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Old 07-15-2009, 12:25 PM   #21
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Should one also make note to not use tap water, but use distilled water due to many minerals that can cause deposits in the radiator?
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrofallout View Post
Should one also make note to not use tap water, but use distilled water due to many minerals that can cause deposits in the radiator?
Actually, I mentioned that in my post.
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Richards View Post
Actually, I mentioned that in my post.
Ah, that's what I get for not reading.


I was pretty sure that was the case, I have flushed rads before with the water hose just to get everything out and clean but when mixing i have always used distilled water, its cheap enough.
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:12 PM   #24
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Remember straight water boils at 212*F, therefore if you are ripping around the track under heavy throttle or worse yet, at slower speeds at high rpms(like 2nd gear stuff), its possible your bike will hit that 212* pretty easy, thus starting the boiling process.....not good.

The Water Wetter helps with this some but.....your best bet is to stay 50/50 anti-freeze/distilled water IF the track allows it. A good 50/50 blend won't start to boil until 226* but will still protect up to about 250*....
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:52 PM   #25
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yea coolant has properties to raise the boiling point of the mixture. also it lowers the freezing point (hence the name antifreeze)

anyways i run yamaha brand coolant in my bike and yamaha full synthetic oil for the engine
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:31 PM   #26
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It boils at 212 at atmos. pressure. Thats why the rad. is built to contain some pressure. It raises the boiling point above operating temps.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:45 PM   #27
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Engine Ice raises over boil temps to 256F

http://www.engineice.cc/
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:03 AM   #28
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Quote:
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It boils at 212 at atmos. pressure. Thats why the rad. is built to contain some pressure. It raises the boiling point above operating temps.


Yeah good point.....thats why there is the whole 15psi cap thing going on.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:49 PM   #29
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Engine ice is slick and is prohibited in the CMRA. Motul has Mocool out and it has been working great at the track for us.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Engine ice is slick and is prohibited in the CMRA. Motul has Mocool out and it has been working great at the track for us.
-Gabe
I thought engine ice was just premixed water wetter.
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:11 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intermission View Post
I thought engine ice was just premixed water wetter.
engine ice is still a glycol based antifreeze product. its' the glycol in antifreeze both, propylene (engine ice) and ethylene (traditional green), that causes the slick residue that tracks frown upon. motul mocool or straight water+water wetter are the preferred, and required, race santioned coolants.
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:12 PM   #32
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I have never used it but I have heard that it has glycol in it and that is the slick part of antifreeze.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:40 PM   #33
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Antifreeze also stops the water from eating the aluminum as well as lubing the water pump seals. I don't see any significant cooling when running straight distilled.
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Old 09-19-2009, 12:01 AM   #34
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Quote:
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Antifreeze also stops the water from eating the aluminum as well as lubing the water pump seals. I don't see any significant cooling when running straight distilled.
correct, straight distilled water will only cool marginally better than a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix because the surface tension of the water prohibits it from reaching it's max potential. thats how water wetter makes water "wetter." it breaks the surface tension so there is better/more heat transfer. also, since an emulsified solution it also raises the boiling point slightly, much like adding salt to a boiling pot of water.
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