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Old 11-08-2009, 03:33 PM   #1
Pedro Navaja
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Question Getting back to an "endless" chain...?

Okay, so today I did some self-training.

1. Went and bought a 520 0-ring chain at a junk yard to practice with. This is the same chain that comes with the CB250 (my choice of low-tech bike for my rides in Mexico). The CB250 comes with an "endless" chain from the factory, i.e., no master link.

2. It was easy to break the chain in multiple places with the breaking tool from RK

3. I thought for field expedient repairs I could just use a generic 520 non 0-ring clip-on master link. The MotionPro non o-ring generic 520 master link won't fit on an 0-ring 520 chain, so that was an important lesson learned in my garage as opposed to out on some lonely Mexican desert, where help won't be coming for me.

4. I was able to rivet on an 0-ring master link, but I am not sure I like this system. The rivet pin is a hollow-head pin. The rivet tool is like a nail punch that goes into a hollow-head pin and then mushrooms it outward to secure the link's side plate. I tested the rivet and it is easily removed simply by prying the side plate off with a screwdriver which will fold back the mushroom. I don't like that!

So, how can I get a rivet that spreads out from a solid-head instead of a hollow-head? I looked at all of the links on my factory installed chain, and all links are solid-head rivets, there is no hollow-head riveted master link being that it is an "endless" chain. How can I get it back to being "endless", and is it possible to do this in a field environment with simple hand tools?

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:20 PM   #2
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There's nothing wrong with using a rivet link that's dimpled so it will spread.
They have been used for years on 600 rwhp drag bikes with no issues, so I doubt you'll have an issue on your CB250.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:09 PM   #3
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What Patrick said, and if U are able to pry it off easily then it wasent installed properely to begin with, I agree almost anything should suffice on that 250, I,ve even used both types on busas, and other high power bikes, no problem
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
There's nothing wrong with using a rivet link that's dimpled so it will spread.
They have been used for years on 600 rwhp drag bikes with no issues, so I doubt you'll have an issue on your CB250.
Patrick,

Thanks for the reply. The folks at Awesome told me about you a few years back.

Just out of curiosity, however, is there a routine way to get the chain back to being "endless", or is that forever gone once the bike leaves the factory and the factory installed chain is replaced/repaired?

Thanks,

Mike

P.S. I also noticed that riveting the hollow-head pin can work to push to pin out if one is not careful.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYIN'DUC View Post
...and if U are able to pry it off easily then it wasent installed properely to begin with...
Installation seemed fine, but pry'd off as easily as a clip-on can be pry'd off if a screwdriver is wedged in behind the plate. The solid-head rivets, however, don't budge. Granted that there's not going to be a lot of force perpendicular to the chain in normal running, just a security issue for me on my remote rides.

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 11-09-2009, 02:02 AM   #6
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You want tires that never go flat too?
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
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You want tires that never go flat too?
That would be nice...smartass

But yeah, flats. This is another one of those things that's a hassle when it occurs out on some lonely Mexican desert road where you can't call MoTow. So like the chain with regular cleaning and lubing, I take some preventive/mitigation measures for flats. In addition to keeping the proper inflation and checking tread depth, I use Ride-On TPS in my tires ==> http://www.ride-on.com/prod_mot.asp I got the tip from the Yahoo! CB250 group and ADVrider.com. The testimonials appear to be good. While it's no guarantee to prevent a flat, this stuff can help you limp to a decent surface to repair the flat yourself, or even to a shop. I also carry one extra tube for each tire for the first flat on the respective tire, and a patch kit in case there is a second flat. There are of course no guarantees, like if a tire gets shredded, but for long rides it's all a question of "risk management". Ya think?
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:51 AM   #8
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It doesn't sound like you had it riveted correctly.
Once done properly the only way to get it off is by grinding the rivet off.

As far as going "endless".
You can buy a factory chain and install it, but you will need to remove the swingarm to do so. Just rivet it properly and you won't have any issues.
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
It doesn't sound like you had it riveted correctly.
Once done properly the only way to get it off is by grinding the rivet off.
Yep, went back and did another practice run. I read the instructions but some how I missed the part about putting the pin seat on the backside of the tool I tried again and it holds just fine . Again the importance of doing this in the garage as practice first, instead of learning during a field breakdown. To date I had only used the clip type of master link.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
As far as going "endless". You can buy a factory chain and install it, but you will need to remove the swingarm to do so. Just rivet it properly and you won't have any issues.
Okay, I think I am over the concern of the hollow-head rivet vs the solid-head rivet. The hollow-head rivet looks good enough.

Thanks Patrick!
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