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Old 02-13-2010, 10:10 PM   #1
suzu600r
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AIR IN THE BRAKE LINE

I HAVE A 2005 GSXR 600, I KEEP GETTING AIR IN THE FRONT BRAKE LINE. I HAVE BLED THE BRAKES ENOUGH TO GET THEM TO WORK, BUT I DONT WANT TO HAVE TO KEEP DOING THAT. ANY USEFUL INFORMATION WILL HELP.

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Old 02-13-2010, 10:40 PM   #2
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:58 PM   #3
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Bad lines?
or
Bad work?
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Old 02-13-2010, 11:14 PM   #4
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time for a Master cylinder rebuild maybe?
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:25 AM   #5
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:01 PM   #6
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Brake fluid is soy based and used because it absorbs moisture.

If you're getting air in, there ought to be a leak or your reservoir is too low and the master cylinder is pumping air into the pressure line.

otherwise, there's volume inside the brake system that is not getting pressurized enough during your bleeding procedure to get the air out.


My recommendation: use a manual brake bleeding method not vacuum so you can see and control all the possible air in/out of the system:

1)get a clear container(gatorade, whatever) dry it out completely, fill w 1/3 DOT4 or whatever your bike requires.

2)submerge a hose into the fluid, put the other end on the furthest, lease direct caliper from the master. Crack the bleeder just enough so pressure applied to the master via the lever has resistance but does pull to the handle.

3)begin pumping the brakes but do not tighten/loosen the bleeder screw. Everytime you release the lever to pull again, if the system sucks back up, it will pull the fluid that is already in the container you submerged the fluid in. You will be able to see air coming out in bubbles.

Repeat on other caliper.

4)keep an eye on the reservoir up top. If the lever is soft and goes all the way in, w no pressure applied to the front brakes, the level dropped below the master cylinder inlet line when you were working on the bike. If you have a box reservoir, turn the handle bars to the left, put the bike on the side stand and you'll see the trapped air come out of the master cylinder. Air travels to the hightest point of the system. Lever still soft? crack the bangobolt at the 90 degree fitting for the master cylinder w a rag around the fixture to capture fluid while holding pressure on the lever(briefly, to remove trapped air.) If there is still light effort on the lever, the master cylinder may already be damaged.

5)begin the pump/hold/crack bleeder method whilest the tube is still emerged. remember to close the bleeder screw while the system is still underpressure and not after the lever hits the handlebar.



If that sounds like alot of work or confusing, the brakes are more important then the bike accelerating. Consult a sponsor.
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:11 PM   #7
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I am going to get a set of braided stainless for the front and rear, as far as I know, its the original brake fluid. (how often should I change it) It also still has the original brake lines, I put new pads on it about 1500 miles ago.
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:36 PM   #8
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Check your intervals in the owners manual.

W DOT4 I dont go over 2yrs before flushing.
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:05 AM   #9
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Thanks for the help
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:07 AM   #10
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Come by one day and we'll put on the new lines.

I have a 'lil sucker pump to bleed 'em... makes taking the old ones off and putting the new ones on super easy.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Come by one day and we'll put on the new lines.

I have a 'lil sucker pump to bleed 'em... makes taking the old ones off and putting the new ones on super easy.
Cool dude! I appreciate that, pm me your contact info and ill let you know when i get my lines.I have a basic mechanical ability, but have never messed with the brake system. I'ts pretty important, and I could probably use some help from some one who's done it before.
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