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Old 04-06-2011, 11:34 AM   #1
GAU-8
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hypermiling

Have any of you tried hypermiling on the bike? (Not just a car) just curious to see what kind of mileage carbed, and FI bikes get, doing this. Most likely beneficial to the biker commuters.

I just recently found out about this. Basically its very judicious use of braking, throttle, and turning the bike OFF, whenever you think you arre about to idle, or coming to a stop.etc etc.

Some CNN video on youtube has a honda driver (cage) getting more than double his 20 mpg range. (20 + mpg, can't remember exactly)

Any commuters interested in placing results?
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:37 AM   #2
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Just grab hold of an 18 wheeler, put it in neutral and shut off the engine
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:37 AM   #3
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Sounds reasonable in a rural setting. Sounds dangerous in a city setting. . .good way to get ran over in busy traffic.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:39 AM   #4
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I did it in my Mustang during Hurricane Rita on the way to San Antonio. It was a 9 hour drive but I did it on one tank of gas. There was people running out all around me. I wouldn't do it everyday.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:41 AM   #5
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i will read this guide on hyper miling, i will take my SV and only use it for commuting, and ill tell you what the change is, if your interested. I am always down to try things out and produce results.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:45 AM   #6
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I wouldnt suggest doing it. If your stopped at a light and the person isn't stopping behind you what are you gonna do?
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:47 AM   #7
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If you were wanting to hypermile a bike I think it would be a lot harder than in a car to get decent results.

One of the biggest gains with automotive hypermiling is using the coasting technique where you pick two target speeds (maybe one that is 10mph above and another 10mph below the speed limit), accelerating smoothly to the upper target speed, shifting to neutral, turning off the vehicle, and coasting down to the lower target speed. Once you reach that lower target, you start the vehicle up again, wash, rinse, repeat.

This works well in cars where the cD (coefficient of friction) is lower compared to a bike. Also, with cars weighing significantly more than a bike, the inertial energy of the car will make it easier to cut through the air as there is more mass thus more storable energy.

Since a bike weighs less there is less inertial energy and the friction caused by the air will slow you down a lot quicker. Going from 80mph to 60mph without the brakes happens a lot quicker on a motorcycle than it will in a mid-sized sedan or even a compact car.

So, even though you may see increases in fuel consumption, the percentage of that increase will be much smaller than you would see in a car.

Last edited by sandbarmark; 04-06-2011 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:48 AM   #8
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I wouldnt suggest doing it. If your stopped at a light and the person isn't stopping behind you what are you gonna do?
If i am just commuting, i dont hit very many lights, maybe 2 to work and 2 back. When i commute, its VERY early in the morning, and before a lot of traffic in ther afternoon.

I mean if i am stopped at a light, and there is traffic crossing right in front of me and the person behind me is not stopping, what am i going to do anyway?
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
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If you were wanting to hypermile a bike I think it would be a lot harder than in a car to get decent results.

One of the biggest gains with automotive hypermiling is using the coasting technique where you pick two target speeds (maybe one that is 10mph above and another 10mph below the speed limit), accelerating smoothly to the upper target speed, shifting to neutral, turning off the vehicle, and coasting down to the lower target speed. Once you reach that lower target, you start the vehicle up again, wash, rinse, repeat.

This works well in cars where the cD (coefficient of friction) is lower compared to a bike. Also, with cars weighing significantly more than a bike the inertia of the car will cut through the air easier as there is more mass thus more storable energy.

Since a bike weighs less there is less inertial energy and the friction caused by the air will slow you down a lot quicker. Going from 80mph to 60mph without the brakes happens a lot quicker on a motorcycle than it will in a mid-sized sedan or even a compact car.

So, even though you may see increases in fuel consumption, they percentage of that increase will be much smaller than you would see in a car.

I agree 100% , but OP wanted to see result on a bike. So i offered a kind service. I can do it in my truck or my car if you want to see results that way.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
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If i am just commuting, i dont hit very many lights, maybe 2 to work and 2 back. When i commute, its VERY early in the morning, and before a lot of traffic in ther afternoon.

I mean if i am stopped at a light, and there is traffic crossing right in front of me and the person behind me is not stopping, what am i going to do anyway?
Okay then picture this senario. There is a car right behind you and a car next to you. Your in coast mode with the engine shut off. Car next to you suddenly decides to change lanes forcing you into on coming traffic. What do you do then?
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:52 AM   #11
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Okay then picture this senario. There is a car right behind you and a car next to you. Your in coast mode with the engine shut off. Car next to you suddenly decides to change lanes forcing you into on coming traffic. What do you do then?
Lane split, brother. That's an out I always take
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:55 AM   #12
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:55 AM   #13
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Lane split, brother. That's an out I always take
Okay cool. Let me know how the gas mileage is.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:56 AM   #14
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Here is some motorcycle hypermiling data if you are interested...

Clean MPG Motorcycle Mileage Table
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:00 PM   #15
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Another big aprt of hypermiling is "timing" the lights. If you see a stale green, pop it in neutral and roll, and hopefully by the time you get to it it would have cycled from red back to green.

On a bike the big thing will be aerodynamics. Stick to posted speed limits and stay in a full tuck. Tape up the front end, lose the loose clothing, etc etc. Small changes, but I can see them making a difference over a period of time.
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:04 PM   #16
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Another big aprt of hypermiling is "timing" the lights. If you see a stale green, pop it in neutral and roll, and hopefully by the time you get to it it would have cycled from red back to green.

On a bike the big thing will be aerodynamics. Stick to posted speed limits and stay in a full tuck. Tape up the front end, lose the loose clothing, etc etc. Small changes, but I can see them making a difference over a period of time.
Best advice when it comes to motorcycle mileage. If you tuck, you reduce the frontal area of the bike, thus reducing the cD. If your helmet and chest are about the same frontal area as the front of the bike, then you remove that area from the equation, you will have a of a lot less air restriction.
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:13 PM   #17
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Best advice when it comes to motorcycle mileage. If you tuck, you reduce the frontal area of the bike, thus reducing the cD. If your helmet and chest are about the same frontal area as the front of the bike, then you remove that area from the equation, you will have a of a lot less air restriction.
You also look like a dumbass driving down the street in full tuck at 30 mph.
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:19 PM   #18
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My DRZ SM's 52 mpg looks terrible compared to that list. Hm. Maybe I'll try some tricks to bring it up..
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:44 PM   #19
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You also look like a dumbass driving down the street in full tuck at 30 mph.
Haters gonna hate!

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(PS- I even feel stupid in a tuck on my naked 'fighter @ 80 MPH!)
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:51 PM   #20
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(PS- I even feel stupid in a tuck naked on my 'fighter @ 80 MPH!)
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