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Old 11-22-2006, 11:08 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paniro187
+1 on the rotella oil. I use it when i took apart the motor everything looked prestine. Rotella for me.
Nice to know I'm not the only one. I did alot of work in the past at shell research on hwy 6. They have alot of dyno rooms to test oils there. They sink serious money into making quality oil.
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:16 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchdoctor575
Nice to know I'm not the only one. I did alot of work in the past at shell research on hwy 6. They have alot of dyno rooms to test oils there. They sink serious money into making quality oil.
Go to the wera board peopel there swear by it.
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:25 AM   #83
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Some people are simply amazing. If you have no clue what you are doing... Then why not take it by a reputable shop and have them do it for you? And, if you have the attention span to grab a few bits of information while you are there, you could probably do it yourself in the future. Of course, it is your bike and your life... So, Have Fun!
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:33 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paniro187
Go to the wera board peopel there swear by it.

Good stuff, Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2006, 12:20 PM   #85
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witchdoctor, if you can, IM me on "citizentank" its my cellphone if you dont know, Im about to take apart the bike, coudl use some pointers on how to do it, and how to best get the header out
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Old 11-22-2006, 12:51 PM   #86
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Old 11-22-2006, 12:55 PM   #87
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Old 11-22-2006, 02:13 PM   #88
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FYI........Shell makes a Motorcycle specific oil too........about 3.75 a quart.
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Old 11-22-2006, 03:46 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutusTx
FYI........Shell makes a Motorcycle specific oil too........about 3.75 a quart.
i'll look into it. thanks.
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:56 PM   #90
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In my 06 Chevy crew cab, I changed the oil at 1500 to get rid of the new trash with regular oil and then switched to Mobil 1 synthetic at 3000 miles. It now has 22,000 miles on it and I just did an oil change 2 days ago and switched to royal purple synthetic. I hear its some extemely high quality stuff but expensive. Its 7.99 a quart and no matter what, I always use a wix filter.

For the bikes, on the 636 I ran the Motul 5100 and filter. Its not synthetic cause the bike only has 3200 miles on it and Patrick said it doesn't need synthetic until it gets some more miles on it. I change it every 2000-2500 miles. On the zx10, I only have 180 miles on it. I just changed the oil on it to get the new motor trash out of it. ill change it again at 500 and then begin my regular intervals. I gave Patrick do the oil changes on my bikes and I trust him to know what's good and to use it in my bike.

I would like to finally get some 100% credible proof on which oil is best though because this subject is a never ending discussion. The way I see it, as long as you use a quality name brand oil and change it at regularly scheduled intervals, it will be smooth sailing.
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:06 AM   #91
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Edit...

Just noticed I said I use motul 5100 but I think it might be the 5600. I don't know. It whatever Patrick uses at the shop. Motul is good shiz though either way!
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:50 AM   #92
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another oil debate
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Old 05-21-2007, 11:07 PM   #93
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I normally start using synthetic at around 2000 miles. Motul 300V is what I prefer.
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Old 05-21-2007, 11:42 PM   #94
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I've run Honda GN4, Shell Rotella 15-40 dino oil, and Royal Purple Max Cycle oil. My bike shifts better with moto specific oil, I believe.

That said. Oils are certainly different. And different engines respond to them differently. So I can't say one brand is absolutely better than the other. For example, if you are running a Honda V4, you want to stay away from the Rotella 5-40 Synthetic. It's proven to cause problems and extra knocking in the V4s (particularly the Magna variations). Fortunately, us Honda V4s owners have the advantage of Dave Dodge, who has been building and racing those engines since they came out in the 80s.

If you are fortunate to have a veteran engine expert for your bike, you might want to check with them to see which oil runs optimally in your engine -- or at least which oils DON'T run well. :icon_smil

As far as oil filters, I run either the Honda OEM filter or the equivalent size Purolator Pure One filter. I switched to Purolator because the filter is better, costs less, and Honda of Houston will never get any more of my business.

I would not run a Fram, ever. There are a few extensive tests on the Internet where someone has disected all kinds of oil filters. Frams consistently scored low on filtration material and even worse, their anti-drain back device failed allowing all the filtered to go back into the engine whenever it set.
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