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Old 04-06-2011, 12:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Higham View Post
You also look like a dumbass driving down the street in full tuck at 30 mph.
I saw one of HPD finest in this position yesterday..with full windscren :P

As for the testing with hypermiling, it is something I would want to try (both cage, and bike) but.

1. Bike won't be rideable for a while, as I am slowly rebuilding it.

2. My van is power steering, and power brakes. Going to assume here that would be a lot more difficult, coasting/navigating sans power. :P

For those attempting to try it, thx for result, and input. (Especially) on the bikes. As noted, there are big differences with coefficients,weight and such. That's why I wondered how much of a difference can it be between let's say

-fuel injected large/heavy cruiser
-carbed cruiser


FI minimalist sportbike (say ninja 250)
Carbed ninja 250

Or just seeing what the difference is between a track day, then a (well excercized) hypermiling day, for the same machine..
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Higham View Post
It gets hot in Texas what do you expect? Plus we all know the ladies love a nice tan buttocks on their men!
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:22 PM   #23
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Sounds like you will wear out parts like the starter and clutch sooner to save a minimal amount of gas as well as risk your . I think it will use more gas to start it than it would to run for the little time you kill it.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:58 PM   #24
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I tried hypermiling; Cliff's notes: not worth it.

Bike; my brand new VT600 (Honda shadow). No windscreen.
I tried:
1) +5 to -10 of the speed limit pulse/coast in the sticks between the causeway and nasa.
2) Restart was with popping clutch.
3) Shut off at each of my four lights if red.
4) drafting any slow truck (pickups have a surprising amount of disturbed air)
5) leaving massive amounts of space in heavy traffic so I rarely had to use the brakes (this really cagers off, and gets people pulling in on you a lot more).
6) full tuck on the cruiser at anything over 45 unless drafting (appearances have really not been a care for me)
7) putting my legs on my front turn signals or passenger peg to reduce frontal area.
8) cruising at -5 mph in normal traffic (far right lane of course)
9) glacially slow acceleration

All of this served up the following results:

1) best run in Houston rush hour from Galveston to the med center =73mpg
2) lots of off drivers
3) I was off at going so slow
4) I was annoyed at having to restart
5) I was worried about dieing when my engine was off

Conclusion: I decided that 58 mpg at 65 - 70 mph with WOT acceleration was just fine and dandy. In case you don't have a calculator handy that result is a bit over 25% increase in gas mileage. I ride +25K miles a year so that would be a significant savings, but I feel not worth my sanity or life.

Originally Posted by sandbarmark View Post
If you were wanting to hypermile a bike I think it would be a lot harder than in a car to get decent results.

One of the biggest gains with automotive hypermiling is using the coasting technique where you pick two target speeds (maybe one that is 10mph above and another 10mph below the speed limit), accelerating smoothly to the upper target speed, shifting to neutral, turning off the vehicle, and coasting down to the lower target speed. Once you reach that lower target, you start the vehicle up again, wash, rinse, repeat.

This works well in cars where the cD (coefficient of friction) is lower compared to a bike. Also, with cars weighing significantly more than a bike, the inertial energy of the car will make it easier to cut through the air as there is more mass thus more storable energy.

Since a bike weighs less there is less inertial energy and the friction caused by the air will slow you down a lot quicker. Going from 80mph to 60mph without the brakes happens a lot quicker on a motorcycle than it will in a mid-sized sedan or even a compact car.

So, even though you may see increases in fuel consumption, the percentage of that increase will be much smaller than you would see in a car.
True. My pulse/coast cycle felt really quick.

Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Sounds like you will wear out parts like the starter and clutch sooner to save a minimal amount of gas as well as risk your . I think it will use more gas to start it than it would to run for the little time you kill it.
Wear is significantly increased, but popping the clutch to restart from a pulse/glide does save gas.

Hoped this helps.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:17 PM   #25
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:05 AM   #26
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I'm too lazy to do all this. I dunno, just seems like a whole lot of extra work when driving/riding.
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:04 AM   #27
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going back and forth on Wetsheimer from HW6 to almost downtown I get about 52mpg. Highway riding at 65-70 gives me the same. thats on a 650 v-twin
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