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Old 02-25-2010, 09:17 PM   #21
xhangyx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Trav View Post
im thinking we need to clean AND lube the chains?
+1

they are both very important...most people do not clean their chain like they should...you'd be surprised how much sand your chain picks up everyday
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xhangyx View Post
+1

they are both very important...most people do not clean their chain like they should...you'd be surprised how much sand your chain picks up everyday
Cleaning is the important part. The more lube you put on the more grit it will pick up.
Steel chain on steel sprocket doesn't really need lube, because there is very little motion between the 2.
I've got 20 somethin thousand on my rear sprocket (replaced front with diff size) and it shows no wear that I can see. And this aint my first rodeo.
Do what you want, lube aint gonna hurt anything, I'm just sayin' it's a waste of time and money. A little WD-40, applied regularly, to clean the chain and leave a little film to keep rust away is all you need.
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
Cleaning is the important part. The more lube you put on the more grit it will pick up.
Steel chain on steel sprocket doesn't really need lube, because there is very little motion between the 2.
I've got 20 somethin thousand on my rear sprocket (replaced front with diff size) and it shows no wear that I can see. And this aint my first rodeo.
Do what you want, lube aint gonna hurt anything, I'm just sayin' it's a waste of time and money. A little WD-40, applied regularly, to clean the chain and leave a little film to keep rust away is all you need.
you are a firm believer in how the manufacturer wants you to do things (referring to the "break-in procedure" thread).

heres what they have to say, at least in my book:

DRIVE CHAIN
Visually check the drive chain for the possible defects listed
below. (Support the motorcycle by a jack and a wooden block,
turn the rear wheel slowly by hand with the transmission shifted
to Neutral.)
* Loose pins * Excessive wear
* Damaged rollers * Improper chain adjustment
* Dry or rusted links * Missing O-ring seals
* Kinked or binding links
If any defect is found, the drive chain must be replaced.
NOTE:
When replacing the drive chain, replace the drive chain and
sprockets as a set.
CHECKING
Remove the axle cotter pin. (For E-03, 28, 33)
Loosen the axle nut 1.
Loosen the chain adjuster lock-nuts 2.
Give tension to the drive chain fully by turning both chain
adjuster bolts 3.
Inspect initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 2 months) and
every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 12 months) thereafter.
Clean and lubricate every 1 000 km (600 miles).
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:03 PM   #24
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i was thinking that same thing about the arguement of how much the manufacturer knows what's best for their bikes...contradiction much?
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xhangyx View Post
i was thinking that same thing about the arguement of how much the manufacturer knows what's best for their bikes...contradiction much?
just a wee lil bit as far as i can see.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:47 AM   #26
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I really appreciate all the advice everyone! It's been helpful.

I went over to Cyclegear off of 59/Bellaire and picked up PJ1 Blue Label Chain Lube, and Tirox Chain Clean 360 that came with a little brush attachment to get it cleaned up before the lubing :P! They didn't have motorex in stock, but I have a feeling both of these will improve the chain's current condition (it's not bad, but just needed the lube, so figured a little cleaning before hand wouldn't hurt).

Is there a limit to how much lube I should spray on? I know the more I apply the more sand and small particles will adhere to it, but how do you guys usually tell when enough is enough?
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:54 AM   #27
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a light coat is usually sufficient. you dont want globs and globs trying to hang onto the chain at 75mph.

or no lube.
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:03 AM   #28
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http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...lubes-2008.htm
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:02 AM   #29
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:50 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Trav View Post
you are a firm believer in how the manufacturer wants you to do things (referring to the "break-in procedure" thread).

heres what they have to say, at least in my book:

DRIVE CHAIN
Visually check the drive chain for the possible defects listed
below. (Support the motorcycle by a jack and a wooden block,
turn the rear wheel slowly by hand with the transmission shifted
to Neutral.)
* Loose pins * Excessive wear
* Damaged rollers * Improper chain adjustment
* Dry or rusted links * Missing O-ring seals
* Kinked or binding links
If any defect is found, the drive chain must be replaced.
NOTE:
When replacing the drive chain, replace the drive chain and
sprockets as a set.
CHECKING
Remove the axle cotter pin. (For E-03, 28, 33)
Loosen the axle nut 1.
Loosen the chain adjuster lock-nuts 2.
Give tension to the drive chain fully by turning both chain
adjuster bolts 3.
Inspect initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 2 months) and
every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 12 months) thereafter.
Clean and lubricate every 1 000 km (600 miles).
First define lubricate. I didn't say run a dry chain.
Second. I also said that the mfr's, are covering their . If you break from conventional wisdom and dont smear lube all over your chain and then something happens, they might be open to a lawsuit.
I see how it might seem like a contradiction but, you have to use your own judgement in this world. An engine and a chain are very different.
Do what you want, your chain will be fine. It doesn't care whether you spray all over it or not. That's the point, it doesn't need lube but if it makes you feel better, go ahead.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:47 AM   #31
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I love hearing a bike ride by and hearing a dry chain slapping and poppin all loud.
Kerosene to clean, Belrays synthetic allow 1 hour to dry. Good to go.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:59 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC083 View Post
I really appreciate all the advice everyone! It's been helpful.

I went over to Cyclegear off of 59/Bellaire and picked up PJ1 Blue Label Chain Lube, and Tirox Chain Clean 360 that came with a little brush attachment to get it cleaned up before the lubing :P! They didn't have motorex in stock, but I have a feeling both of these will improve the chain's current condition (it's not bad, but just needed the lube, so figured a little cleaning before hand wouldn't hurt).

Is there a limit to how much lube I should spray on? I know the more I apply the more sand and small particles will adhere to it, but how do you guys usually tell when enough is enough?
that stuff is going to fling like a and durty up that rim (at least it did all the times when i used it) my .02
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:12 AM   #33
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I honestly see where bumblebee is going with his argument. But a question to bumblebee: doesent wd40 dry up faster than lube? If so wouldnt you have to apply wd40 more often than you would lube to keep that "film" on?
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:14 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx6er View Post
that stuff is going to fling like a and durty up that rim (at least it did all the times when i used it) my .02
Hmmm dang. Well I haven't put it on yet, so I'll go back to cyclegear after work today and see what else I can get. I'll probably go up to the I-45 Northside and check out what they got in stock. The one I went to was just closer to me and they seemed to be sold out of a lot ;(.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:42 AM   #35
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all this talk about chain lube and not a single mention about lubing a chain AFTER your ride when the chain is warm and the lube has time to "set" on the chain as it cools. Those of you who are knocking certain lubes because they "sling" off and make a mess are probably doing it wrong. . .I'm no expert, but I did spend several years in the cycle industry and have seen thousands of people use "good" products in a "bad" way. There is no definitive answer to your question, at least you're lubing your chain now!!!!
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:46 AM   #36
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I'm not trying to be a smart @$$, but does it really make that much of a difference? warm it up..clean it off..lube it up..wipe off the excess.. I dont know that much about bikes..its just plain common sence.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:46 AM   #37
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Clean the chain however its recommended. Kero, cleaner, , whatever... After cleaning it run the bike a little bit and let the chain get warm then spray the wax. This it sticks with virtually no mess.

FYI... I was joking about the and whatever...
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:47 AM   #38
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Very true Joe, you have to have your chain semi warm for the lube to be most effective, even just riding around the neighborhood for 10 minutes will get it to a good temp. and its impportant to let it dry before you go riding again.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:57 AM   #39
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Quote:
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I'm not trying to be a smart @$$, but does it really make that much of a difference? warm it up..clean it off..lube it up..wipe off the excess.. I dont know that much about bikes..its just plain common sence.
common sense isn't very common anymore
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
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I honestly see where bumblebee is going with his argument. But a question to bumblebee: doesent wd40 dry up faster than lube? If so wouldnt you have to apply wd40 more often than you would lube to keep that "film" on?
Yes
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