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Old 10-12-2011, 10:08 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
I did see a dyno comparison of reg oil vs Royal Purple on Horsepower TV. They showed a 10 hp increase by changing engine oil, diff, and trans to RP. It was a chassis dyno.
on what kinda motor?
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:15 AM   #42
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Dont remember. I think it was a Camaro
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:20 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yumbeef View Post
i just reread post 14. i was thinkig it'd be interesting comparing different oils in the same bike with new filters from the same batch, instead of a set of results from one bike using one type of oil.
that would be interesting, tho it would be a different topic "which oil would be ok in a motorcycle engine?"
But then again, the type of bikes will be a variable.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:26 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Dont remember. I think it was a Camaro
see, on car, the HP from motor and HP on wheel is approximately 20% loss. So there is this 20% space for the mechanic to work with (which is a lot) That is to say, it's easy to gain that 10hp on car motor.

On the other hand, hp loss on bike from motor to wheel is 10% give or take. meaning what this motor is designed to put out is pretty much on the wheel already.
And one oil change is gonna make the engine to put out more..... seriously?

note : oil change should only help gain whaz loss between motor and wheel, but the main output (aka the motor itself) should remain constant unless further modifications are made.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:37 AM   #45
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I know all that . I was just saying
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:40 AM   #46
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Quote:
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I know all that . I was just saying
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:40 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jptshadow View Post
note : oil change should only help gain whaz loss between motor and wheel, but the main output (aka the motor itself) should remain constant unless further modifications are made.
How is that going to work?
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:52 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC View Post
How is that going to work?
I see you point. Sorry, the main out put should be "the program of the motor", not the motor itself.

So if the program is designed to allow the bike to run 150hp, then no matter what you do (changing oil, filter....etc) would only allow to come close to that number, but not exceeding it, unless the program is changed (thaz when the PCIII comes along)
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:08 AM   #49
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I'm running moto oil on the Speed Triple while it is in warranty. I don't give them any excuses if something goes south.

On the Speedmaster I used Rotella for years, changed at 3K interval. Oil pump went out at 45K, ruined the engine. Was it the oil? I don't think so but who knows.

That said, now that I am used to the S3, the SM clutch seems to be slipping or something. It doesn't have the grab of the S3. Could be it needs plates/springs by now, IDK.
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:20 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triumph_S3 View Post
On the Speedmaster I used Rotella for years, changed at 3K interval. Oil pump went out at 45K, ruined the engine. Was it the oil? I don't think so but who knows.
wow, sorry to hear that, but funny thing is you the 2nd owner of Speedmaster that I know having the oil pump went out on them.

Oh well, I'll keep u'all updated on my FZ1, been running Rotella for just over a year.
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:17 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC View Post
A friend of mine with a racing connection says if I switch to moto specif oil that I'll gain at least 10 hp.
*** This only works if you apply the free sticker you get with the bottle ***

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


But seriously, the "best" type of oil for one bike may not be universal to all. The engines of different bikes will operate within different parameters -- things like temperature, pressure, shearing forces etc.

Like cars, what works best for a festiva may not be best for your Firebird. Chances are there's different "best" fluids for your GS500, R1 and Harley.


As for the Rotella T (ahem, T6), I've used it religiously in my Katana. I'm a little more hesitant in the R6. I'd really like to get ahold of some of this infamous Amsoil, but due to time constraints and $$ I'll prob just use more of the Rotella, esp. since I've already got an unopened gallon in the garage.
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:36 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jptshadow View Post
on what kinda motor?
If its the episode I saw it was a new v8 Camaro in combination with a k&n drop in filter that netted 10hp not just the oil alone.
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:11 PM   #53
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I've always used Moto specific oils up until now. But this is my first cheaper bike so I decided to do some actual research first. So here's what I've researched/seen first hand.

Bikes used: 05 r6 and 07 1000rr
Moto specific: used repsol, Mobil 1, amsoil.

Amsoil the bikes ran rough as and shifting was clunky. Repsol was run in the cbr (20w-50 it was instead of the 10w-40 stock) the bike ran pretty smooth but seemed to lug a bit (which makes sense with the heavier oil). Both bikes ran best on Mobil 1 4t synthetic. It was the best combo of smoothness in engine and shifting.

Now I have a 06 f4i I picked up used. Running the rotella t6 after some fairly exhaustive research. It's my first oil change on it and the oil came out fairly dirty so I can't compare it to the Mobil 1 yet but engine runs fine and no slipping with about 1k miles on this change. F4is shifting is always pretty clunky but it seems to be much smoother after the change. I'm going to try Mobil 1 once at the next change to test my suspicions but as skeptical about it as I used to be.

The t6 is actually really good stuff. And it doesn't have friction modifiers which is what all the articles that try to steer people away from car oils are warning about. And also you have to keep in mind that the one caveat about the warning of friction modifiers is in bikes without wet clutch systems car oils are fine to use. It's just an issue of friction modifiers (energy conserving) which make wet clutches prone to slipping. So I don't see a problem. And yes every vehicle reacts to every oil differently so if you don't like the t6 you can always try Mobil 1 suv oil or one of their other "car" oils which don't have the energy conserving on them. But for the price the t6 seems to be a great bargain!
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:44 AM   #54
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I've been thinking about the Rotella in the bike, too.

I only need to change my oil 2X a year, so the money savings aren't a HUGE deal to me.

I will say, the Mobil 1 4T ran better in my bike than the Castrol Syn does. If I don't go back to the Mobil 1, I'll likely give the Rotella T6 a shot- its whats going in my Jeep on the next oil change too.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:04 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroz2866 View Post
Suitable for everything but m/c...... Their not going to stand behind it I'n a m/c... If it was meant for a m/c it would have a m/c were it shows "suitable for"...... I'm done here. Motors are expensive, oils cheap...
My biggest argument, go with what it calls for and find some where else to save money. Any repair will exceed the savings easily.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:46 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jptshadow View Post
see, on car, the HP from motor and HP on wheel is approximately 20% loss. So there is this 20% space for the mechanic to work with (which is a lot) That is to say, it's easy to gain that 10hp on car motor.

On the other hand, hp loss on bike from motor to wheel is 10% give or take. meaning what this motor is designed to put out is pretty much on the wheel already.
And one oil change is gonna make the engine to put out more..... seriously?

note : oil change should only help gain whaz loss between motor and wheel, but the main output (aka the motor itself) should remain constant unless further modifications are made.

Rethink that through.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:09 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddgtomahawk View Post
Rethink that through.
I know there was hole on that statement which is later corrected.

see post #48
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:40 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
I did see a dyno comparison of reg oil vs Royal Purple on Horsepower TV. They showed a 10 hp increase by changing engine oil, diff, and trans to RP. It was a chassis dyno.
Yep, it was HP at the rear wheels so changing transmission, differential and engine oil alone could do that

I believe the main point on the video was the 15-20% (or whatever number it was) savings in gas.
I actually did all that on my bimmer......Don't ask, lets just say my next door neighbor was the state's distributor for RP, so it cost me $40 back then I think. A lot cheaper than the BMW specific syn oils for tranny and diff.

Results: my MPG went from 31 to low 40's on the highway with conservative driving
Results after one fuel tank.......................Everything back to normal, between 31-33MPG depending on wind direction.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:52 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroz2866 View Post
Suitable for everything but m/c...... Their not going to stand behind it I'n a m/c... If it was meant for a m/c it would have a m/c were it shows "suitable for"...... I'm done here. Motors are expensive, oils cheap...
WRONG!!

JASO MA means that is suitable for Motorcycles!!
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jptshadow View Post
I know there was hole on that statement which is later corrected.

see post #48
No still not corrected.
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