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Old 04-07-2012, 08:40 PM   #1
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Geometry out of whack

Went to TWS (Texas World Speedway) again today...I was feeling a lil bit better on my Dorsoduro. Still slow as , I keep telling myself its not SS bike but I still go out and have fun.

Either way I know the last time I was at TWS (Texas World Speedway) the bike just didnt feel right...it was super hard to turn in and it didnt "track" but I wrote it off to me not being use to the bike. I was sitting down today looking at my tires still wondering if it was me or the bike and noticed the tires where not wearing evenly. The front tire had a 1-2" chicken strip while the rear tire was worn to the edges. Im no expert but it didnt look right...took it over to John at SCRC and he suggested to drop the forks down in the front 5mm.

My question is how in the did this bike come from the factory that way? The suspension was set up internally at Motorcycles Unlimited and it felt great but the Geometry was off from the factory. I never had this issue before, are there other bikes out there that come out of whack from the factory?
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:42 PM   #2
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Shot out to JoeyBailas,Henry, MKGSXR and Renzo....good seeing you fools out at the track...some of you fools are getting fast as
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:49 PM   #3
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:52 PM   #4
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:01 PM   #5
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:01 PM   #6
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Ninja 650's come stock with the forks right at the top of the triple tee. In the service manual it states to have them 10mm above the mount. Makes me wonder why they aren't set like that from the factory...
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:06 PM   #7
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Geometry is sometimes a subjective thing.
Symptoms like what you're decscribing; not wanting to turn in/finish a turn and the tire wear you're describing indicate needing to shorten the rake, either by raising the forks in the tree or raising the rear ride height.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:07 PM   #8
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:39 PM   #9
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Didn't MC news have a review saying they had to raise the forks quite a bit?
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:45 PM   #10
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got it, http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/model_eval/2012JanDorso.pdf

Check out the paragraph under suspension.
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Geometry is sometimes a subjective thing.
Symptoms like what you're decscribing; not wanting to turn in/finish a turn and the tire wear you're describing indicate needing to shorten the rake, either by raising the forks in the tree or raising the rear ride height.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StewRat View Post
Didn't MC news have a review saying they had to raise the forks quite a bit?
Yep which means raise the forks in the triple 5mm, right? It looks like we are on the same page.....I'll try doing that this week
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:48 AM   #12
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Patrick what would be ideal, raising the rear or lowering the front? Would raising the rear give me more ground clearance? My pegs are a lil bit low and drag on occasion.
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:57 AM   #13
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Oh also the rear rim is a 6" wheel. Stock tires are 180 which look wider on my bike compared to others. I think I need to go with a 190 rear instead...Any input?
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:04 AM   #14
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The higher the forks are in the triples, the more stable the bike will be, but slower to turn... and the lower they are, the quicker it turns but high speed stability is less, so its all give and take. Raising the rear is similar but different... raising the rear helps finish the corner to a point, when you go too far, it just wants to spin, again, give and take depending on the track and the rider. Never make big adjustments... 5mm at a time is plenty.

Oh and my tard has the same type of tire wear...

Last edited by Hi-Side; 04-08-2012 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Side View Post
The higher the forks are in the triples, the more stable the bike will be, but slower to turn... and the lower they are, the quicker it turns but high speed stability is less, so its all give and take. Raising the rear is similar but different... raising the rear helps finish the corner to a point, when you go too far, it just wants to spin, again, give and take depending on the track and the rider. Never make big adjustments... 5mm at a time is plenty.
Gotcha so it would be wiser with a high TQ twin to lower the front rather raising the rear. I wouldn't want to lose rear traction on this torquey bike.... I guess only thing to really do is play around with it and see how it works out...
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:42 AM   #16
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It would take alot to put it to the point of losing traction... 5 mm at a time... and I also dropped the front of my tard by 10 mm.

Last edited by Hi-Side; 04-08-2012 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:14 PM   #17
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It is common for riders to use all the rear tire while leaving "chicken strips" in the front.

Using all the front tire is usually done from either trail braking, or faster corner entries. When braking and entering you put force on the front tire, and it pretty much collapses and folds over a bit from such force. The harder you enter a corner, the more force is put on the tire against the track, thus using more edge.

I wouldn't be worried about the chicken strips too much up front, I'd be more worried about why the bike isn't allowing you to go faster to use up the necessary traction.

I'd suggest lowering the front some, and as you get faster on the bike and start carrying more entry speed with turning on the brakes harder, you'll probably wanna raise the front back up. Also as stated, don't make huge changes, whatever changes you make be sure to write it down. Just in case it doesn't work out, you'll always know your way back
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:56 PM   #18
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:44 PM   #19
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYRDMAN View Post
Went to TWS (Texas World Speedway) again today...I was feeling a lil bit better on my Dorsoduro.
That was you on the dorso? I was the fat guy on the race plasticed 1st gen RSV. I really like the dorso. If I was in the market for a streetbike, that'd be it.
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