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Old 10-15-2009, 09:47 PM   #21
agentjayjay
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i'm low on cash (like $78 to my name low). hmm. is there an awesome guide out there?
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:42 PM   #22
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if you can get it to Motorcycles Unlimited, they will do a visual inspection for free. There's always the chance that you may not need a carb clean.

The other alternative that I would suggest, is to drain the fuel from the carb bowls (usually a phillips screw on the bottom of the bowl facing sideways), and try starting the bike with the choke on and a little throttle.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:23 AM   #23
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i would glad to help you out but 1-i don't know where myerland is 2-i want some riding this weekend !!! re-schedule may be ???
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:07 PM   #24
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i looked at it, the only screw sideways on the carbs is a torx screw. what if it was just the spark plugs needing cleaning? i live near the intersection of w.orem and s.post oak.
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:07 PM   #25
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what if it the battery is just dead? what if i am overthinking this?
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:21 PM   #26
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i used to be a tech at a Kawasaki dealer. If you told me exactly what you posted in the first post I would immediately tell the service adviser to write you up for a carb rebuild/clean up job.
you take the fuel tank off, disconnect the fuel lines and vacuum lines to the carbs, take the air cleaner box as much out of the way as you can, disconnect the throttle cables from the carbs, loosed the clamps on teh cabs and pull em out. remove the caps and diaphragms with needles from teh top, then from teh bottom remove the bowls. once the bowls are off you take the float out as well as the jets. i then put the body of the carb in an agitating cleaning tank, while the jets soak in a small bowl of solvent. Run soemthing through the jets (wire or a welding tip cleaner tool), in this case the smaller pair of the jets are most likely closed completely, since they control low rpm/low throttle fuel flow. after the carbs soaked for an hour or two i would then wash it all with water, blow it dry with shop air and re-assemble.

I used to have 250s and 500s i did this on every 3 months due to lack of regular use, when you clean the carbs (3 times in one summer) on a 2 year old bike with 90 miles on it it shows you how much that bike sits...
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:16 PM   #27
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at the risk of sounding stupid, where would i find an agitating tank?
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:30 PM   #28
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what if i took the carbs out myself, and then handed it to a mechanic to fix, would that be cheaper?
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Old 10-20-2009, 12:37 AM   #29
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from reading your 1st post, i was thinking low battery. hook some jumper cables up to your car battery and then to your bike's positive and a ground. start the car, attempt to start the bike. maybe it will work. if so, yay, because it's free and you can ride again
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Old 10-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentjayjay View Post
at the risk of sounding stupid, where would i find an agitating tank?
a machine shop or repair shop.
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Old 10-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentjayjay View Post
what if i took the carbs out myself, and then handed it to a mechanic to fix, would that be cheaper?
should be since they do not hae to go through the hassle of taking the carbs off.
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:02 AM   #32
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Sitting for 2 months does not seem too long.
Besure the battery is charged a that you have spark and then why not try a squirt of ether (engine starting fluid)

If it starts and dies more than 5 times then get into the cardbs
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:36 AM   #33
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Best tip I ever got for carb bikes is Seafoam. Add it to the tank every few fillups and especially if you plan on parking it for a while. Also keep the tank full, as the gas will suck up moisture and rust the inside of the tank.

Carbs aren't voodoo (unless you are a youngster raised on EFI); I would offer some help but I am outta town.
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:57 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
Best tip I ever got for carb bikes is Seafoam. Add it to the tank every few fillups and especially if you plan on parking it for a while. Also keep the tank full, as the gas will suck up moisture and rust the inside of the tank.

Carbs aren't voodoo (unless you are a youngster raised on EFI); I would offer some help but I am outta town.


I was about to correct you on the voodoo statement, but then read the youngster part. I couldn't even tell ya what a bowl, jet, needle, etc. . . looked like.
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:05 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Princess View Post
I was about to correct you on the voodoo statement, but then read the youngster part. I couldn't even tell ya what a bowl, jet, needle, etc. . . looked like.
I lived, breathed and ate Solex, Holley and Quadrajets.. back in the late 70's and 80's anyhow...
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:49 PM   #36
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i tried emptying the tank, putting new gas, still no go.
tried the jumper cables, still no go, i even tried my dad's clamp-on voltmeter gun @ the spark plug cable, no go. added distilled water to the battery, same problem.

my dad thinks its the ignition coil. i'm not sure what is the problem, and i now i am totally clueless.

(on a side note, if i just put it on a truck and took it somewhere, what's the ballpark on how much to get it working again?)


EDIT: maybe i am not getting spark?

Last edited by agentjayjay; 01-17-2010 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:45 AM   #37
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spark is easy to check for. Pull off a cable when you are cranking it.

nonononononono...don't do that..it hurts. It will bite you right through the insulation.

I'm not sure the best way, but what I do is pull the plug out of the engine, put the boot back on the plug. Ground the electrode of the plug to the engine block and then crank the engine...if there is spark. you have your answer.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:46 AM   #38
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I'm 2 for 2 with carb cleaning recently...I know nothing about how they work (as far as adjustments are concerned), but just tearing them down, cleaning the pilot jets things with carb cleaner and thin wire and then blowing them out with compressed air has done me good. One was a pitbike, the other a SCAG lawn mower that hadn't been started in 7 years. I should read up on how they work and how to mess with the adjustments...I just remove, tear down, and put back the way I found it.
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:41 AM   #39
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Go buy a can of seafoam... (white can, red letters)
Remove said carb from bike.
completely submerge carb in seafoam for 24 hrs.
pour out what's left in the carb.
let dry for a few minutes
reinstall.

I also rinse out the gas tank with seafoam if the gas has been sitting a while. KEEP SEAFOAM STOCKED IN YOUR GARAGE AT ALL TIMES. there are just so many uses. next time your bike is gonna sit for a while, you can pour seafoam into the gas tank to stabilize the fuel.
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:48 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PimpDaub View Post
Go buy a can of seafoam... (white can, red letters)
Remove said carb from bike.
completely submerge carb in seafoam for 24 hrs.
pour out what's left in the carb.
let dry for a few minutes
reinstall.

I also rinse out the gas tank with seafoam if the gas has been sitting a while. KEEP SEAFOAM STOCKED IN YOUR GARAGE AT ALL TIMES. there are just so many uses. next time your bike is gonna sit for a while, you can pour seafoam into the gas tank to stabilize the fuel.
make sure to remove all them seals and rubber before you go dunking your carb for 24 hours. I'm pretty sure that stuff eats up rubber...but I may be wrong.
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