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Old 06-21-2011, 08:05 PM   #1
exalted512
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How much paint to do a whole bike?

Looking to paint my track plastics soon. Upper, lower, and tail section all one color. Any idea about how much paint that I'll need?

Thanks!
-Cody
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:58 PM   #2
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Aaronp220 does some custom spray paint jobs that are AMAZING
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:20 PM   #3
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a pint should be enough.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:40 PM   #4
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depends are you using Krylon or duplicolor?
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:07 PM   #5
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It wont be rattle canned if that's what youre asking. At least at this point I dont think it will be...
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:41 PM   #6
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depends on your equipment and experience. also depends on color and brand of paint.

you can get away with as little as 1/4 pint, but you can even end up using well over a pint if you don't have much experience.

if you would like to get them professionally done, my shop is located in spring, and i'd be happy to help. if you plan on giving it a go on your own and need some pointers, feel free to shoot me a pm and i'll try to answer them promptly.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:56 AM   #7
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depends on size of bike and what paint you use. cheaper brands have a lot of binder in them so they don't cover as fast. I.C.A.R. and A.S.E. says to have at least 2 mills of base coat after flash times. also will depend on what color of sealer you use. and how you set up your gun. if you use an hvlp and keep it around 20 pounds of pressure you should be able to cover an average crotch rocket with 1/2 pint. i would get a little more just in case you have mess ups to fix. the other thing is if you buy custom colors like house of kolor or vibrance from ppg it only comes in qts.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:18 PM   #8
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I have 0 experience, but I want to try it myself. I hate paying for people to do stuff that I can do myself (I even mount and balance my own tires) and its track plastics, so they don't have to be perfect.

Since I can't find the paint code for Kawasaki's Candy Surf Blue, I'm taking it to Tasco Auto Color here in Bryan to get them to do a color match. I want to make sure I get enough so everything is from the same 'batch' to eliminate possible fluctuations in color.

I have a harbor break...err, freight HVLP gun
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-h...gun-47016.html
these liners
http://www.harborfreight.com/hvlp-sp...ack-94631.html

I'm almost wonder if I should get 1.5 (or 2 if I can only buy in full pint quantities) just to make sure I have enough.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:39 PM   #9
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Little hint -
If you want you can put some thinner in your gun and spray it on a brown paper bag or cardboard box to check your pattern width. It really shows up. Saves a little paint if you're trying to get by with minimal amount.
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:01 PM   #10
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awesome! If you have any other hints, let me know! I could use 'em.
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:10 PM   #11
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Don't smoke - !!
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:38 PM   #12
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #13
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Aaronp220 does some custom spray paint jobs that are AMAZING
For a clueless dude with a rattle can they're not bad.

under $100 to rattle can a bike with decent results. If I go down I won't be about spending $300 to $600+ on a track bike.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #14
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I was thinking about doing some bad paint job on it but for now I just got it done to get it out of the way.. cost me $150.00 I'll post pictures later.

I would spend about $250.00 to get a bad paint job done later down the road to have some nice plastic when my track experience goes up.

I like to work on my own , but also I LIKE TO PAY TO GET IT DONE RIGHT!! if I got the extra cash and I want something done right then I'll pay someone to do it for me,

I can take all apart and put them back together but when it comes down to electrical problems and paint and little thing like valve adjusment I'll let someone else to do the job, someone that really knows what they are doing.

the best part about doing it your self its the feeling that you get when you're done with it.. that feeling its why I do what I do.. when I pay for something I just like to know that I spend my money right! And that makes me want to go back to the place where I got the work done again..
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Old 06-22-2011, 05:38 PM   #15
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You can even get some of this paint. If it will be for just a track bike.

http://www.paintforcars.com/enamel_paint_kits.html
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:19 AM   #16
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if you go to any certified parts house they can actually put real auto paint in a rattle can for you. it may be easier than trying to use a cheap gun from harbour frieght. especialy if you are lacking experience. the reason i say the harbor frieght gun might be hard is that they have a big fluid tip and a up design for an air horn. it makes for an uneven pattern and could cause striping or modleing. thats way everyone uses them for primer guns. and only surface primer at that. when you start spraying sealer, color, and clear you really want an air horn that blows all the way around the needle so your pattern isn't heavy on the top and bottom but thin in the middle. The reason most painters prefer a smaller fluid needle is that it atomizes the paint better. (breaks it up into smaller droplets) this takes away from a "texture effect" in the base and allows you to be able to spay the clear on smoother.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:03 PM   #17
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Well I knew when I walked into Harbor Freight I wasn't buying a quality gun for $15...at harbor freight...But I really do appreciate the heads up. I'll make sure to practice spraying a little before I get it on the bike. I'm not looking for perfection. If this was my street plastics, I'd take it to a professional. And while I don't want it to turn out like , I'm not terribly concerned with it. In fact, the uglier it is, the less I'll be mad when it gets crashed...haha.

Since I dont have access to photoshop and I had a couple hours with nothing to do one day, I had some fun with painters tape to see what it'd look like and kinda how I wanted to get it painted...came up with this:
IMG 20110601 213956

Will the paint shop need to know what kind of primer was used? I honestly have no idea. It's sharkskinz body work and supposedly ready to paint with a light sand.

The response to this thread has been great. Thanks for all the help in these posts are for the people that have PMed me, I sincerely appreciate it!
-Cody
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Old 06-23-2011, 04:32 PM   #18
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the supply house doesn't need to know what primer you used. just be sure you use a primer meant for automotive applications. alot of times the plastics say ready to paint but you still need to spray sealer before the color. also a good thing to use is an adhesion premotor.
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Old 06-23-2011, 04:47 PM   #19
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What is the sealer?
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:58 PM   #20
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sealer is like a thinned out primer which is intended to paint base/clear immediately after being sprayed.

also, paint suppliers will not be able to accurately color match your factory blue. your factory blue is a true candy (3 stage) paint. www.color-rite.com is the only one with a good formula to replicate a lot of the modern factory colors but if sprayed incorrectly it will still be WAY OFF in color.

$86.95 for 1/2 pint of the candy
$86.95 for 1/2 pint of the base

its very expensive to make mistakes in this line of work.
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