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Old 06-02-2010, 11:31 PM   #1
jisatsuguy
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target air fuel ratios?

what yall suggest for idle, partial, and full throttle?
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:06 AM   #2
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I know nothing about A/F ratios but I can guarantee people are going to want to know...

Make/model/year/mods/ride style/ETC
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Old 06-03-2010, 02:25 AM   #3
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ok, 07 cbr 1000rr, micron slip on, k&n filters... i usually set a turbo car between 11.8 and 12.25 depending on the make... naturally aspirated cars get 12.5-13 afr.. im not a dyno and i like to give the owners a lil cushion- room to breathe if u will... just curious if bikes like to run leaner than cars
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Old 06-03-2010, 07:43 AM   #4
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WOT 12.8
Idle and light load/light throttle 13.2-14; adjust to suit

Pretty much the same as any N/A motor
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Old 06-03-2010, 08:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
WOT 12.8
Idle and light load/light throttle 13.2-14; adjust to suit

Pretty much the same as any N/A motor
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Old 06-03-2010, 08:19 AM   #6
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thanks texlurch... have u ever tuned a slightly rich idle to keep temp down in traffic/school zone/stop light situations? not rich enough to foul plugs, just far away from stoic at low rpm to make a temp difference... too bad pulling plugs to read em involves poppin off plastic, lifting tank n aitbox, etc...
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Old 06-03-2010, 08:22 AM   #7
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nevermind... that falls into the 13-14 to suit part
cant wait to datalog dis $hit!
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:33 AM   #8
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Lean is usually crisper, and better throttle response

BUT

Different cams and exhaust systems want different things, so there is no hard fast rule.

And unless you have the sensor for the logger close to the collector, your idle readings are gonna hunt around a bit.

I like to tune for WOT and full load first, then play around with the rest to get good throttle response and clean idle, easy starts. Final dial in is light load, part throttle for best economy.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:03 AM   #9
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leaner doesnt always mean faster either. Leaner may show better HP numbers while a little richer may show better e/t on the track.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:11 AM   #10
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You need to most fuel and timing at the RPM where you make peak torque. After that real world tuning is required to account for ram air effects etc. Normally you go a tad leaner as you approach the HP peak, and the timing, but not always.

And peak power on a dyno is almost always too lean for the real world.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:19 AM   #11
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The WEGO helps by allowing you to plug in a target a/f number... say 12.8. Then you ride around and log, and come back. It then gives you reccommended changes to your fuel table... adjust, go make another pass. 2 or 3 and you have it pretty close overall. Then you plug in a light load number and go tune those sections.

Pays for itself versus multiple dyno sessions, and I can use on multiple bikes. I just need to play with the sniffer to give me better light load and idle readings when it's on other bikes. The two 12's will have dedicated bungs shortly.
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