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Old 12-20-2010, 05:46 PM   #41
BRYAN
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Wait. Is this tire thread or a soap box thread for people to judge Sunday_rider on how he rides? This is some elementary , short bus, bullshit!

He asked about tires... So let's talk about some tires!

BT"s are also a choice tire Sir.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:25 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by baditalian00 View Post
Wait. Is this tire thread or a soap box thread for people to judge Sunday_rider on how he rides? This is some elementary , short bus, bullshit!

He asked about tires... So let's talk about some tires!

BT"s are also a choice tire Sir.
Yes Bryan i might stick with the bt016s, it works great on the duc so it shouldn't be any different on the s1000rr!
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:39 PM   #43
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I have Metz on my track bike and I love them. They never let me down. But I have K2. I have BT016 for my street bike and like them as well, so, I cannot offer you much of an opinion other than those K3 will not last you long at all in the streets.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:42 PM   #44
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I have Metz on my track bike and I love them. They never let me down. But I have K2. I have BT016 for my street bike and like them as well, so, I cannot offer you much of an opinion other than those K3 will not last you long at all in the streets.
Thanks for your input, i should stick with the bt016s i think cause i really like them on the duc
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:12 PM   #45
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I'm glad you're still liking the 16's!

I'd go with those since you have no complaints so far. If you're just itching to try something new to know which you like better, I'd go with the Supercorsas. Those would be my choices if it were my bike.
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:50 PM   #46
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I'm glad you're still liking the 16's!

I'd go with those since you have no complaints so far. If you're just itching to try something new to know which you like better, I'd go with the Supercorsas. Those would be my choices if it were my bike.
Yeah i kind of wanna try the pirellis either rossos or supercorsas but the bt016s have worked really good so i dont know if i should switch or not
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:00 PM   #47
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There's a ton of stuff to say about the comments from the OP and others, but I won't as it doesn't matter as history has shown.

For tires, BT016's and BT003RS's are fine for street riding with an edge on BT016's for your few turns on RR at 130 mph. RR is not challenging from any technical standpoint, so I would say stick with the 016's. I recently tried Pirelli's Supercorsa Pros on the motard and they were great. They are now toast after about 6 track days, so I was very happy with the performance versus longevity as the whole life span was at the track.

016's are great tires and will last longer with your majority of straight line riding. Yes they are scrubbed in, so congratulations; but those aren't anything compared to what I have seen others do at track days when the tire is up to full temp. I had some BT45's that looked worse after a day at TWS (Texas World Speedway) on an older FZR600 I had, and I am not a "fast" track day rider by any means.

Like Tom said, for street use, buy what you want. You aren't (and most aren't) anywhere near the limit of the tires while on the street regardless of what brand has been mentioned.

What tire pressure are you using on the 016's?

I also second speaking with John or Patrick as those guys have forgotten more about proper tires pressures and set up and than most have ever known.

Be safe out there on your rides at 130 mph, but I strongly suggest you get to the track to really experience what you, your bike, and tires are really capable of. Your comments about being able to finally shift without pulling the clutch in and where your doing it reveal quite a bit (just my opinion, could be wrong). Considering your querries as to buying a watch or bike, you may want to reappropriate a bit of your funds for track days.

You won't regret taking a hit on the track pipe. It will absolutely make you a better rider reardless of your capabilities now.

My 0.02. Actually it's free advice, so feel free to ignore it if you like.

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Old 12-20-2010, 08:20 PM   #48
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No thread jack, but thought you might like this based on the shifting comment I made in my comment in response to this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunday_rider View Post
the shift assist is really nice, you can even shift mid corner without having to pull the clutch in and the bike shifts up very smoothly.

http://www.sportrider.com/ride/146_0...ing/index.html


Clutchless Shifting - Riding Skills Series
Upshifting Without A Clutch
From the April, 2007 issue of Sport Rider

Click to View GalleryOnce its fundamental theory is understood, the skill of clutchless upshifting is typically mastered in a matter of minutes. For first-timers, snicking slickly through the gears without the clutch brings a smile of wonderment, as if they just learned a new magic trick.

Surprisingly, the last time this shifting trick was discussed in these pages it brought about a storm of controversy that continues through Sport Rider correspondence to this day. It's actually a time-honored technique that I first read about in a Motorcyclist story about Eddie Lawson more than two decades ago. After that story was published, Lawson earned four Grand Prix world championships, all before the rider-aid wizardry of electric shifters, which, by the way, use the same basic principles discussed here. Anyone who still doubts the advantages of clutchless upshifting is welcome argue with Mr. Lawson, though last time I checked he still isn't one to lose at anything.

Though it's difficult for many to initially accept, upshifting without a clutch is in many ways simpler than the conventional pull-the-clutch-in-while-rolling-off-the-gas, shift-up,let-the-clutch-out-smoothly-while-rolling-back-on-the-gas method most of us grew up using. Instead, simply preload the shifter lightly, then quickly let off the throttle slightly and then back on and-presto-you're in the next gear. Done correctly, a clutchless upshift sounds and feels like that of an electric shifter, and no, it's not abusive to the transmission; countless years of the SR staff racing their personal bikes stand witness to this. The key qualifier here is the phrase "done correctly." Fortunately this is as easy to feel as it is to learn.

First, understand that while accelerating, even mildly, you're able to lightly lift (preload) the shift lever with your toe without causing the transmission to shift or pop out of gear. By lightly, we mean perhaps two to four pounds of upward pressure for a moment before your desired shift point. Then, as the tach sweeps past the desired rpm, simply crack the throttle slightly off, then instantly back on, as quick as a blink of an eye. Don't fully shut the throttle; only close it enough to momentarily reverse the acceleration load on the transmission before returning the twist grip to its original position. Remember to release the pressure on the shift lever after the shift to allow the mechanism to ratchet back and index the next gear.

As Kevin Schwantz teaches at his school, clutchless upshifting doesn't have to be under full-throttle acceleration and, in fact, is best learned under moderate acceleration at partial throttle. Once mastered, however, you'll find that it works at any speed and any rpm. Initially, it takes a bit of trial and error to get the timing and feel for it, and different bikes may require slightly different amounts of throttle change or quickness of movement, but you'll know when you hit the right combination. The shifter should snick into gear with a smooth movement and no notchiness. The bike's acceleration between gears should be virtually seamless.

All this clutch-free shifting business isn't just to impress your friends or passenger, however; there are several tangible advantages as well. As a man who earned his living (and the '93 world championship) wrestling savagely unsophisticated two-stroke GP bikes before the days of engine-management software, Schwantz is able to demonstrate that a well-executed clutchless upshift upsets the bike less than a conventional shift. In my 26 years of experience, I miss fewer shifts when I shift without using the lever on my left handlebar. Exiting right-hand corners with my body hung off to the inside (I'm talking track riding here, since, for several reasons, I do not hang off on the street), it's far easier to just snap back the throttle for an upshift than to make sure my left forearm is in position to allow my fingers to properly manipulate the clutch as well. It's simply one less thing to do, one less thing to think about and one less thing to go wrong.

We're not saying you should forget about using the clutch entirely; there are plenty of situations where it's likely to be to your advantage. But at the same time, clutchless upshifting is a skill worth learning. Don't get discouraged if it doesn't come to you on your first, second or 16th time. Practice it in a parking lot, or on a remote stretch of straight road, at moderate speed in an environment that allows you to give this novel technique your full attention and, by trial and error, varying the quickness and amount of throttle movement, it will come to you. When the situations warrant it, using your new shifting skill should give you all the satisfaction of pulling a rabbit out of a hat.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:26 PM   #49
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I didn't know you were supposed to use a clutch to upshift. I never do when I'm doing 140+ mph on Racer Road.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:47 PM   #50
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I ride with 16s on my street bike no complaints here. But I ran the dragon pro trackday and loved them for the track
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:16 PM   #51
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I ride with 16s on my street bike no complaints here. But I ran the dragon pro trackday and loved them for the track
Yeah same here..... i probably switch to the bt016s for the s1000rr then
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:13 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Tojo92 View Post
1. There's a ton of stuff to say about the comments from the OP and others, but I won't as it doesn't matter as history has shown.

2. For tires, BT016's and BT003RS's are fine for street riding with an edge on BT016's for your few turns on RR at 130 mph. RR is not challenging from any technical standpoint, so I would say stick with the 016's. I recently tried Pirelli's Supercorsa Pros on the motard and they were great. They are now toast after about 6 track days, so I was very happy with the performance versus longevity as the whole life span was at the track.

3. 016's are great tires and will last longer with your majority of straight line riding. Yes they are scrubbed in, so congratulations; but those aren't anything compared to what I have seen others do at track days when the tire is up to full temp. I had some BT45's that looked worse after a day at TWS (Texas World Speedway) on an older FZR600 I had, and I am not a "fast" track day rider by any means.

4. Like Tom said, for street use, buy what you want. You aren't (and most aren't) anywhere near the limit of the tires while on the street regardless of what brand has been mentioned.

5. What tire pressure are you using on the 016's?

6. I also second speaking with John or Patrick as those guys have forgotten more about proper tires pressures and set up and than most have ever known.

7. Be safe out there on your rides at 130 mph, but I strongly suggest you get to the track to really experience what you, your bike, and tires are really capable of. Your comments about being able to finally shift without pulling the clutch in and where your doing it reveal quite a bit (just my opinion, could be wrong). Considering your querries as to buying a watch or bike, you may want to reappropriate a bit of your funds for track days.

You won't regret taking a hit on the track pipe. It will absolutely make you a better rider reardless of your capabilities now.

My 0.02. Actually it's free advice, so feel free to ignore it if you like.

Staton
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Yes, haters will always be haters!

2. I think you didnt understand my question when you read this thread, i was asking people's opinion about "street tires" to replace the k3s with.... i never mentioned anything about racer road being a challenge in any form to anyone!

3. I do not commute on my bike so the only straight line that i do is actually getting from point A to RR. The pic of my front tire was after 2 runs at RR, NOT at the "track", as i mention i only have 300 miles on that tire! I have seen plenty of tires that are worst then mine at the track but i wasn't really talking about that either.

4. Yes i agree with Tom and i thank him for the info

5. 33 front / 35 rear is what i prefer to run on the duc

6. The first thing i did when i got my S1000RR was to visit Patrick to set up the suspension, and that was 2 weeks ago i believe, but at that time i didnt have a nail in my tire so that conversation never came up.

7. Yeah i really want to start doing track days next year, it is quite exhausting to manage 6 manufacturing plants in different countries so that keeps me flying during weekdays and back home on weekends, but when i am home i really dont want to wake up too early to prepare the bike for the track and spend the whole day at the track, i have family and wife to split my weekend time with.

My comment about the quick shifter was in response to Curt's question.... you have obviously never ridden with me before but i normally do not shift in the middle of the turn! i was simply trying to tell curt that the engine/transmission/quick shifter works so smoothly that "even" if you were to shift in the middle of the turn it will not upset the bike/chassis at all!

About the bike or watch thing, well what can i say? got the bike already so next its going to be the watch! As far as funds for trackdays go, it was discussed on hpc but here it is to refresh your mind..... last year i set aside enough funds to do trackdays for the whole year including all the tire expenses and parts, since my work schedule did not allow me to do any track days i offered a good friend of mine to sponsor him to race using the money that i had set aside.... end of story on that.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:15 PM   #53
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Yeah...I'm gonna ignore you from here on out. Not worth the effort to type.

Your front/rear pressure explains it all.

Have a good one.

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Old 12-20-2010, 11:11 PM   #54
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Yeah...I'm gonna ignore you from here on out. Not worth the effort to type.

Your front/rear pressure explains it all.

Have a good one.

Staton
you are one funny guy Tojo92.... you are going to ignore me from now on? were we ever friends before? frankly speaking, i could care less about being ignored by someone like you ...... let's be real here, "not worth the effort to type"? and yet you wrote 2 long paragraphs in response to a very simple question: k3s vs scs?..... you went on about racer road not being challenging enough for you, the condition of your tires after a few track days compared to mine and blah blah blah blah..... none of them serving of any meaningful purpose to this thread
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:31 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunday_rider View Post
I try to get away and you pull me back in...(Godfather III scene)

Ok, one last comment...based on this quote above, really I can see where your coming from as I am an attractive man (ask my wife, she sees it ), but your not my type. A handjob is tempting, but Imagonnapassontheofferfromyounow(andlater).

You figure out the issue with your tire pressures yet? Yeah, I didn't think so.

Really, I'm done now, cuz I know it hurts your feelings...really it's ok. If you need a hug, I'm sure someone will volunteer.

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AKA Mongo

(tojo92 is just the user name, I don't mind my real name being out there).
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:15 AM   #56
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Let me help you, you've had enough time to google by now...

http://www.sportrider.com/ride/146_0...ion/index.html

and

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/tires...ure/index.html

Really, I'm done now....(for now)

Figure it out yet? I can't spoon feed you, that would be awkward considering your earlier offer...

Only one really applies to the issue, see if you can get it right.

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Last edited by Tojo92; 12-21-2010 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:33 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tojo92 View Post
Let me help you, you've had enough time to google by now...

http://www.sportrider.com/ride/146_0...ion/index.html

and

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/tires...ure/index.html

Really, I'm done now....(for now)

Figure it out yet? I can't spoon feed you, that would be awkward considering your earlier offer...

Only one really applies to the issue, see if you can get it right.

Staton
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:56 AM   #58
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Quote:
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I try to get away and you pull me back in...(Godfather III scene)

Ok, one last comment...based on this quote above, really I can see where your coming from as I am an attractive man (ask my wife, she sees it ), but your not my type. A handjob is tempting, but Imagonnapassontheofferfromyounow(andlater).

You figure out the issue with your tire pressures yet? Yeah, I didn't think so.

Really, I'm done now, cuz I know it hurts your feelings...really it's ok. If you need a hug, I'm sure someone will volunteer.

Staton
AKA Mongo

(tojo92 is just the user name, I don't mind my real name being out there).
I never tried to pull you back.... you wanted to come back, just admit it

as far as tire pressure goes, i am comfortable with my set up on the street, been riding for long and never had any issues with it.

as far as hurting my feelings? i am pretty sure it is the way around i just think it's funny that i have you doing research looking for more useful information because you alone cannot provide.... are you looking for my approval?

as far as you being an attractive man, i really don't know anything about that, i only find women attractive, but if that is your thing, hey it's a free country right?

now back on topic: have you tried the k3s and scs on your bike before? if so, which ones you like better? if not....... STFU!
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