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Old 09-08-2009, 02:46 PM   #1
Davekg
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Maintenance schedule on 08 CBR1k

I was calling around motorcycle shops today for clarification, think they are all closed. What is recommended miles for oil change on CBR1k on second change the manual says 8k but that seems a little much to me. I was thinking 3 or 4k.
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Old 09-08-2009, 02:51 PM   #2
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I stick to 3k at the very most.
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Old 09-08-2009, 03:32 PM   #3
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3-5k is the normal. Synthetic oil will last longer but the oil filter will start to disintegrate. I usually run a scotts or other wire mesh filter and change every 3k on bikes and 5k on cars. Cleaning the chain and re-lubricating is important also. Dont have an owners manual with that new bike?
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:48 AM   #4
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3-5k is the normal. Synthetic oil will last longer but the oil filter will start to disintegrate. I usually run a scotts or other wire mesh filter and change every 3k on bikes and 5k on cars. Cleaning the chain and re-lubricating is important also. Dont have an owners manual with that new bike?
I do have an owners manual and the schedule say 8k between oil changes that seems like to much for me
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:51 AM   #5
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I do have an owners manual and the schedule say 8k between oil changes that seems like to much for me
I wouldn't wait that long.
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:12 AM   #6
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:54 AM   #7
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I change mine about every 3k.
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The eccense of riding is defying gravity by supplimenting inertia, defying the concerns of loved ones for the therapy of adrenaline.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Vipond View Post
It depends on the oil. I change AMSOIL oil and filter every 12,000 miles in my BMW, which is double the 6,000 mile BMW recommendation, for the past 126,000 miles, verified by used oil analysis. Not all oil performs the same according to this comparison of 32 oils https://www.amsoil.com/products/stre...spx?zo=1181889 .

Looks like I might be switching from the motul 300v that I've been running in the duc.
That stuff has some pretty lousy gear protection according to those tests.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Vipond View Post
It depends on the oil. I change AMSOIL oil and filter every 12,000 miles in my BMW, which is double the 6,000 mile BMW recommendation, for the past 126,000 miles, verified by used oil analysis. Not all oil performs the same according to this comparison of 32 oils https://www.amsoil.com/products/stre...spx?zo=1181889 .
graphs are kind of cheesey and look like they were made by a 4 year old, as well seems kind of biased since its on amsoil's website.
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The eccense of riding is defying gravity by supplimenting inertia, defying the concerns of loved ones for the therapy of adrenaline.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:59 AM   #10
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:40 PM   #11
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Old 09-12-2009, 10:11 PM   #12
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Here is what ASE thinks of 3K oil changes:

This SAE paper explains it.....
Thatís all fine and dandy but what does this have to do with the majority of motorcycles that are wet clutch?
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Vipond View Post
Here is what ASE thinks of 3K oil changes:

This SAE paper explains it:

Originally Posted by ://www.sae.org
"Title: Extended Oil Drain Intervals - Conservation of Resources Or Reduction of Engine Life (Part Ii)"
After reading that you may never change your oil again at even 10,000 miles!

There are millions of miles of oil analysis that not only prove short duration changes increase wear but also result in a lack of additive activation in the motor. If you own a Jiffy Lube then I would expect you to subscribe to the "3,000 mile Mentality" myth.

Oil additives are activated by heat and pressure. Due to the additives having to hold up over time i.e. longer than 10,000 miles the formulations take a certain period of time to become active in protecting the motor. Draining the oil at lets say 3,000 miles simply means the additives have just become active at the point you are draining your oil! In other words you are increasing wear by about 500% doing 3,000 mile drain intervals!

Oils that carry the extended drain ratings such as 506.01, 507.00 etc mean that the additives are formulated to remain active for periods up to 2 years, 40,000 kms or 640 hours of usage. Oils like Mobil 1 0w40 are formulated to withstand 400F sump temps WITHOUT breaking down and losing viscosity. Furthermore the oils cannot break down due to the PAO makeup of the oil. These oils do not rely on elastomers like the conventional oils do. This means that the oil can fully protect your motor at any temperature without the concern of thermal break-down and thinning out of grade.

If you doubt the 10K oil change intervals perform an oil sample at 1,000 miles. Most cars with a fresh sump of oil will peak out at the 1,000 mile mark. After that the wear metals may increase by only 5-10% over the course of 10,000 miles! Nearly 90% of the engine wear occurs in the first 1,000 miles on an oil change! Increasing oil change frequency increases the duration your engine spends in the activation period of the additives and greatly increases the damage in your motor from failing to follow the guidelines of the manufacturer.

Just looking at iron in a VW motor typical readings are around 20-35 ppm after 15,000 miles of use maximum on a motor that has more than 60,000 miles. The oil filter is not capable of filtering this much metal simply because the wear metals are so small they can't be filtered from the oil. Also because there is so little wear metal you do not get wear as a result of the metal being suspended in the oil.

Dispersants require time to bond to the wear metals and byproducts in your engine oil. As byproducts such as soot (gasoline or diesel make soot just different sizes which discolor the oil) are created additives coat them and prevent them from clumping and becoming larger. Typical soot particles in diesel oil are in the nanometer range in terms of size 10 times smaller than what any bypass filter can even capture which is rated at 2 microns absolute. Your oil filter in your motor is rated at capturing particles in the 7 micron range with only a 75% first pass rating...Bottom line is your car would last forever if you change the oil every 20,000 miles and NEVER replace the oil filter simply because your motor is not making enough metal or by-products to ever get captured! Oils especially those for diesels can handle upwards of 8% soot, that my friend is a LOT of soot! To put that in perspective a typical motor after 25,000 miles without an oil change or filter change will only have 1% soot in the oil. This oil will appear tar black yet the oil still has 80% of its rated levels of protection remaining!

Most oils are limited by time in the sump rather than miles due to sulfur in the fuel. Most gasoline motors can safely go 2 years between changes when using quality oils formulated for extended drains such as Mobil 1 0w40 and Truck and SUV 5w40. These oils along with those sold as VOW 506.01 have very high TBN ratings that neutralize acid formation for upwards of two years (1 year in diesels due to higher sulfur content which causes the acids).

Here's the deal, forget the myths about frequent oil changes and basing your perceptions on how the oil looks. The best advice is use a quality oil and drain it at the specified interval. The worst thing you can do to a modern car is over maintain it, yes this is possible due to the very specific regimen that VW engineers figured out to keep your car running at peak performance with maximum durability. It's really simple...the oil change places out there make $$$ by you coming in every 2 months. Any decent dino oil will go 5000 miles. A PAO or ester based synthetic, 8000 miles easy (just change the filter at 4K). If you do analysis, you can go even longer. Of course this assumes your motor is in good shape...i.e you don't have dilution or contamination issues.
Show me something more relevant to motorcycles, and I might put some idea of believe this load of bullshit.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:33 AM   #14
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:35 AM   #15
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Last edited by Tim Vipond; 09-13-2009 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:17 PM   #16
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Everything. You don't know if your oil is performing well in your application unless you have it tested. If you change it too early, you could be increasing your wear. The oil and motorcycle manufacturers have it already figured out. But the 3K oil change guys don't. They are making the oil companies richer, wasting natural resources, and polluting the environment.
Again, what does an article concerning automotive engines have to do with motorcycles that run significant hotter with less oil capacity, at double/triple the rpms with the transmission shearing the oil? You might as well post a link to oil changing intervals for diesel tractor rigs.
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:26 PM   #17
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Last edited by Tim Vipond; 09-13-2009 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:31 PM   #18
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Just remember as Patrick says, "Oil is cheap, engines are not!"
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:38 PM   #19
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Last edited by Tim Vipond; 09-13-2009 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 03:18 PM   #20
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With a new motor, I'd change it REALLY, REALLY early. Your first few oil changes (in my experience) are usually pretty "sparkly" as the engine gets broken-in.

After break-in is (maybe) another thing entirely.
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