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Old 06-10-2011, 08:19 PM   #1
TrevorC
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2001 XR50 Tuning help?

anyone near this area? I'm in Pearland by the high school (77584)

I'm a noob at tuning / adjusting carbs, I can throw someone 10-15 bucks for gas. don't have a way to transport the bike.

I took the carb apart and cleaned it, now it runs with the choke off but it seems like its detonating up top...
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:53 AM   #2
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pulled the spark plug and its grayish / white. I went ahead and bought a new one, the end was bent where it connected to the wire.
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Old 06-11-2011, 12:19 PM   #3
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You might consider posting pics of plug tip.
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:57 PM   #4
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Ok, I took a pic of the new one after about an hour 1/2 to 2hrs of run time. It won't even pull up in 2nd gear when bouncing it and yanking up on the bars / sliding back on the seat simultaneously. It's running like poo and bogs out mid 2nd and top of 3rd sounds bad. :(

2001 XR50 Tuning help?
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:08 PM   #5
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did u mess with the float level or make sure the pilot doesnt have anything stuck in it

if it only runs on choke that is problem #1 to tackle i believe. Sounds like clogged main
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mekrew View Post
did u mess with the float level or make sure the pilot doesnt have anything stuck in it

if it only runs on choke that is problem #1 to tackle i believe. Sounds like clogged main
I didn't mess with the float at all besides cleaning it, I was able to shoot carb cleaner through the main and pilot jets no problem. It runs with the choke off, but bogs in mid 2nd and top of third. It also takes awhile to idle back down after riding it. I'm not sure what's up with it....I hate carbs lol
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:41 PM   #7
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did it run before all this ?

Might have to mess with the clip on the needle
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:01 PM   #8
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make sure you dont have a intake leak. spray carb clean around the intake boot while its running. if it revs up you have a leak
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:20 PM   #9
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did it run before all this ?

Might have to mess with the clip on the needle
yeah, i mean when i bought it from a member on here, it ran at half choke, I didn't even notice it was set at half choke the first day when I purchased it.

I saw it, and then turned it off....and it wouldn't run at all after that, so I figured it was a dirty carb. Took it all apart, cleaned it and it runs with the choke completely off now, but does the above like I was saying now....seems like its lean from looking at the plug.

My buddy was telling me since it has an exhaust system, I may need to upgrade to a #60 or #62 main jet instead of the stock #58? Is there anyone in the pearland area that stocks these, or can order it for me? or if I can order it online, that would be good too. It's a 2001 Honda XR50, stock carb.
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:38 PM   #10
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i would mess with the needle clip then the a/f phillips screw 1st
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:31 AM   #11
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What carb and jets do you have?

Needle clip is where?

A/F is how many turns out?
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:31 AM   #12
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What carb and jets do you have?

Needle clip is where?

A/F is how many turns out?

needle clip, not sure? someone was telling me about adjusting this....but I have no idea how.

A/F (middle flat head bronze screw) is only turned out 1

carb is stock, jetting is stock I assume....I tried looking at it when I was cleaning it and didn't see a number identifier on the main jet though.
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:35 AM   #13
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Here is some old school feedback

1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.
Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.

2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.

3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.

4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....

5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.
Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...
When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.


If i have some time this week im here in pearland i will try and swing by and help u out
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mekrew View Post
Here is some old school feedback

1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.
Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.

2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.

3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.

4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....

5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.
Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...
When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.


If i have some time this week im here in pearland i will try and swing by and help u out
This. Main should have stamp on it.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:30 AM   #15
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If it has an exhaust on it and it was running at half choke I would think you need to move the clip down one notch to compensate. Does it have an aftermarket air filter? Tuning on these little carbs is a pain in the . Once you get the needle clip set right the fine tuning comes in with the AF screw. The clip on the needle only takes about 2 minutes to adjust btw.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:47 AM   #16
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If it has an exhaust on it and it was running at half choke I would think you need to move the clip down one notch to compensate. Does it have an aftermarket air filter? Tuning on these little carbs is a pain in the . Once you get the needle clip set right the fine tuning comes in with the AF screw. The clip on the needle only takes about 2 minutes to adjust btw.
Do you know of a site with pictures on how to adjust it? I'm not sure what part you are talking about. (the needle?)
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:55 AM   #17
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Oh yeah, and the air filter is stock, but it doesn't close up right, the black part that funnels down into a smaller tube is loose / broken. It just kind of sits on there. It's snugged up real good on the carb end though.
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:36 PM   #18
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remove the throttle cable from the carb ... remove that spring and the slide. You will see the little C-clip we are talking about...

DONT LOSE THIS !!
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:00 PM   #19
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Ok, I have it apart...here is where it sits now. Should I move it all the way down or just like two spots?

2001 XR50 Tuning help?
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:10 PM   #20
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just one click at a time, 2 makes a big difference, you might have to do this several times. The key is to have it together, let the bike warm up well, then run it in 2 and 3 gears from closed throttle all the way to wide open throttle. When it starts sputtering or dying you will be able to tell if you are getting closer to it running better

I also have some tuning tips, let me search for them right quick like
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