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Old 10-12-2009, 09:57 PM   #1
Ares
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Shifting to 2nd gear....

Today the sun came out to play around 4-6pm so I took the bike and added more seat time...

There were a couple of instances when I would shift from 1st to 2nd (~ 7-8k rpm) and I would either put the bike on neutral or 2nd would pop out to neutral. Do I need better shifting skills or is something wrong with the chain or elsewhere?

I measured chain slack and it was right on the handbook recommended specs the other day. Chain was cleaned and lubed the other day too.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
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I got the hint and dropped to the back of the ranks just in front of Ares, who btw rocks the outta that 250.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:02 PM   #2
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you're riding a 250

it comes with a positive idiot proof nuetral

aka, its alot diff shifting to 2nd then say on a normal bike

if u notice something wierd thats just the 250 itself

i remember when i first got my TLS, u had to touch it and i mean barely to shift from 1st to N or u got it into 2nd

its been 10yrs but i remember something about kicking it up 2x to get it from 1st to 2nd on the 250

i know for sure the positive nuetral did help me when i was learning on the 250
but ya annoying for 2nd gear
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:04 PM   #3
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I sometimes do it too. Im not assertive enough sometimes. I get lazy and barely bump it. Its common.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:12 PM   #4
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my wife's 250 was bad about that..... just take your time shifting and make it a positive shift. keep in mind it is a low end bike so is the tranny, sometimes even upper end bikes have transmissions.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:34 PM   #5
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Switch to GP and stomp w/o the clutch

Oil level, condition and clutch cable adjustment can be other factors if its a continual problem over how it had been acting previously.
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
I sometimes do it too. Im not assertive enough sometimes. I get lazy and barely bump it. Its common.
This is definitely me. That might be the problem.

As far as oil level, just checked the other day and right between the window. I adjusted the clutch cable to where there is no slack. Friction zone is in the last 1/3 or 1/4 of the clutch. I personally think it's too high but have not figured out how to adjust it from the end of the cable in the engine/clutch side.

Ill try changing my footwork to actually assert more effort in changing to 2nd. If symptoms persist, I'll consult Motorcycles Unlimited.
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I got the hint and dropped to the back of the ranks just in front of Ares, who btw rocks the outta that 250.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:01 AM   #7
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Watch the tension on the cable. If its too tight you will be buying a new clutch real soon. Its about the same as riding the clutch. There should be a little slack at the lever. You should be able to fit a penny or nickel in the gap at the lever.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Watch the tension on the cable. If its too tight you will be buying a new clutch real soon. Its about the same as riding the clutch. There should be a little slack at the lever. You should be able to fit a penny or nickel in the gap at the lever.
I learned that lesson the hard way. Cost me $200+. It's a good thing I had a pit crew to help me install the new clutch. ZXAlan and Bluewave are my heros.....
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Watch the tension on the cable. If its too tight you will be buying a new clutch real soon. Its about the same as riding the clutch. There should be a little slack at the lever. You should be able to fit a penny or nickel in the gap at the lever.
Oh t. I believe I cut the slack to 0 or close to it. Thanks for this info.
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I got the hint and dropped to the back of the ranks just in front of Ares, who btw rocks the outta that 250.
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:04 AM   #10
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Lazy shifting and having it pop out of second into neutral will quickly round off the engagement dogs on the gears and it will get to where it will never stay in second.
Once second gear becomes useless it's transmission rebuild time, and that aint cheap.
Keep clutch adjusted, shift firmly and if it jumps out of second very often sell the bike quick. lol
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
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I learned that lesson the hard way. Cost me $200+. It's a good thing I had a pit crew to help me install the new clutch. ZXAlan and Bluewave are my heros.....
Alan did all of the work. I just provided the ice cold beer.
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Old 10-13-2009, 10:23 AM   #12
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Wear boots.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:06 PM   #13
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Wear boots.
shifting became a breeze after i got my smx-5's
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
Watch the tension on the cable. If its too tight you will be buying a new clutch real soon. Its about the same as riding the clutch. There should be a little slack at the lever. You should be able to fit a penny or nickel in the gap at the lever.
the nickel is a good 'visual' judge. The book generally says 10mm freeplay (wiggle room) at the end of the lever
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