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Old 03-20-2012, 06:52 PM   #1
Thayleal
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2003 SV650s Electrical?

Ive been noticing that sometimes my battery is dead for no explicable reason. I just had the battery replaced because it failed. Is there a way to check the charging system/stator to determine if it is that or a short somewhere. Admitttedly the wiring on this bike is far from perfect as it is a salvage title and has already been repaired once by Motorcycles Unlimited.

There haven't been any starting problems prior to the track day but electrical issues seem to have popped up again now.

I am planning on taking it to HoP for installation of a rear shock so I will probably just add that to the list of things to be checked just wanted something to go on when I have it dropped off.

For the record this is not the one I am selling. So please keep the random bullshit concerning the 2006 sale to a minimum. Thanks everyone in advance .
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:51 AM   #2
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I would rec a draw test.All you need is a voltmeter w/ built in 10amp fuse-even the cheap chinese one's have this.Disconnect the neg cable at the batt.Switch lead ports & set voltmeter to amps.Connect one lead to batt,the other to neg cable.Volt meter will display actual current draw,once the dash resets.This is all done w/ key off.Sv's are normally below .00 amps,so if you see .01 you need to track down a draw.Pulling fuses w/ the voltmeter still hooked up helps to isolate the circuit involved.You could have also gotten a new bad batt as well.Of course ck to see if its charging
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:54 AM   #3
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^this and if all else fails since you said the wiring was bad ebay a new harness there like $40

Edit: Just found one for $21 shipped
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:59 AM   #4
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Sounds like u need to get a harness if it has been repaird and is still haveing problems. I would by the old one off u.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweeney1186 View Post
I would rec a draw test.All you need is a voltmeter w/ built in 10amp fuse-even the cheap chinese one's have this.Disconnect the neg cable at the batt.Switch lead ports & set voltmeter to amps.Connect one lead to batt,the other to neg cable.Volt meter will display actual current draw,once the dash resets.This is all done w/ key off.Sv's are normally below .00 amps,so if you see .01 you need to track down a draw.Pulling fuses w/ the voltmeter still hooked up helps to isolate the circuit involved.You could have also gotten a new bad batt as well.Of course ck to see if its charging
Good call... the battery is charging... I checked that first but I noticed the old one went dead a couple times. I am going to get in the garage tonight and check it out and see if I can't do some of the diagnostics before I take it to the shop so even if I don't repair the wiring myself. (Contrary to popular belief I am pretty good at electrical since I am an EE ... just hate tracking Electrical problems because it sometimes doesn't manifest itself from a cold start. ). I can tell them where to look.


Quote:
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Sounds like u need to get a harness if it has been repaird and is still haveing problems. I would by the old one off u.
This guy thinks I am his personal parts store for his SV haha. I think this is the second or 3rd time he has jumped on something I might replace and be like... Ill buy the old one.

Incidently I think I pitted near you at GSS. I was over by Dinosaur.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thayleal View Post
Admitttedly the wiring on this bike is far from perfect as it is a salvage title and has already been repaired once by Motorcycles Unlimited.
.
Take it back to Motorcycles Unlimited, maybe something was missed.

BTW SV >everything
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.6flash View Post
Take it back to Motorcycles Unlimited, maybe something was missed.

BTW SV >everything
Sarcastic comment.. that I had coming.. hahahaa

I guess I should make it clear that comment was not a shot at Motorcycles Unlimited service. The Motorcycles Unlimited crew solved the issue they set out to solve and I am sure they were not tracking for this issue as it did not seem to exist until after the track days. So this was not a slight at Motorcycles Unlimited service or dedication as they have always treated me fairly and provided excellent parts and service for a fair price.
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:21 PM   #8
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So I did some testing for this... The rectifier works great but theres a .66mA draw with the key off... bad voltage regulator? Leaking?
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:08 PM   #9
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:55 AM   #10
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Just have to isolate the circuit to see what is remaining powered up.One note - it does take a few seconds for the dash to recycle before going back to "sleep" so you must perf the draw test for atleast 10 sec.Volt reg's will not cause a key off draw,prob a sticking closed relay or someone repaired/wired something wrong taping into a batt feed instead of key on
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweeney1186 View Post
Just have to isolate the circuit to see what is remaining powered up.One note - it does take a few seconds for the dash to recycle before going back to "sleep" so you must perf the draw test for atleast 10 sec.Volt reg's will not cause a key off draw,prob a sticking closed relay or someone repaired/wired something wrong taping into a batt feed instead of key on
Interesting... I guess the SV forums lied to me. I am no expert but I read about rectifiers/regulators and how to go about testing both and that was one of the things they said that if there was a draw > 1mA that the Voltage Regulator was faulty. Good to know this is false info. Well I will just go through pulling fuses and checking until I find out what is not turning off. Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:14 AM   #12
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My battery has been giving me trouble and a fella at the svr forum had this to say.

To start:

Check your battery voltage at rest, with the ignition on, while cranking, idling once warm and at 5Krpm. If the battery voltage is 12.5-13V at rest, slowly drops to 12V with the ignition on, 13.5-14+V while idling and 13-15.5V at 5Krpm, then all should be well with the charging system, but you can test the R/R statically as well and the stator to be sure. Make sure your connections to the battery are tight and there is no corrosion present. A good place to start before making any assumptions.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90degree View Post
My battery has been giving me trouble and a fella at the svr forum had this to say.

To start:

Check your battery voltage at rest, with the ignition on, while cranking, idling once warm and at 5Krpm. If the battery voltage is 12.5-13V at rest, slowly drops to 12V with the ignition on, 13.5-14+V while idling and 13-15.5V at 5Krpm, then all should be well with the charging system, but you can test the R/R statically as well and the stator to be sure. Make sure your connections to the battery are tight and there is no corrosion present. A good place to start before making any assumptions.
This is the exact test I performed yesterday. New battery and no corrosion. The charging system passed with flying colors but it is getting a 66mA draw key off...
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:40 PM   #14
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So I pulled each fuse..key off and did a draw test. The draw was the same the entire time so I was not able to isolate which circuit. Ideas?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:33 PM   #15
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Got anything ran straight to the battery such as led lights or anything?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Got anything ran straight to the battery such as led lights or anything?
Not that I am aware of or that I can see. Also a relatively new problem..
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:41 PM   #17
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Start pulling fuses one at a time.
If that doesn't turn up anything check the ignition switch for current leakage when off.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Start pulling fuses one at a time.
If that doesn't turn up anything check the ignition switch for current leakage when off.
Yeah I tried that earlier. I pulled each fuse one by one and verified there was still a current leak. I already verified my charging system works as well. So how do I check the ignition switch itself?
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:25 PM   #19
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So tests performed so there is no confusion

1. Draw Test - Ignition Off -> 66mA draw
2. Check charging system
Procedure roughly goes Ignition off, Ignition On, 5000 RPM load, High Beams 5000RPM load. All voltages seem to fall within acceptable ranges.

3. Check Draw with Ignition off - Pull each fuse one by one... check draw
Consistent draw of 66 mA

Based on research... Voltage Regulator on the rectifier could be the problem but seems to have been ruled out here. Anyone know?

I am assuming if its not that then the ignition switch is leaking current back ... which explains the minute draw... How do I fix that?
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:43 AM   #20
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even tho the reg is doing its job it could still be causing your prob. i know u have more than one sv so swap it ans see if it fixes it
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