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Old 01-19-2010, 12:08 AM   #1
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KZ1000 Rebuild

I have a 1980 KZ1000 LTD that i want beefed up to 1027 kit and ported and polished, but I am having trouble find a good shop in town. Alot of guys claim they can do it but i can't afford to be a test bike.

I need a real shop thats not going to ask for a arm and leg.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:35 AM   #2
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A quick one

i have seen alot of guys port and polish and they rarely do it correctly. Im very picky with my heads, i really nit pick when in comes to volume, and finish, and shape. There is a little motor shop outside rosenburg on 359 called H.A.M.S. Harolds automotive machine services. He has fair prices, and really does a bang up job. when a bike rolls out of there it really runs.
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Old 02-07-2010, 12:00 PM   #3
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You might check with Andy over at Metric Motorcycles and see what he says.

I would also post the question at and see if you get any info. There are still a number of people that drag race with KZ1000 engines so that is a direction to look as well.
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:12 PM   #4
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THERE a guy named Jerry pomilla off of 1488 ..I don't live in Houston anymore,,, but he has a shop ...or at least he did...called (bolt on performance )WISH i lived closer to houston ,cuz I have a old 1000 mill that I would take to him for work....he is bad to the bone in motors ,I dont''' have his number but type his name upon the web maybe you can locate him..cuz he is well known at the trac...
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:44 AM   #5
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in conroe on 105 in the back of the old NAPA store they have a machine shop, when i worked at Honda we had them do every single engine mod we had. They do alot of work on monstertruck engines. Not sure if it is the same for bikes but either way we never had anything sent back over two years using them.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:15 PM   #6
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If you have a high speed roto tool and any kind of common sense and manual dexterity you can do a decent port and polish yourself... The idea is to match the intake and exhaust ports on the heads to the "body of material" it is interfacing with to give less turbulent vapor flow ... You can open the runners if you want, but you'd be better off doing this with abrasive extrusion over manual material removal (by a machine shop unless you really want to buy a 45k machine to do one set of heads) ... Once you have the actual machining done, the polish is just that... if you can wax a car you can polish a head... it's just a little bit of time and some elbow grease ... and to be honest, is the more expensive part of the job since it is more time consuming. You may consider having them do the runners and the ports (make sure you have the exhaust and intake you're going to be using for a while, because that's what they match it to) and then you do the polish yourself to save money ... and it's kind of fun... open a beer, turn up some music and set at your work bench going to town. Just remember, a little bit at a time... you'll do better if you do the polish in steps... like refinishing paint... medium grit... then finer and finer and finer and finer and finer.... etc... you'll end up with a mirror finish that'll have no resistance to the airflow and thus WAY less turbulence. If you want to understand why it works (if you care) just pick up a "fluid dynamics for dummies" type book and it'll explain why this works. The ideal is to have a nice low reynold's number that yields a laminar flow with little to no turbulence... turbulence to airflow can be likened to resistance to an electrical current...

I used to my own heads when I was running around Florida on old "Iron heads" (70's era sportsters)... I had one that'd boil the rubber on the tires and turn out consistent mid 10 second quarter miles with a 4 spd transmission. Couldn't drive it around town though... it just flat out ran too hot for an air cooled bike. It dynoed out at around 135 hp... that thing was scary. The other one I built for cruising A1A... it was about 80 hp and would run down sport bikes on the highway... When you do a port and polish, you'll have to consider (if you're carbed, which your bike is) new jetting and possibly bigger carbs to keep up with the new fuel demands... especially if you're running cams too... and then you can fine tune it with some velocity stacks to get a little more punch in the RPM band where you prefer it.

I hope this wasn't too long winded... sometimes I over elaborate on stuff and go off into left field. I'm not a "hot rod" guy... but I'm an engineer and a professional mechanic and have a decent bit of heads up on this sort of thing... if you're local and wanna pick my brain, we can meet for coffee and chat about it. I like building stuff, so it's no trouble on my end. Of course, I may ask you to help me with the heavy lifting on my current project... I'm building a cummins pickup into a tractor pull rig... I wrecked my work truck, so it's getting a make over... I'm shooting for 2500 hp out of it... shouldn't be too hard with that diesel and bigger fuel pump and a compound turbo set up. We'll see... LOL

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Old 04-15-2010, 09:11 PM   #7
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Actually John Klaus did a lot of these,Klaus speedworks on the north side
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:09 PM   #8
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mathews View Post
Actually John Klaus did a lot of these,Klaus speedworks on the north side
Klaus Speedworks has been around since that was a new motor, I bet he could help.
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