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Old 06-23-2011, 07:59 PM   #21
jrfitzny
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I just went to an auto paint place, picked up a quart of base, some reducer, and a hardener, about 80 bucks for the whole deal.

I still have a bunch left over, so a pint might be better.
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houseofpain View Post
sealer is like a thinned out primer which is intended to paint base/clear immediately after being sprayed.

also, paint suppliers will not be able to accurately color match your factory blue. your factory blue is a true candy (3 stage) paint. www.color-rite.com is the only one with a good formula to replicate a lot of the modern factory colors but if sprayed incorrectly it will still be WAY OFF in color.

$86.95 for 1/2 pint of the candy
$86.95 for 1/2 pint of the base

its very expensive to make mistakes in this line of work.
Interesting. The people I've talked to on the kawasaki forums I go to said color-rite's paint matching isnt very good either...

I don't understand why motorcycle manufacturers feel a need to keep their paint codes a secret.
-Cody
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
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if you would like to get them professionally done, my shop is located in spring, and i'd be happy to help. if you plan on giving it a go on your own and need some pointers, feel free to shoot me a pm and i'll try to answer them promptly.

I really wanted to get you to paint my plastics I just got but my extra money is going to fix my bike now since my rodeo on turn 11 at TWS (Texas World Speedway)
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:50 PM   #24
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Some beer and I'm sure Aaron would help you out man. You're making this really hard. His rattle can looks better than some shops "professional" work.

Trust me man.
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:27 AM   #25
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Some beer and I'm sure Aaron would help you out man. You're making this really hard. His rattle can looks better than some shops "professional" work.

Trust me man.
Hey now. I don't want to mess with anyone's way of making money at all. I appreciate the props but I certainly don't want to take away from anyone's wallet.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:54 AM   #26
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Some beer and I'm sure Aaron would help you out man. You're making this really hard. His rattle can looks better than some shops "professional" work.

Trust me man.
I worked at a custom audio shop for 5 years. When customers didn't want to pay for a professional painter, we rattle canned it. I know how it would come out...and truthfully, I'm willing to bet if I rattle canned it, it'd come out smoother than me spraying it. The thing with rattle cans is it'll never be as thick as spraying it. Having said that, we did some pretty sick fiberglass enclosures with nothing but rattle cans...some of them we wet-sanded ALL of the orange-peel out. They came out fantastic.

But, I always like to try and learn new stuff. I've mastered rattle canning...haha. I don't really care if this is going to be harder...at the end of the day, I'll have a little more knowledge than I did before I started, and that's worth the extra time/money/work to me
-Cody
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:21 PM   #27
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:35 PM   #28
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I painted my r6 a few months ago. I used 2 pints and a clear coat
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:37 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Cody,

Best to paint it where the placement of the numbers look good with backgrounds, either white or yellow, and meet CMRA guidelines. More blue, and moving the black to the bottom, looks good to me, like Dustin's bike, or Ty's. More room for stickers, less clutter. LOL. Blocked colors look current. Squares and angles and pinstripes look more 80's / 90's Superbike, to me. Just my opinion...
That's how the bike looks stock. I've had stock for 2.5 years now, I want something different. If it looks retro, it doesn't bother me much. I think I am going to put a silver background on the numbers, but nothing huge like Dustin's, more like this...but substitute the yellow for silver:
How much paint to do a whole bike?

I don't plan on racing anytime soon...and I'm not doubting that if I do want to start racing, the bike will have been wrecked and repainted before then anyway...haha.

Oh, and until people start giving me free products or good deals, the bike will be sticker-less. The only reason there's 'Kawasaki' still on the tank is because it'd under the clear coat :(

As always, thanks for the advice guys. I sincerely appreciate it...and have learned quite a bit!
-Cody
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:55 PM   #30
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rattle can is easier for a do it youselfer BUT!, it is Not solvent resistant. so if you accidently spill some gas or othe solvent it will instantly it up.
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houseofpain View Post
sealer is like a thinned out primer which is intended to paint base/clear immediately after being sprayed.

also, paint suppliers will not be able to accurately color match your factory blue. your factory blue is a true candy (3 stage) paint. www.color-rite.com is the only one with a good formula to replicate a lot of the modern factory colors but if sprayed incorrectly it will still be WAY OFF in color.

$86.95 for 1/2 pint of the candy
$86.95 for 1/2 pint of the base

its very expensive to make mistakes in this line of work.
Thank you for pointing this out by the way! over head in this industry is outragious. plus the cost of the facility and to get rid of the waste material!
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:11 PM   #32
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to get rid of the waste material!
You mean you guys don't have storm drains?
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:06 PM   #33
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ha ha no. 5000 dollar fine for every infraction!
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:24 PM   #34
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just goto Oriley auto parts... they have colors pre-mixed for like 30 bucks a pint i think
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:35 PM   #35
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it's not that hard. the hardest part of painting is the prepping part. Clearing is next.
if you have extra plastic, practice on them first. once you get used to it, go work on yours.

As far as pricing, it all depend on the quality and name brand. you can spend as low as 70 for the whole thing or as high as 500+.
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:41 PM   #36
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Turn your plastic inside-out until you are ready to paint, that way you won't get them so dirty . . . . . . . . . . .
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Old 06-25-2011, 01:07 AM   #37
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The Kawasaki blue is called candy plasma blue I believe...not candy surf blue.
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:13 AM   #38
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my old boss scratched his blue 650r and he said he couldnt find the blue at oreilly so he found out on some forum that it was close enough to either a bmw or audi blue. he showed me the freshly painted area about a week later and i could tell a difference only because he pointed it out and it was just a hair darker. looked like it could have been due to fade not a repaint. I vaguely recall him saying something about plasma in the blue. then again this was 2 years ago.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:04 AM   #39
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Quote:
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The Kawasaki blue is called candy plasma blue I believe...not candy surf blue.
Not the 09's.
-Cody
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:51 PM   #40
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Took the bike by the local Tasco. They do a lot of work for the local Harley Davidson shop that has the same issues...no paint codes. They're going to see on Monday when their suppliers are open if anyone has done this color bike before. If not, I left them my front fairing and they said they'd try their best to get a match for me and would just charge normal price for whatever paint I bought.

I'm hoping they get close!
-Cody
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