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Old 03-21-2011, 09:58 AM   #1
hotnanas
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Oil Pan Threads stripped/Cracked - Seeking Help/Advice

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Old 03-21-2011, 10:04 AM   #2
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If you could get behind it, I would use a bulkhead bushing. If you prefer not to take off, find a reducer bushing slightly larger than the threads. Drill, tap insert bushing with JB Weld on the treads, let dry well. Then just insert the appropriate sized plug for draining.

Other option is to have a collar welded on.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:07 AM   #3
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unfortunately, this drain plug is installed in the engine case, and not a removable oil pan. I think getting behind it without a complete disassemble would be tough. I could be wrong.

will look into those other options as well. Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:13 PM   #4
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Look for a rubber expansion plug with a nut on one side, kind of like a boat plug.

Clean the damaged pan real good with some brake clean, push the rubber plug in place and tighten the nut.

I did this on a car once and never had an issue.

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Old 03-21-2011, 02:52 PM   #5
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:55 PM   #6
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Does the bolt head go in the pan and then tighten the nut? So the picture is upside down from it's application? Seems simple enough to try before splitting cases for sure.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:00 PM   #7
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Only one way to do it right. Easy fix, well, when the cases are split, anyway.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:03 PM   #8
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:14 PM   #9
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I'm sure the oil would eat away at that rubber compound though, especially with the how hot it gets. I'm not sure I would want my engine running some sort of polymer rubber and oil compound ever.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:18 PM   #10
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The rubber plug idea has merit, as long as the rubber is oil/temp compatible. Seems like it would be a good idea to remove the remaining threads so the plug has a smooth surface to seal against.
If it doesn't work, you could still save the case by splitting and rewelding...
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anatram View Post
Look for a rubber expansion plug with a nut on one side, kind of like a boat plug.

Clean the damaged pan real good with some brake clean, push the rubber plug in place and tighten the nut.

I did this on a car once and never had an issue.

[URL="http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//740/full/89014938_rnb_02608_pri_detl.jpg[/URL]
I have had great success with these in BOTH oil and freeze plug applications on my vehicles. I would definitely remove and replace them at the beginning of every riding season. If you're an all-year round rider like me, then inspect every 3mo and replace twice a year.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer997 View Post
Only one way to do it right. Easy fix, well, when the cases are split, anyway.
Linz...I've settled with the fact that I will be splitting the cases...in fact, before I posted this thread, I figured that would be the best thing.....so...

how would you repair it? have material added, then drilled/tapped? would this be some metal putty stuff or actual aluminum?

Hopefully I can locate someone that will let me borrow the proper tool to split it...but I'm not opposed to ordering that either.

I have priced new cases at about $400...just not certain if while I am in there should I got ahead and swap crank, bearings, and more.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotnanas View Post
Linz...I've settled with the fact that I will be splitting the cases...in fact, before I posted this thread, I figured that would be the best thing.....so...

how would you repair it? have material added, then drilled/tapped? would this be some metal putty stuff or actual aluminum?

Hopefully I can locate someone that will let me borrow the proper tool to split it...but I'm not opposed to ordering that either.

I have priced new cases at about $400...just not certain if while I am in there should I got ahead and swap crank, bearings, and more.
Turn an aluminum blank on a lathe. Drill and tap the center of the blank for the drain plug. Prepare the case half by die-grinding out the old plug thread area. Fit the newly machined and threaded plug blank into/onto the case. Weld it up. Done.

I can recommend a guy to do this for you, but he's on the SE side. Kerry Rea at Rea Machine. 713-944-4888. I used to race with him back in the 90s. He understands this stuff. Tell him I sent you.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Turn an aluminum blank on a lathe. Drill and tap the center of the blank for the drain plug. Prepare the case half by die-grinding out the old plug thread area. Fit the newly machined and threaded plug blank into/onto the case. Weld it up. Done.

I can recommend a guy to do this for you, but he's on the SE side. Kerry Rea at Rea Machine. 713-944-4888. I used to race with him back in the 90s. He understands this stuff. Tell him I sent you.
this is the info I was after. You are the man

I will get after it tomorrow night probably. I am going to build an actual workbench tonight so I can weld up an engine stand for this motor. I think it might spend a good amount of time between the frame and a work bench.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:42 PM   #15
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you could easily weld a threaded tube (similar idea as Linz) to the outside of the case. There is a plus side and a down side, though. Plus side is there would be absolutely no chance of it being welded crooked and the sealing washer on the bolt not being able to seal against the case. Down side is that it would hang down about 1/2" farther down, so you would have to be very careful not to snag it on trees or rocks. Are you running a skid plate? Because if so, the fact that it hangs down wouldn't be an issue. Also American HeliArc does very nice work, and is a helluva lot closer to you. 290/pinemont area.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:08 PM   #16
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just buy an exhaust bung/plug and get it welded on the outside...

alex prob has everything u need mang...
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:36 PM   #17
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...in that case, Henrizzle, I already have everything minus the TIG...my welder is not setup for aluminum and I suck with steel anyway.

Scotty, this isn't covered with a skid plate.

My current options are
1. repair from the inside and
2. new cases.

I will have to find out how much one would charge to repair it before I go ahead and order new cases.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
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just buy an exhaust bung/plug and get it welded on the outside...

alex prob has everything u need mang...
i was gonna suggest that, but you'd prolly have a pretty hard time finding an aluminum o2 sensor bung..
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:14 PM   #19
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You could certainly weld to the bottom, but I'd be careful. One big whack with a root or log, and you're back to the problem you have now. Make sure you cover it well if you extend below the case instead of into it.

Agreed that a aluminum bung would work, if you could find one and they aren't too big and obtrusive. Nothing says you couldn't make that aluminum blank and weld it to the outside of the case, either, sort of what what Scott suggested. The thing doesn't have to be huge, just have enough threads to do the job, which is going to be about 1/2 inch or so. Remember ground clearance. I'd safety wire when I was done no matter which fix you go with.
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:48 PM   #20
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option 3: weld it shut and drain the oil through the clutch cover...anyone know a welder that can do this as well? I think I may go this route for a temporary budget fix.
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