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Old 01-14-2011, 08:17 PM   #1
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Liter Track Bike

One of these days I would like to make the transition from the road to the track. But I'm unwilling to turn my R1 into a full time track bike at this time. I want to ease myself into it. For those in the know, how much can I expect to pay for a liter track bike? Preferably a R1? Don't care about the looks, just so long as it runs well and will last long enough to get my moneys worth.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:26 PM   #2
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Anywhere from 3500 to 9000 depending on year and trick bits.

Buy an SV650. A litre bike is overkill. Most racers go faster on a 600 than a 1000. Corner speed is where its at......
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:57 PM   #3
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Anywhere from 3500 to 9000 depending on year and trick bits.

Buy an SV650. A litre bike is overkill. Most racers go faster on a 600 than a 1000. Corner speed is where its at......
What price range would you put the SV650 in? What's a low end number I might be able to find one at?
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:30 PM   #4
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2000-5000. Eric Falt is selling his SV for 4000. I think it is the same bike he won the number one plate with in 09...........
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:05 PM   #5
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One of these days I would like to make the transition from the road to the track. But I'm unwilling to turn my R1 into a full time track bike at this time. I want to ease myself into it. For those in the know, how much can I expect to pay for a liter track bike? Preferably a R1? Don't care about the looks, just so long as it runs well and will last long enough to get my moneys worth.
Depending on your size, you might have a helluva lot more fun on a 600. If I was smaller, that's what I'd use at the track.

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Old 01-14-2011, 11:11 PM   #6
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+1 on the 1k being overkill for the track. It just makes the chance of a wreck from being to hard on the gas just that much more likely. If u can really ride then do whatever suits you. I've seen some nice track bikes going for similar above in the 3k range. It's cheap enough for some optimal race fairings $355 ( if they are made for ur bike) then u can keep ur street fairings Minty. That's what I'm doing, but I'm planning to race this year.
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:13 PM   #7
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:20 PM   #8
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I wanted to edit my post but it's too late. If u are considering a 1000 then I don't think you will be thrilled on an sv. I felt really slow on a 600 (I'm 6'2 230). So I compromised with the 750. It's got the accel to stay close to the 1k's yet it's a little more forgiving.
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:36 AM   #9
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Always better to be a fast guy on a slow bike rather than a slow guy on a fast bike.
You'll realize that the first time a sv or 600 tucks up under you in a turn with the throttle wide open while you are gently rolling on trying to keep that big 1k from highsiding you to the moon.
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Old 01-15-2011, 12:09 PM   #10
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I do understand where he is coming from. I only want to ride liter bikes on the street, and it would be ideal to ride the same bike on the track. The techniques learned on the track would more easily transfer to your street bike.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:41 PM   #11
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I've got an SV racebike on consignment here in SA for $2200

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/mcy/2135002348.html
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:58 PM   #12
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Get what your comfortable with...........all I've ever used were litre bikes at the track, everytime I've ridden a 600 I've been dissapointed.
No matter what you use, you'll learn a lot doing TD's and your gonna get passed.
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:59 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the responses. You have provided me with a lot of useful info. There are several reasons I was wanting a liter bike for the track. 1) That's all I have ever ridden when it comes to sports bikes. 2) I have taken my R1 out to the track before and liked it......I don't want to go with race plastics for my R1, for it's not fear of merely scratching my street plastics, but fear of doing major damage to my R1. That's why I want to easy myself into it......I may end up doing as so many others have done. Convert their street bike to track only and give up the street riding. But until that time, I want an interim track bike
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:12 PM   #14
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Consider a GSXR750. Almost as fast as a 1000, nearly the same weight as a 600.
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:49 AM   #15
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My trackbike is a gsxr600.

All this talk about "what you're comfortable with" and "what you're used to" is a giant load of hooey. If you're dead set on buying a litre bike for the track, do it. Obviously you're willing to go through the mental gymnastics necessary to justify it, so just buy it. Just realize that, so far, most of the reasons for getting a litre bike that have been posted are absolute .
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:25 AM   #16
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I've got a gsxr 1000 trackbike with a matt mladin motor. $2500. Needs a windscreen and some track tires
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:38 AM   #17
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Back in the day I seen Ben Spies eat a liter bike in the corners all day long and he was on a TZ.
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:49 AM   #18
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:37 PM   #19
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Man, there are some great bikes out there for sale right now. As for "what" to get, well, that's up to you. As a noob on the track, one bike really isn't going to be any better than another. The good riders can ride lightweights, middleweights, and heavyweights pretty equally. So, let's throw all that stuff about displacement out the window.

I like to do a pro vs con list when considering a bike for track duty.

Tire wear- well, a liter bike will eat a back tire during a track day. Now on your first several td's you may get away with street tires that last a long time, but for sure the back tire will get cooked first. Consider that tires are going to be a bigger consumable with a liter bike. Once you get going well though, you'll chew through tires on just about any size bike, so anything other than an SV will add the cost in to the equation.

Handling- well, all of today's modern bikes handle just about the same. Meaning that straight out of the box you're going to get a good handling machine with little or no modifications. When it comes to handling, I like to compare bikes to a 600RR. The 600RR is probably the most narrow and highly centered weighted bike I've ever ridden. The Daytona 675 is almost identical. Both of these bikes are really flickable and turn in well, but both suffer a bit with grunt out of the corners- but that goes to engines. The 1000RR is about the same, narrow, but wider than the 600RR. The most neutral bikes I've ridden were the GSXR 600/ 750/ 1000 of almost any generation. The R6 is totally a toss up as is the R1. I haven't ridden a '09+ R1 on the track yet, but I'd like to as I hear the cross plane is a great compromise between a twin's handling an a i-4 handling. Having spent the majority of my racing on a twin, I think I would really work well with the new R1.

Engines- Well, face it. Any modern bike has the potential to spit you upon your head at a given moment. YOU are the difference. Power delivery from given bikes is different. The GSXR's tend to be a bit "peaky", meaning the power comes on strong and suddenly. I've tuned most of that out of my bike, but you'll find most are like that. Some folks don't like that, after time you'll get used to it. Once you learn how your bike acts on the track and how you're able to put that knowledge to use, you'll improve everything else. This isn't much arguing that a liter bike or at least a 750 can help you cause a crash related to throttle application than the smaller engine bikes. You might consider taking that out of the equation because it's just one more thing you have to learn in moderation.

So, in a nut shell, brand won't really matter. They're all great bikes, right out of the box. Engine size will come in to play as a part of the equation because while some folks say they never had a problem with theirs at the track, doesn't mean you won't. My personal opinion, and it sounds like you've already made up your mind based on how you've posted, is to start with a smaller bike, but get one that fits you well. Issues like tire wear and the ever-present high horsepower of the liter bikes is enough to steer me away from them for new folks. That money is better spent on other things than constantly buying rear tires.

Remember, most folks crash due to several reasons, but mainly it's target fixation in most cases. Believe it or not, having a higher hp bike can also add another dimension to that fact because the faster bikes will cause corner entry to be perceived as too fast by the rider, and of course too much throttle or improper application of throttle can cause a sudden event too.
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:13 PM   #20
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