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Old 12-12-2010, 05:08 PM   #1
c2duevas
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:13 PM   #2
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is it crunching? or more like a clicking, rattling kind of sound. Maybe its time for new chain? Mine's about to bite the dust, and its starting to make a weird sound..
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:15 PM   #3
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:24 PM   #4
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No its not normal. Look at the blocks on the axle . There is hash marks to make sure they are even.
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:31 PM   #5
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2duevas View Post
i dont have blocks... its a circle thing... and that marks arent on both sides... but i heard that being off a few clicks is normal... mine is off by 4 1/2... if i made them even the sprocket was hitting the chain on the side... i checked my sprocket and it looks fine... all the teeth are there... doesnt look bent or anything


no its not normal, they need to be even!!!! u will wear out the tire, chain, sprokets and have no turning stability, who ever told u that i would advise u never ask them for advise or have them touch your bike ever again.... who did u take your bike to to get the tire?


also check the chain for a tight spot or spots... with the rear wheel up off ground, spin the wheel and at same time put pressure on the chain and see if it gets tight n loose. if its not a steady feel then u need to either replace it or try lubing it and see how bad it is, alittle tight spot is ok. just depends how it is.
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:05 PM   #7
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Spin the rear wheel with the back off the ground and see if there is any lateral runout on the rear sprocket (moving side to side when it turns). If so, take the wheel back off and fully seat the cush drive/sprocket carrier is fully seated on the wheel and that there is nothing that is causing it to be cocked.

Did it do it at all (even slightly) before the tire swap too? the chain and sprockets may be needing replacement. If you have the chain substantially tighter than recommended, it will wear the sprockets and chain at a much faster rate. Grab the chain at the very rear of the back sprocket and pull it straight back away from the sprocket. You should not be able to get a substantial amount of space between the sprocket and the part of the chain you are moving. It shouldn't uncover more than about 1/3 the height of a tooth, preferrably less. If there's a lot of slop, it's time for sprockets and a chain. Don't skimp, as replacing only the chain and leaving the old sprockets will substantially decrease the life of the new chain unless the sprockets are in exceptionally good shape. Anyway, food for thought.

I remember working on a guy's YZF 6R several years ago for a popping noise on acceleration. He'd tightened the chain beause it "sounded loose." It was so tight that it had preload rather than any slack in it. It wore the front sprocket teeth nearly completely off. The popping sound was the chain links skipping over the nubs of what used to be the teeth under acceleration.
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:15 PM   #8
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If there are no marks you should measure. They need to be even.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:16 PM   #9
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:34 PM   #10
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A rust free chain does not mean its a good chain. Im not saying it bad though. I do think you need some help. Its very important that its right. A chain failure can be real bad.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:52 PM   #11
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Best just to measure it even if you have those lines on the axle block. Wheels and brakes being in proper order is crucial to living a long happy life.
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