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Old 03-14-2012, 07:50 PM   #1
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Valve adjustment

So I opened up my top end before I take her out on our maiden voyage. From what I have read the cams should be facing away from each other on the compression stroke. From the first pic, the exhaust lobe in not completly at 9 o'clock but the intake is at 3 o'clock. So is this messed up from the beginning? The second pic you can see the timing marks that also are not at 9-12 for exhaust and 12-3 for intake. So how can I tell which is correct? Also I did check for clearance and the EX is .007 and .007 while the IN is >.005 and .005. I hope this isn't about to get messy.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:46 PM   #2
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From your photos, if the arrows represent rotation, the intake just closed and the exhaust is preparing to open. Isn't that right for the compression stroke? Here are some photos from my ZX6. Totally different motor - 16 valve four cylinder - but still overhead cams and same principle.

Referring to my photos, the mark on the intake cam (in first photo) should align with the rear edge of the cylinder head, the same mark on the exhaust cam should align with the front edge of the cylinder head, and the crankshaft at TDC for cylinder #1, for proper valve timing. The center photo was taken to show measuring the clearance. Since that is showing the cams for the intake valves on cylinder #1, the crank must be on the exhaust stroke TDC as the intakes will be opening next.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:47 PM   #3
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Yes they should face away. Are you lining up the 2nd timing mark at the stator cover, I believe there are 2 marks if it's anything like my kx. Then one mark on each cam gear should be flush with the top of the head and the other mark should be near 12 o'clock, although in my manual the exhaust cam mark seems to be a little past 12.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:51 PM   #4
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:47 PM   #5
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Do you know what size Allen needed to take off plug to show piston? I will see if i can get those marks exactly flush to head. I have a problem with the engine going through more rotation than needed when turning the crank.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:35 AM   #6
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use a chop stick or dowel in the spark plug hole to find TDC. Rotate around until the chop stick goes up the most. Make sure your cams are pointed outwards, otherwise, you will have to rotate around another 180 degrees.

you should have timing marks on the face of the cams. They should line up with the top of your head with the gasket removed.

There should also be a spec that says how many pins apart the chain/cams should be. This sets your timing. If you haven't done so already, mark your current chain and cam sprockets before you do something and lose timing.

Last edited by hotnanas; 03-15-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:49 AM   #7
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how was it running before you pulled the valve cover?

PDF of manual:
http://www.mediafire.com/?rtmjqie41md

Last edited by hotnanas; 03-15-2012 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:12 AM   #8
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I have only started it so I haven't even put it in gear. Dealership that I bought from said they rode it and was fine. I know nothing on how they are suppose to sound, but it seemed fine to me. I did adjust the Cams and there was definitely some slack needing taken in. I will have to redo that since it needs new shims. I am going to ziptie one cam at a time to keep correct timing while putting in new shims.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:43 AM   #9
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per the manual, your timing 15 pins, looks on. I would need to verify TDC to know if your timing is in sync with flywheel. You look like you are close. If it starts easy, and runs well, you are probably on.

Before you switch shims out, try the stick on the piston technique and remeasure the gap. Your .007 ex and .005 in are within the specs.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:49 AM   #10
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intake might be a bit tight.

i just converted the specs
IN .15mm-.20mm (.006in -.008in)
EX .17mm-.23mm (.007in-.009in)
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:37 AM   #11
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If if was out of time you would definitely know it just from starting and letting it idle and I doubt the dealer would have sold it as is.Also one of the most common symptoms of valves being out of spec is hard starting and backfiring while kicking it.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:02 PM   #12
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Well for me a first time mx'er, I am able to cold start it on the 2nd or 3rd kick. Still need to remind me to go through the whole range of the kick starter.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:03 PM   #13
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When I get home, let me make sure my specs are recorded in mm not inches.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:46 PM   #14
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That sounds about normal. Cold mine takes 1-2 kicks, i usually do one slow kick, then it starts on the next.
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:49 PM   #15
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Just to be clear I know that you check clearance with lobes facing away. But can I have one cam lobe facing straight up, measure that, then have the other cam straight up and measure that. Or will it mess up the measurement?
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:54 PM   #16
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you want to get a measurement when the piston is at TDC and the valves are both closed.

It might be a bit deceptive, but your first picture looked like you were about there. Don't worry so much about where the lobes are actually pointing, but make sure that they are pointing outwards, and not inwards. Worry more about the mark on the flywheel, that the piston is at TDC, and that the marks on your cam are level with the top of the head.

From the manual i linked earlier:
Valve adjustment

Last edited by hotnanas; 03-15-2012 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:04 PM   #17
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My measurements are in inches. The gauge deeper that is the slimmest is .005 in and .127mm. So would you button things up and go or would you shims the intake only?
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:20 PM   #18
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Also, when you put the valve cover on, does the gasket go on the cover or the head before install.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:02 PM   #19
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Well I did decide to put it all back together. Once I take it out a few times I will recheck. But now the bottom of the carb is leaking. Which of these thousands of fuel lines disconnected? thanks.

P.S. a pic of the gauge feeler for the intake. I also did figure out about the gasket.
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:54 AM   #20
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