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Old 06-13-2011, 01:13 PM   #21
TomballD
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One Rule of Thumb to avoid confusion is:
If the adjustment screw is located to the rear half of the carb, near the airbox intake, it is the air adjustment screw. Turning the screw IN means that you are letting less air in, which richens the carb with fuel.
If the adjustment screw is located to the front half of the carb (most times directly in front of the carb, under the intake manifold), it is the fuel adjustment screw. Turning that screw OUT means that you are letting more fuel in, which richens the carb with fuel, also.
On the XR/CRF 50 carb, it is an air adjustment screw

Here is a good setting at sea level to 2000 ft on a stocker with a UNI/K&N and the spark arrestor cut off .58 main (stock)
fuel screw 1 turn out
needle in the 3rd (middle) slot
That should work fine 90% of the time.


Basic Carburetor Adjustments:
Carburetor adjustments on your XR50 carburetor are made based on throttle position and not engine speed. There are four basic adjustments that can be easily made on your carburetor; we list them here based on throttle position. These are basic adjustments that can be easily applied based on simple diagnostic techniques.

Idle Adjustment:
By turning the idle screw in or out you can decrease or increase the speed of the idle. The idle screw can either be located on the right or left side of the carburetor (depending on the manufacturer) The idle screw will sometimes have a spring behind it and or a plastic so that you can adjust it by
hand. To achieve an accurate adjustment the engine must be at normal operating temperature. Ten minutes of normal riding should do the trick. The idle speed should be set at around 1700 RPM give or take 100 RPM.

Idle -> 1/4 Throttle €“ air screw and pilot jet:
Off idle to ¼ throttle is monitored by the airscrew and pilot jet. The air screw regulates how much air enters the pilot circuit. If the screw is turned in, it reduces the amount of air and richens the mixture. If it is turned out, it opens the passage more and allows more air into the circuit that results in a leaner mixture. If you have to turn the air screw out more than 2 turns to get good performance you need the next size smaller pilot jet.
Air screw turned in = RICHER
Air screw turned out = LEANER

1/8 -> 3/4 Throttle €“ jet needle and needle jet:
The jet needle is the most effective component in this range. The jet needle is a long tapered rod that controls how much fuel can be drawn through the carburetor venturi. The thinner the taper the richer the mixture. The needle jet is where the jet needle slides. The needle jet and jet needle work together
to control the fuel flow between the 1/8 and ¾ throttle opening range. Most of the tuning is done with the jet needle, the needle jet rarely needs to be changed. The jet needle has grooves cut into the top.A clip goes into one of these grooves and holds the needle from falling or moving from the slide. The
clip position can be adjusted to make the engine run richer or leaner.
Jet Needle Clip UP = LEANER
Jet Needle Clip Down = RICHER

1/4 -> Full Throttle €“ main jet:
The main jet is located under the float bowl in the middle of the floats. Sometimes the main jet will have a plastic shroud around it called a €œjet baffle€? The main jet comes into play as the throttle opens
up past ¾ throttle. At ¾-full throttle when the jet needle is pulled far enough out of the needle jet the size of the hole in the main jet begins to regulate fuel flow. The bigger the number on the main jet the
bigger the hole. The bigger the hole the more fuel that can flow which results in a richer mixture.
Main Jet = Bigger the number, bigger the hole, RICHER the mixture.
Main Jet = Smaller the number, smaller the hole, LEANER the mixture.

Jetting Considerations:
Air temperature, altitude, and humidity all affect the jetting and how your bike will run.

Air Temperature:
When the temperature goes up the air density decreases, thus you have less air available for combustion and your air fuel ratio becomes richer. When the air temperature goes down the air density goes up and your engine runs leaner.
Air Temp High = Less Air and a richer mixture
Air Temp Low = More Air and a leaner mixture

What do I do if the air temp is higher than normal?
Air screw turned out = LEANER
Jet Needle Clip UP = LEANER
Main Jet = Smaller the number, smaller the hole, LEANER the mixture.
What do I Do if the air temp is lower than normal?
Air screw turned in = RICHER
Jet Needle Clip Down = RICHER
Main Jet = Bigger the number, bigger the hole, RICHER the mixture.

Altitude:
The higher the altitude the less dense the air becomes, hence a richer mixture. The lower the altitudethe more dense the air and the leaner the mixture.
High Altitude =Less dense air so you will want lean the mixture if you normally ride at a lower altitude.
Low Altitude = More dense air, so you will want to richen up the mixture if you normally ride at a higher
altitude.

What do I do if I normally ride at 5000 feet and I go down to sea level to race?
Air screw turned in = RICHER
Jet Needle Clip Down = RICHER
Main Jet = Bigger the number, bigger the hole, RICHER the mixture.

Humidity:
When the humidity in the air increases the air-fuel mixture becomes richer so you should lean out the mixture. What do I do if I normally race in dry air conditions (like Arizona) and I go to a very humid climate torace (like Florida)?
Air screw turned out = LEANER
Jet Needle Clip UP = LEANER
Main Jet = Smaller the number, smaller the hole, LEANER the mixture.

Throttle Position:
Idle Set at 1700 RPM + or €“ 100 RPM
Idle -> 1/4 Air screw Turn in for Richer out for Leaner
1/4 -> 3/4 Needle Jet Clip up =Leaner
Needle Clip Down = Richer
3/4 -> Full Main Jet (bigger the number richer the mixture)

Conditions:
Air Temperature High = (less air so you have lean out the mixture)
Air Temperature Low = (more air so you have to richen the mixture)
Altitude High = (lean the mixture)
Altitude Low = (Richen the mixture)
Humidity High = (Lean out the mixture)
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:44 PM   #22
mekrew
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ya try 1 at a time
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:06 PM   #23
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ok, well I moved it two down on the clip, cause I did it before anyone responded. It runs a whole lot better, doesn't bog anymore but it sounds like it has fire crackers in the motor at the top of 2nd, and top of 3rd. what does that mean?

Needle is 1 from the bottom, air screw is at half a turn out, and I adjusted the idle accordingly.

Spark plug hasn't changed, still looks the same. I ran it 1st-top of 3rd about 4-5 times down my road.
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:14 PM   #24
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not sure what that noise could be. i would try middle notch and see if that is the sweet spot, if not go back down 1
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:39 PM   #25
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Trial and error will get you there
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Old 06-13-2011, 05:52 PM   #26
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ok, just to be a rebel...I went down to the last clip on the needle, and only turned the air screw half way out from set. It runs even better now, but still has a rattle at the very tip top of 3rd only. I'm guessing its pre-detonation. So I'm going to go up to a #60 jet to be safe, and move the needle back up to the middle or 2nd from top.
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