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Old 03-09-2010, 12:44 PM   #1
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Brakes - Assistance Please?

Anyone here have a MityVac or something and willing to teach me how to use it? I want to learn how bleed my brakes so I don't always have to take it to a shop to do. Was thinking of buying a Mityvac to do it, but would like some 'schooling' in the process and before I buy the equipment.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:47 PM   #2
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TIP. On the rear bleed at the master before you try to bleed at the caliper. You pump and the crack the the bolt a little to bleed the air. Wet a rag and use it to catch the fluid. After the air is out at the master move to the rear caliper.
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:48 PM   #3
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does this help?
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:13 PM   #4
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Do a search in the threads; I describe a method to bleed/flush w a tube submerged in fluid. No special tools required.

I'd copy and paste but I usually have to write it up every 3wks or so.
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
Do a search in the threads; I describe a method to bleed/flush w a tube submerged in fluid. No special tools required.

I'd copy and paste but I usually have to write it up every 3wks or so.
Just a thought but: see if you can pm a moderator and put the words tech tip in the thread. If anyone needs to search for tech articles, they can do a title search for tech tips and get your thread. I wish we had a tech sticky, it would cut down on redundant threads.
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
Do a search in the threads; I describe a method to bleed/flush w a tube submerged in fluid. No special tools required.

I'd copy and paste but I usually have to write it up every 3wks or so.
old skool...but works!
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:03 PM   #7
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aquarium tubing stuffed into a coke bottle
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:08 PM   #8
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If you are just wanting to flush the brake system, to get fresh fluid in the caliper etc., the MityVac is handy not really necessary.
If you have air in the system (mushy brake lever) then a MityVac will make the job easier. Again not necessary but useful.
The difference is that you can move a larger volume of fluid more easily with the vac.
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
Do a search in the threads; I describe a method to bleed/flush w a tube submerged in fluid. No special tools required.

I'd copy and paste but I usually have to write it up every 3wks or so.
Is this it? -->
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
My recommendation: use a manual brake bleeding method not vacuum so you can see and control all the possible air in/out of the system:

1)get a clear container(gatorade, whatever) dry it out completely, fill w 1/3 DOT4 or whatever your bike requires.

2)submerge a hose into the fluid, put the other end on the furthest, lease direct caliper from the master. Crack the bleeder just enough so pressure applied to the master via the lever has resistance but does pull to the handle.

3)begin pumping the brakes but do not tighten/loosen the bleeder screw. Everytime you release the lever to pull again, if the system sucks back up, it will pull the fluid that is already in the container you submerged the fluid in. You will be able to see air coming out in bubbles.

Repeat on other caliper.

4)keep an eye on the reservoir up top. If the lever is soft and goes all the way in, w no pressure applied to the front brakes, the level dropped below the master cylinder inlet line when you were working on the bike. If you have a box reservoir, turn the handle bars to the left, put the bike on the side stand and you'll see the trapped air come out of the master cylinder. Air travels to the hightest point of the system. Lever still soft? crack the bangobolt at the 90 degree fitting for the master cylinder w a rag around the fixture to capture fluid while holding pressure on the lever(briefly, to remove trapped air.) If there is still light effort on the lever, the master cylinder may already be damaged.

5)begin the pump/hold/crack bleeder method whilest the tube is still emerged. remember to close the bleeder screw while the system is still underpressure and not after the lever hits the handlebar.

If that sounds like alot of work or confusing, the brakes are more important then the bike accelerating. Consult a sponsor.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:30 PM   #10
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That's it. lol.

I'll copy it to my computer for easy access later.
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetcycles View Post
Will check it at home... Youtube is blocked at the job...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
aquarium tubing stuffed into a coke bottle
What size? or is it all the same size?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
If you are just wanting to flush the brake system, to get fresh fluid in the caliper etc., the MityVac is handy not really necessary.
If you have air in the system (mushy brake lever) then a MityVac will make the job easier. Again not necessary but useful.
The difference is that you can move a larger volume of fluid more easily with the vac.
My brake fluid is a nasty brown color and would like to replace it (flush) not remove air in the system (bleed)... so is it best to just gravity bleed it? If so, how long does that take?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
That's it. lol.

I'll copy it to my computer for easy access later.
Steps 1 thru 4 are for testing for a leak, while step #5 is the actual process to flush/bleed, correct?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:32 PM   #13
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Going to try this this weekend....

What kind of brake fluid do you guys run in your bikes? I don't know what the shops use, but I have a bottle of Valvoline Dot 3&4 SynPower in the garage and was wondering if i could use that or if I have to go and get Motul RBF 600, or Repsol, etc.?

Let me know. Thanks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:47 PM   #14
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Use a new bottle of fluid. Once the seal has been broken the fluid can absorb moisture from the air. Moisture in brake fluid can cause 2 potential problems;
It can cause corrosion in the caliper and mastercylinder.
It can, under extreme use, turn to steam and cause the brakes to drag or even lock.

Unless you are a very aggresive/track rider just use regular brake fluid of the spec reccommended by the mfr., i.e. DOT 4 or 5(most likely). Most people probably dont need high zoot racing brake fluid.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indoMLA View Post
My brake fluid is a nasty brown color and would like to replace it (flush) not remove air in the system (bleed)... so is it best to just gravity bleed it? If so, how long does that take?
The description is not exactly "gravity" bleeding. What you are doing is squeezing the brake lever to apply pressure to the system, then gently cracking the bleeder, on the caliper, open slightly.
This will cause fluid to be forced from the system into the tube attached to the bleeder. As it comes out, the lever will move towards the handlebar. Before it gets there, close the bleeder, BEFORE you release pressure on the lever. This should be done as the lever is still moving slowly towards the bar. Otherwise, it will suck the fluid you just pushed out, back into the system, along with some air. Keep repeating until you get clear fluid out of the bleeder. You will want to do this slowly, if you get in a hurry, it is easy to get air in which will cause mushy brakes. The fluid should sort of ooze out of the bleeder.
Keep in mind that you are depleting the fluid in the master cylinder. You will want to check it frequently and add fliuid as needed, otherwise when the level gets low you can pump air into the system as you squeeze the lever.

I hope this makes it more clear.
It aint rocket science, just think about how it works, pay attention to what you are doing, have everything ready before you start and take your time. It shouldn't take more than 30 mins or so, but don't be in a rush.
If brake fluid gets on anything painted, clean it immediately, and of course be careful not to get it on the discs or pads.
You'll do fine.
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
Use a new bottle of fluid. Once the seal has been broken the fluid can absorb moisture from the air. Moisture in brake fluid can cause 2 potential problems;
It can cause corrosion in the caliper and mastercylinder.
It can, under extreme use, turn to steam and cause the brakes to drag or even lock.

Unless you are a very aggresive/track rider just use regular brake fluid of the spec reccommended by the mfr., i.e. DOT 4 or 5(most likely). Most people probably dont need high zoot racing brake fluid.
Please note. . .I do not believe DOT 5 brake fluid is compatible with your 2002 braking system. I've been wrong before, so double check that. DOT 5.1 might work, but the system will need to be flushed of all DOT 4 if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
Use a new bottle of fluid. Once the seal has been broken the fluid can absorb moisture from the air. Moisture in brake fluid can cause 2 potential problems;
It can cause corrosion in the caliper and mastercylinder.
It can, under extreme use, turn to steam and cause the brakes to drag or even lock.

Unless you are a very aggresive/track rider just use regular brake fluid of the spec reccommended by the mfr., i.e. DOT 4 or 5(most likely). Most people probably dont need high zoot racing brake fluid.
1. Thanks.
2. The bottle of Valvoline DOT 3&4 SynPower, is new and was left over from my car brake job... Just wanted to know if there is difference between this or motorcycle specific brake fluid... it all seems to be the same to me...
3. My bike is DOT 4 recommended... some have done 5.1 on my '02, but I am staying away from DOT 5 as it is silicone and I think I have read it requires some work to prep the bike to accept that... not worth it...


Quick question... I have seen in some guides that after you empty the main cylinder of the old fluid and place the new fluid in, some guides don't replace the master cylinder cap and some do. Is replacing it necessary to start the process? I am assuming that you don't have to replace it if you are using a vacuum (Mity Vac) but will have to replace it if you are going old school route. Thoughts?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:58 AM   #18
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I leave the cap off during the bleeding process.
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Old 03-11-2010, 06:51 PM   #19
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I leave the cap off during the bleeding process.
I am assuming you do this for both methods? I think I will do it the traditional way until i can get speed bleeders or a Mity Vac.

So leaving the reservoir cap off will still allow the system to pressurize?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton9698
...... but when i have problems being able to screw other things i normally tie them up and lube the out of it. dont be afraid do get rough with it. if you cant handle it with the tool you have maybe the task is to hard for you. in which case if could be time for some tag team action and maybe even a foursome...
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I am assuming you do this for both methods? I think I will do it the traditional way until i can get speed bleeders or a Mity Vac.

So leaving the reservoir cap off will still allow the system to pressurize?
Yes. The piston is in the bottom of the reservoir and needs only to be submerged in fluid to work.
Be careful the fluid doesn't slosh out onto the tank or other painted surface.
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