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Old 07-19-2009, 12:09 AM   #1
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Question Installing accessory power adapter AKA cigarette lighter

I want to install one on my bike. I have the location squared away under the seat but want to ask these questions before I wire it up.

1) Straight to battery or should I wire it up so that it is only hot when the key is on?

- straight to battery is easy and obvious but I am concerned about draining the battery. Is there an easy way to monitor the voltage use so that I don't drain the battery

- if to the key where should I tap into the power? (anyone know where to find the wiring diagram for the 2008 GSX650F online?)

2) What is size fuse would you recommend?

Any other suggestions?
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:12 AM   #2
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The direct to battery or running from ignition is your choice. Either way you want at the MOST a 5amp fuse. On a car 10A is acceptible, on a bike its going to eat the battery if anything you run aux is anywhere close to 10A.
Either way I would wire up a switch so that you always have a choice to kill it if needed.

The easiest way to wire it to be on only when the bike is on is via the headlight fuse.

Monitoring the voltage can be done via a voltage guage. Depending on what you are running, it may or may not be that big of a deal. If you are planning on taping huge searchlights to the bike, yes you probably want one. A cellphone charger, on the other hand, does not drain that much power.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:15 AM   #3
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I did this about 6 months ago my ZX-14...really easy...i just wired it straight to the battery and havent had any problems...I even leave my bike off for 2 weeks max and it doesnt drain my batt...I would say a 5amp fuse is sufficient...make sure its within 6 in of the batter though...hardest this is where to mount it

I looked every where for all the materials...radio shack, pep boys and other hardware stores...go to walmart!! they have self closing environmetally sealed acc plugs for RV's that work perfect
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:16 AM   #4
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I was going to suggest PM'ing Redux when I saw the thread title, but then I noticed he was the first respondent.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:17 AM   #5
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I did this about 6 months ago my ZX-14...really easy...i just wired it straight to the battery and havent had any problems...I even leave my bike off for 2 weeks max and it doesnt drain my batt...I would say a 5amp fuse is sufficient...make sure its within 6 in of the batter though...hardest this is where to mount it

I looked every where for all the materials...radio shack, pep boys and other hardware stores...go to walmart!! they have self closing environmetally sealed acc plugs for RV's that work perfect
I'm confused about the 6-inches one.
You can buy the nice insulated socket BMW puts on their adventure-touring bikes from the dealer and wire it in yourself.

PM me if you need help getting it all figured out. I still have a bunch of stuff left over from wiring up a few bikes with cellphone chargers.

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I was going to suggest PM'ing Redux when I saw the thread title, but then I noticed he was the first respondent.

Last edited by Redux; 07-19-2009 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:22 AM   #6
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make sure the fuse is within 6 in of the battery...whats so confusing...you dont put fuses away from the power source....to much wire btwn the fuse and the battery you can get a short and well u just defeated to purpose of the fuse...

where are the fuses on most cars? Usually located near the battery
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:25 AM   #7
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make sure the fuse is within 6 in of the battery...whats so confusing...you dont put fuses away from the power source....to much wire btwn the fuse and the battery you can get a short and well u just defeated to purpose of the fuse...

where are the fuses on most cars? Usually located near the battery
That's a pretty common misconception. There is really no correlation, in fact more wire = more resistance. Improper wire gauge / poor or un-soldered connections is what causes shorts. The location of the fusebox has nothing to do with the proximity of the battery. IE A Honda Interceptor has the fusebox right under the right blinker in the front of the bike. Just about every BMW and Jaguar has the battery in the trunk and the fuse box about... 5 feet away from it in the engine compartment.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:30 AM   #8
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so wires dont chaffe? I guess we all live in a perfect world where everything goes right...I'm pretty sure BMW and Jag are not backyard mechanics too and engineer there harness to not have any chaffing points...

better be safe than sorry..we are talking about a motorcycle where the vibrations are plentiful and there are alot of straight edges that chaffe....ur right about more wire=more resistance and to large guage of wire cold solder joints ect....
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:31 AM   #9
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This is what I am using from Radio shack. (The "box" is detachable as well) Wal-mart has basically the same thing too. Sits in the tank bag for now. Charges my iPhone and has been hooked directly to the battery since my trip in May.
But I like Redux's answer better.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:38 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by BYRDMAN View Post
so wires dont chaffe? I guess we all live in a perfect world where everything goes right...I'm pretty sure BMW and Jag are not backyard mechanics too and engineer there harness to not have any chaffing points...

better be safe than sorry..we are talking about a motorcycle where the vibrations are plentiful and there are alot of straight edges that chaffe....ur right about more wire=more resistance and to large guage of wire cold solder joints ect....
We are not any less smart than the said BMW mechanics. You can always make the wires run either along or inside the existing harness. Modern wires are very much resistant to chaffing and rotting. You can use zip-ties, loops, insulated soldered plugs etc etc.

It all comes down to where the poster wants to put the connector.

If the socket is desired at the front of the bike, I would suggest either running your own supply wire from the battery to the front or stealing some power from the headlight. Add a fuse closer to the socket to make the entire circuit serviceable/removable easier.

If he wants to put it in the seat/right near the battery, then, obviously there is not much choice there.

I generally do not splice into any existing wires on the motorcycle, as it adds another trouble point if something breaks within the circuit. Thus I usually build an axillary circuit or use an add-a-fuse
Installing accessory power adapter AKA cigarette lighter

Last edited by Redux; 07-19-2009 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:42 AM   #11
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Rule number two is that any time an electrical accessory is added, make certain there is a fuse already in place or that one is placed somewhere in the circuit as close to the power source as possible. By locating the fuse at the supply end of the circuit, a short will cause the fuse to blow before the wire heats up and the circuit is damaged. If the fuse is located at the component end of the circuit, a short will burn the wiring between the source and the fuse before the fuse blows.

taken from http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...ips/index.html
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redux View Post
The direct to battery or running from ignition is your choice. Either way you want at the MOST a 5amp fuse. On a car 10A is acceptable, on a bike its going to eat the battery if anything you run aux is anywhere close to 10A.
Either way I would wire up a switch so that you always have a choice to kill it if needed.

The easiest way to wire it to be on only when the bike is on is via the headlight fuse.

Monitoring the voltage can be done via a voltage guage. Depending on what you are running, it may or may not be that big of a deal. If you are planning on taping huge searchlights to the bike, yes you probably want one. A cellphone charger, on the other hand, does not drain that much power.
Thanks for the advice.

I want to carry a pump similar to this one:
http://www.slime.com/product/111/Pow...340001%29.html

It requires an 8 amps so I was thinking of using a 10amp fuse (and 14ga wire).

So are you suggesting that I tap off the headlight wire after the fuse box? Won't that cause a problem pulling too much juice when the light is on and the plug is also drawing power?
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:51 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYRDMAN View Post
Rule number two is that any time an electrical accessory is added, make certain there is a fuse already in place or that one is placed somewhere in the circuit as close to the power source as possible. By locating the fuse at the supply end of the circuit, a short will cause the fuse to blow before the wire heats up and the circuit is damaged. If the fuse is located at the component end of the circuit, a short will burn the wiring between the source and the fuse before the fuse blows.

taken from http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...ips/index.html
I really hate to question this, but that is not... eh
Let me explain a short is not always too much current flowing through the circuit. The tip states that "make certain there is a fuse already in place" that fuse can be practically anywhere. Not all circuits will "heat up and fry." Then there is also the issue with this statement "If the fuse is located at the component end of the circuit, a short will burn the wiring between the source and the fuse before the fuse blows." That simply assumes that the "source" is the source of the short, not the other way around. And I have to really... really raise my eye-brow at someone using tap-in connectors like they have in their pictures. THAT is, from my experience, the devil of autozone electics.

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Old 07-19-2009, 12:53 AM   #14
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im confused with ur first statment but your spot on with the tap in connectors...would never use those...that wiring job looks like a birds nest!!!

the theory of what they were saying is correct though...

seems like we are at a stalemate (sp?) either way bioguru cant go wrong with either advice
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:55 AM   #15
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Thanks for the advice.

I want to carry a pump similar to this one:
http://www.slime.com/product/111/Pow...340001%29.html

It requires an 8 amps so I was thinking of using a 10amp fuse (and 14ga wire).

So are you suggesting that I tap off the headlight wire after the fuse box? Won't that cause a problem pulling too much juice when the light is on and the plug is also drawing power?
That is a pretty high-drain device, so I would NOT wire that into the headlight. I assumed you were looking to charge a cellphone or iPod.
In this case, you definitely want to avoid touching or splicing into any existing wires on the bike, as 8A is deadly to most things on it. Look at the wires that will come with the pump. Use same gauge or lower (lower number = fatter wire) and, of course, a fuse. Attach to battery and, being a paranoid me, I would add either a relay or a switch to make sure it OFF when I am not using it.

Also, you will want to have the engine running when using the pump.

Last edited by Redux; 07-19-2009 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 07-19-2009, 01:00 AM   #16
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im confused with ur first statment but your spot on with the tap in connectors...would never use those...that wiring job looks like a birds nest!!!

the theory of what they were saying is correct though...

seems like we are at a stalemate (sp?) either way bioguru cant go wrong with either advice
It has a point from their application - they are cannibalizing existing wires. The theory, however, is very questionable. Current flows in two directions. Fuse placement is really, irrelevant for the purpose of installing something on a bike. Existing fuses on bikes/cars are placed together in a spot for convenience, not proximity to battery source.

You can go into extremes and present a circuit where the fuse is located extremely far from the device that you are trying to protect, and yes, in that case, the wiring will soak up the current and the fuse will not blow in time.
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Old 07-19-2009, 01:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redux View Post
That is a pretty high-drain device, so I would NOT wire that into the headlight. I assumed you were looking to charge a cellphone or iPod.
In this case, you definitely want to avoid touching or splicing into any existing wires on the bike, as 8A is deadly to most things on it. Look at the wires that will come with the pump. Use same gauge or lower (lower number = fatter wire) and, of course, a fuse. Attach to battery and, being a paranoid me, I would add either a relay or a switch to make sure it OFF when I am not using it.

Also, you will want to have the engine running when using the pump.
Ok thanks. That makes it easier anyway.

Should I wire the negative back to the battery or just run it into the frame?
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Old 07-19-2009, 01:03 AM   #18
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Ok thanks. That makes it easier anyway.

Should I wire the negative back to the battery or just run it into the frame?
Since you are already running a wire for the positive, connect it to the battery - better safe than sorry.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:31 AM   #19
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I have hooked it up to test but still need to get some ring terminals to make a pretty power connection. Also need to decide where exactly to put the fuse and the switch so I can access them easily. I mounted it far enough back so I can run my cell phone charger while riding. Also tested it with the pump and it works great. Apologies for not taking pics of the wiring I will try to remember to do that next time I take off the plastics.

Installing accessory power adapter AKA cigarette lighter

Installing accessory power adapter AKA cigarette lighter

Installing accessory power adapter AKA cigarette lighter
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:36 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bioGuru View Post
I want to install one on my bike. I have the location squared away under the seat but want to ask these questions before I wire it up.

1) Straight to battery or should I wire it up so that it is only hot when the key is on?

- straight to battery is easy and obvious but I am concerned about draining the battery. Is there an easy way to monitor the voltage use so that I don't drain the battery

- if to the key where should I tap into the power? (anyone know where to find the wiring diagram for the 2008 GSX650F online?)

2) What is size fuse would you recommend?

Any other suggestions?
Everything you need you can get from walmart, get the plug, a fuse holder, a fuse, 10A should be more than enough, and some splice connectors. Tap anything that is +12v switched, the taillight (not brake, running light, or the headlights are good places to start. A multimeter is your friend. There should be a ground running to the taillight as well, but if all else fails you can run it to the negative terminal at the battery.
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