
There was no oil in the motor and that the only oil in the bike is what is mixed in the gas... Said he has been racing all his life and was so sure that there was no oil what so ever!

How often do u have the top end redone?

Any advice would be great! Thanks
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:32 AM   #2
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Pull Seat and remove filter.... I cleaned mine after every ride.

Amsoil Motor Oil

When i raced i did a top end 2 times a yr... Not racing 1 time a year. Very easy on a 2 stroke and cheap to do it.

Clean your chain as well, keep it clean and lubed..

Install Carbon Fiber V Forve Reed Valves, Pro Circuit Pipe, Silencer... Bike should scream.


Also run race fuel mix in it and you will tell a big difference.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Hern5972 View Post
Pull Seat and remove filter.... I cleaned mine after every ride.

Amsoil Motor Oil

When i raced i did a top end 2 times a yr... Not racing 1 time a year. Very easy on a 2 stroke and cheap to do it.

Clean your chain as well, keep it clean and lubed..

Install Carbon Fiber V Forve Reed Valves, Pro Circuit Pipe, Silencer... Bike should scream.


Also run race fuel mix in it and you will tell a big difference.
Bingo. If you clean and oil the filter after every ride, your bike will thank you in the long run. Amsoil synthetic is the and all i use. Keep a couple extra spark plugs handy when you go ride just in case. I changed the oil every other race or every other 2-3 rides. It's quick and easy to do and it's cheap insurance for a longer lasting motor and clutch.

Never mix any leaner than 40:1 ration with your premix. Sounds dumb but i've heard people give bad advice with premix ratios that causes fried top ends. I normally run 36:1 to be on the safe side.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:46 AM   #4
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K-
i forgot to mention the plugs for sure and oil changes... It cheap and easy for sure. I changed mine after every 3 practice days... After every race day...
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:04 AM   #5
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Pretty much have it covered in here, can I come over and smell your exhaust?

Those things are fast as
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:10 AM   #6
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Pretty much have it covered in here, can I come over and smell your exhaust?

Those things are fast as

gotta love the 2 smoke...
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:44 AM   #7
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For the pre-mix, just choose a good quality synthetic and stick with it. Amsoil, Motul (800 or 710), Motorex, they're all good and up to the task for modern 2-strokes.

As far as ratio, it's more important that you are jetted correctly for whatever ratio you are running. I run 60:1 with Motul 710. I used to run Motorex, but wasn't getting a clean burn. After recommendations from others on KTMtalk I tried the Motul 710 and it;s much better. 710 hjas a lower flashpoint than the Motul 800 (and Motorex), so I get a cleaner burn.

If you are going to run lots of MX, I would prob run 40:1 or 50:1 and jet for it. I do more enduro/trail and am not on the pipe as much. I know many riders who go as high as 100:1 with a high quality premix.

For transmission oil/gear oil, you can run ATF Type F fluid, Motor oil (like Rotella T6 or Dino), or Gear oil (like Bel Ray Gear Saver). There are "wonderful stories" about people running all of them just like there are "horror stories" about people using them. It's just like the debate that goes on ad nauseum for motor oil in streetbikes. What's more important that the type is that you change change your gear box oil frequently. I prefer to buy 100% dino Rotella by the gallon. Since mine only uses 700cc of gear oil, it's easy on the wallet.

Piston life is not a definite thing. It depends on you're riding habits and quality of pre-mix. Without abuse (on the pipe constantly) a 250 should be able to go 150-200 hrs between topends. My 300 easily goes 200+ hours on a topend (and that's at a dreaded ratio of 60:1 ). If you do lots of MX, those hour figures will come down. I have a compression tester I bought at Harbor Freight and I just check it periodically to make sure I still have good compression. Also, when I have the pipe off, I peek into the cylinder head for an inspection.

Also, how often you clean your air filter depends on conditions also. If it's dusty, more often cleans are necessary. Cleaning an air filter after every ride isn't necessary. I ride a lot and the guys I trailride with ride more than me. We all check it after every ride, but only clean if it's dirty. When you ride 2+ times a week, cleaning after every ride is not realistic.

PS- The fukwad at Autozone was technically right. There is no "engine oil" in a 2-stroke. There is Pre-mix oil in the fuel and gear oil/motor oil in the transmission. The crank is lubricated by the oil from the pre-mixed fuel.
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Last edited by dhdrider; 05-31-2012 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:57 AM   #8
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I pop the seat and clean & oil the filter after every race weekend or after every 2 motorcross days, depending on dustiness, etc.

I prefer NoToil, they sell cleaning kits that come with the powder mix and oil, as well as rim grease (which I don't use). I use Outlaw Racing Air Filters (made by Pit Posse) and they are outfitted with a nice neoprene rim that really doesn't require the use of rim grease. I've also heard of people using bearing grease in place of the name brand rim grease stuff.

CLEAN & LUBE your chain after every ride....if you're riding multiple loops at the forest, practice, then racing etc. I suggest lubing the chain while at the events as well.

As for Oil in the crank case, I use Rotella oil. MUCH cheaper than Amsoil Gear Oil and does the trick. Did this with my old KX250 and never had an issue...always drained the used oil out of pan into jug and never saw chunks of metal, nor would I find metal on my plug after removal. That said, I'll continue this practice until it fails and changes my mind. Maintenance is the same as air filter....after every race or after every 2 trips to the motocross track.

Any 2 stroke mix intended for 2T motorcyles will do the trick. Castrol, Amsoil, BelRay, they all do the trick...just make sure to mix the correct ratio with your gas.

When you change your tires, chain & sprockets or brake pads, always lube the axles with wheel bearing grease. Even if I don't have the need to dismount tires every 3 or 4 rides, I'll do it anyhow knowing I run my bikes pretty hard and on rigourous trails on occasion.

Also, change your fork oil every once in a while. I try and do mine once a year or when I blow a fork seal. I usually pull the tubes off the bike and send them to a buddy to replace the oil and seals for a small fee.

And Lastly, purchase an hour meter ( go through Pit Posse) to monitor the time on your motor. I replace my top ends every 40-50 hours depending on how it feels.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:05 AM   #9
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We should sticky this thread in the dirt section.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
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.....I replace my top ends every 40-50 hours depending on how it feels...
That's crazy! It's not a 125 ya know.

What does your piston look like after that low amount of hours? What's the compression at?
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdrider View Post
That's crazy! It's not a 125 ya know.

What does your piston look like after that low amount of hours? What's the compression at?
ok, maybe I have let it go to 60 hours on occasion, but.....I'm the type who would rather spend a little up front and know everything is legit rather then blow a top end and possibly mess up the bottom end. Same reason I change my oil in my vehicles every 2,500 miles....oil is cheap, motors are not. Piston usually looks clean, head is usually smooth, thus no need for renickeling or whatever they call it.

60 hours on a top end is an easy yr of riding for me....if not more.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdrider View Post
For the pre-mix, just choose a good quality synthetic and stick with it. Amsoil, Motul (800 or 710), Motorex, they're all good and up to the task for modern 2-strokes.

As far as ratio, it's more important that you are jetted correctly for whatever ratio you are running. I run 60:1 with Motul 710. I used to run Motorex, but wasn't getting a clean burn. After recommendations from others on KTMtalk I tried the Motul 710 and it;s much better. 710 hjas a lower flashpoint than the Motul 800 (and Motorex), so I get a cleaner burn.

If you are going to run lots of MX, I would prob run 40:1 or 50:1 and jet for it. I do more enduro/trail and am not on the pipe as much. I know many riders who go as high as 100:1 with a high quality premix.

For transmission oil/gear oil, you can run ATF Type F fluid, Motor oil (like Rotella T6 or Dino), or Gear oil (like Bel Ray Gear Saver). There are "wonderful stories" about people running all of them just like there are "horror stories" about people using them. It's just like the debate that goes on ad nauseum for motor oil in streetbikes. What's more important that the type is that you change change your gear box oil frequently. I prefer to buy 100% dino Rotella by the gallon. Since mine only uses 700cc of gear oil, it's easy on the wallet.

Piston life is not a definite thing. It depends on you're riding habits and quality of pre-mix. Without abuse (on the pipe constantly) a 250 should be able to go 150-200 hrs between topends. My 300 easily goes 200+ hours on a topend (and that's at a dreaded ratio of 60:1 ). If you do lots of MX, those hour figures will come down. I have a compression tester I bought at Harbor Freight and I just check it periodically to make sure I still have good compression. Also, when I have the pipe off, I peek into the cylinder head for an inspection.

Also, how often you clean your air filter depends on conditions also. If it's dusty, more often cleans are necessary. Cleaning an air filter after every ride isn't necessary. I ride a lot and the guys I trailride with ride more than me. We all check it after every ride, but only clean if it's dirty. When you ride 2+ times a week, cleaning after every ride is not realistic.

PS- The fukwad at Autozone was technically right. There is no "engine oil" in a 2-stroke. There is Pre-mix oil in the fuel and gear oil/motor oil in the transmission. The crank is lubricated by the oil from the pre-mixed fuel.
So do these bikes have a wet clutch like the street bikes?

Btw he said there was no other fluid besides the oil u mix in the gas. What is the fluid in the site glass on the right side case?
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supa Dave View Post
So do these bikes have a wet clutch like the street bikes?

Btw he said there was no other fluid besides the oil u mix in the gas. What is the fluid in the site glass on the right side case?
YES & Gear oil (or Rotella or whatever suits your fancy) is what you see in the sight glass. Plug under the skid plate drains it out and rubber plug on the right side fills it up. Check your owners manual for required amount....site glasses (or fill screws) are nice, but aren't 100% accurate....especially in my Yamaha.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:31 AM   #14
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Excuse my ignorance but there are 2 types of fluid that go into the bike? Correct me if im wrong, the rotella (oil) is what goes in site glass and there is tranny fluid as well?
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Excuse my ignorance but there are 2 types of fluid that go into the bike? Correct me if im wrong, the rotella (oil) is what goes in site glass and there is tranny fluid as well?
yes & no...premix oil gets mixed in with your gas....and then gear oil (BelRay, Amsoil, etc.) (or as your referring to it, tranny oil) goes in the bottom end (aka Gear Box)

OR you can go cheap and use a regular motor oil in place of expensive gear oil . A lot of folks run the Rotella like Jason (DhD) mentioned.

Confused yet? lol
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:01 PM   #16
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It will tell in MM how much oil is needed in the case. Look under or besides the site glass or oil fill cap
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:02 PM   #17
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To add to the top end changing discussion..

I rode and raced my old CR125 every week for 3 years before i changed the first top end. I didn't need to but i did just because. It also took me 4 years to finally start feel the clutch begin to slip.

I cleaned the air filter after pretty much every ride. Used Motul or Amsoil premix and amsoil or motul in the bottom end. Premix at 36:1.

I also factor in Honda reliability as well. But regular maintenance really does go a long way in a 2 stroke.
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:39 PM   #18
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Excuse my ignorance but there are 2 types of fluid that go into the bike? Correct me if im wrong, the rotella (oil) is what goes in site glass and there is tranny fluid as well?
To further add to what was said, in a 2-stroke the engine crank (bottom end) is separated form the transmission by use of a main seal. The transmission fluid on the gear box side does not mingle with the bottom end of the piston. The bottom end of the piston is lubricated by the oil you add to your gas (pre-mix). If it does, you have a blown main seal and it needs fixing. This is a sign of "vanishing" gear/transmission oil. If you have significant transmission/gear oil loss, you either have an exterior gasket leak (which are usually easy to see, like clutch cover) or it's getting by the main seal and is getting burned with the pre-mix.

And yes to answer your quesiton, these have wet clutches. That's why you can pretty much use ATF fluid, gear oil, or any JASO-MA rated oil that doesn't have friction modifiers.
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdrider View Post
That's crazy! It's not a 125 ya know.

What does your piston look like after that low amount of hours? What's the compression at?
well, with after what I believe to be about 60 hours of abuse on my bike, we find this....I'll continue changing pistons every 40-60 hours....
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:44 PM   #20
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How'd the cylinder walls look?
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