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Old 12-22-2009, 01:07 PM   #1
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How do I kill Rust in Tank?

Just rebuilt my TW200's motor from base gasket and up, but the gas tank had some gas in it for quite a while and now its got some rust inside. I dont want to run it with the rusty tank, and its almost impossible to buy a new tank without getting bent over by the dealer. I know there is the 2 stage slime coating approach but have had minimal luck with that in the past. Is there any chemical or method to get rid of this rust efficiently. I have heard of putting washer and bolts in there and shaking it all up, but come on, really. Any help would be awesome, thanks in advance, I know someone here has the solution.
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:20 PM   #2
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Dang we just did this to a busa tank, can't remember what we used...


I'll post up when I find out
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:26 PM   #3
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Man dad would put ballbearings in the tanks and shake it and it always seemed to work
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:44 PM   #4
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Kreem (spelling may be wrong).
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:02 PM   #5
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Kreem (spelling may be wrong).
However you spell it. . .it works. Follow the directions exactly as described and you'll be good to go! Just don't get excited and rush the job. We coated an 83 honda tank 6 years ago and it still looks and works great!
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:48 PM   #6
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bbs or other small metal plus shaking works because the rust is alot weaker than the metal. itll knock the rust off without damaging the metal. to avoid random dents, id use something round, like bbs, rather than bolts and washers.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:11 PM   #7
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+1 for BBs and smaller ball bearings.. It really breaks up the rust especially if there is alot.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:16 PM   #8
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sweet thanks guys, I will try the BB's or bearings first, and if that doesn't do it I will try the Kreem. I guess it might help to throw an inline fuel filter on as well for a precaution.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:43 PM   #9
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This is what I have been doing to clean old bike tanks for years. Put gravel in the tank, not the round kind if possible. Wrap the tank in blankets and stuff it into a clothes dryer. Pack blankets or clothes around it to where it cant flounce around much. Turn the dryer on for 30 mins and when that cycle finishes, rotate the tank 90 degrees and do it again. Repeat as necessary. BTW, run the dryer on the cool cycle.
When you dump the gravel out it will be dusty in the tank. Use a vacuum cleaner and compressed air to clean it out.

Last edited by kawasakijockey; 12-22-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:57 PM   #10
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That sounds like it would work for sure, but i am pretty sure my wife would slit my throat in my sleep if the dryer smelled like 2 year old gas afterwards, any thoughts on that predicament, maybe I should go to a laundy mat, haha
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:57 PM   #11
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What ever you do not use Kream. It does not stand up to gas. Even if you follow the directions perfectly it will flake off and clog up your fuel system. It wasn't designed for the ethanol that is now in our gas. I just got done using electrolysis to remove rust from my tank and it worked well, just takes time. You can also have your tank boiled at a radiator shop. My neighbor did this for his tank. It is quicker than electrolysis but you have to pay to have it done. The best way to prevent rust in the future is to use the POR 15 gas tank kit. I know alot of guys that tried the Kream kit a few years ago and are now having to go through the hassle of removing it so they can put the POR 15 kit in.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:42 PM   #12
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pour in a can of b12 chemtool and a handfull of bbs
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:14 PM   #13
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Saw this thread, maybe it'll help you out:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=477759
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:37 PM   #14
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Kreem (spelling may be wrong).
+1

used it on my old rusty Radian Tank
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:39 PM   #15
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That sounds like it would work for sure, but i am pretty sure my wife would slit my throat in my sleep if the dryer smelled like 2 year old gas afterwards, any thoughts on that predicament, maybe I should go to a laundy mat, haha
Wash it out with a detergent solution before and get it completely dry. Wont be a problem.
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:10 PM   #16
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Just about anything acidic will remove the rust (coke, vinegar, CLR) . It's protecting the tank post treatment that is the big issue. You are going to need something to re-create a passive layer between bare metal and gasoline/air interface.
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:21 PM   #17
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small chains if you dont have any sensor or float assemblies that arent removable from the tank.
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Old 12-22-2009, 08:07 PM   #18
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Seems Jason is on to something there - pitted metal would promote more rust growth - seems like it has to be chemically eliminated and then the metal needs coating inside... maybe a combination of the tumbler-method, then chemical, then a coating/electro-plating of some kind?

Then there's this I found... can't comment on truth or value...


There is a very successful 3 step system by KBS Coatings:
Step #1: Klean it with AquaKlean! This remarkable, heavy-duty, water-based concentrate penetrates so deeply and effectively that all contamination and unwanted surface residue is removed. You are left with a completely clean surface which is of utmost importance for a coating's ability to penetrate and permanently adhere.

Step #2: Blast it with RustBlast! This powerful water-based rust remover and zinc phosphate metal etch provides an ideal surface for optimal coverage and permanent adhesion. Your prepared surface now yields enough texture for a deep chemical bonding of any coating to the base metal and rust.

Step #3: Seal it with RustSeal! This incredible, non-porous, flexible coating chemically bonds to metal to permanently seal rust by blocking all pores and locking out moisture and oxygen. RustSeal is so indestructibly tough it won't crack, blister or peel even when exposed to the most aggressive chemicals. Topcoat RustSeal with any paint of your choice if desired, or to protect from dulling in cases where exposure to sunlight will be prolonged.
Source(s):
http://www.kbs-coatings.com
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Old 12-22-2009, 08:20 PM   #19
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, pyro I will look at this in a little more detail, thanks for all the suggestions Motohouston, I will have this thing back on the road in no time, you guys never let me down!
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Old 12-23-2009, 05:25 AM   #20
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+ 1 on the use of POR-15.

This product is sold in a kit specifically for motorcycle tanks. The directons are clear. I've cleaned / sealed two tanks this way and never had a problem after that.
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