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Old 10-12-2010, 08:00 PM   #1
sainthaloblue
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mineral oil

has anybody ever heard of using mineral oil on a bike for the first 2 or 3 oil changes. while breaking in engine
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:02 PM   #2
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Read the owners manual or consult a dealer.
Follow the instructions and don't listen to what "people" say.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:04 PM   #3
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Don't do it.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:08 PM   #4
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lol I hear E.V.O.O. is the way to go with the newer motors.....................

JK JK just use what your manual tells you
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:39 AM   #5
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I have NEVER heard of putting mineral oil in ANY combustion engine. . .

BTW, welcome to Motohouston. If Patrick says "don't do it", DON'T DO IT!
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:42 AM   #6
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deff not!!!! wow were do people come up with this stuff,,,, its like people just say random things a spread it around and people start believing it. sorry this just makes me mad when i see things like this. i dont get the dumb people that told u this
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:56 AM   #7
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Thats ridiculous, everyone knows EXTRA virgin Olive oil is the best break in oil.
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:04 AM   #8
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Thats ridiculous, everyone knows EXTRA virgin Olive oil is the best break in oil.
You're are asking for a warning.
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:27 AM   #9
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LMAO at cogs!!

Idk who told you that, but my rule. If pat simply says "dont. do. it." its as simple as that buddy!
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:29 AM   #10
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Put some NOS energy drink in there with it and you will get like 50 extra horsepower. Seriously, don't do it. Some clutches can use mineral oil but that is about it.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:00 AM   #11
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You're are asking for a warning.
Take this as a grammar warning....

Quote:
Originally Posted by K. Oliveira View Post
LMAO at cogs!!

Idk who told you that, but my rule. If pat simply says "dont. do. it." its as simple as that buddy!


As for breaking in engines, my dad has always used rotella. He breaks in all motors with it. I have yet to be lucky enough to enjoy the thrill of breaking in a new motorcycle, so I don't know the right answer anyways.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:24 AM   #12
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With one post could this be a troll?

As for mineral oil the below article may shed some light on the mineral oil bit. Like Patrick said DON'T DO IT. The engines in the typical sportbike are highly engineered pieces of tech with tight controls on the manufacturing processes. Many (most?) have a ceramic or nitrided coating on the ID of the cylinder walls and really would not benefit from mineral oil (read you could destroy your toy).

The mineral oil was to help with cast iron blocks without good control on the cylinder wall honed cross hatching. I think it would clear the chips between the cross hatch and the piston rings (a guess). Mineral oil will not protect the bearings or other critical sliding contacts as well as the correct oil so use the manufacturer's recommendation.

Now if you are rebuilding an old small block and know what the heck you are doing you may want to look into mineral oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, July 2000 issue
Using synthetic-oil in engine break-ins

Many readers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.

Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?

To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.

Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.

While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.
also recommended by this article (Aviation not bikes)
http://www.tcmlink.com/visitors/carenfeed/brkin.pdf
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:59 AM   #13
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guys i can't help but feeling the "mineral oil" they are talking about would be conventional engine oil, which is what i have always used to break in a fresh engine: be it a car, motorcycle or dirtbike.
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
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guys i can't help but feeling the "mineral oil" they are talking about would be conventional engine oil, which is what i have always used to break in a fresh engine: be it a car, motorcycle or dirtbike.
LOLZ
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r6rb-ray View Post
guys i can't help but feeling the "mineral oil" they are talking about would be conventional engine oil, which is what i have always used to break in a fresh engine: be it a car, motorcycle or dirtbike.
That's a negative on that theory. Unless they are just being clueless on definitions.
"A straight weight non-dispersant mineral oil conforming to SAE J1966 is recommended for the break-in period." from my aviation link. This is not dino standard motor oil we are discussing.
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:44 PM   #16
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I think he was told mineral oil and just didn't understand the meaning.
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:39 PM   #17
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Non-synthetic MOTUL motorcycle-specific jugs say "MINERAL OIL" on the front, no?
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Non-synthetic MOTUL motorcycle-specific jugs say "MINERAL OIL" on the front, no?
I stand corrected. Just make sure anything that says mineral oil matches the requirements of the manufacturer.
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:05 PM   #19
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Mineral oil is standard oil.
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:09 PM   #20
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the problem here is that there are 2 ways to interpret "Mineral Oil".

If we are talking about non-synthetic, motorcycle specific oil, then that's a good choice for using in a bike, breaking it in or not.

If we are talking about the stuff you get at the drug store to make you , then that is a bad choice for motorcycle engines, breaking it in or not.

When somebody comes into a moto forum and just throws out, "Can I use mineral oil to break in my bike" it would be unwise to just say, "Yeah, that will work great".
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