YSR ?s

[Jason_Canuck]

I realize YSRs are somewhat underpowered versus many of today's minis, but I've heard that YSR Only Class is being formed. So for someone with limited track experience and who wants to go out and have fun (read: I understand I won't be all that competitive) how would this bike fair?

[Scorpio]

I'd just get a NSR. You can pick them up from $1000 - $2000 and they also have their own classes to race. Better chassis, better brakes, better suspension. Thats not to say a good rider can't go fast on a YSR, but for my money, I'd go with the NSR.('04 and up)

[Jason_Canuck]

I'd just get a NSR. You can pick them up from $1000 - $2000 and they also have their own classes to race. Better chassis, better brakes, better suspension. Thats not to say a good rider can't go fast on a YSR, but for my money, I'd go with the NSR.('04 and up)

I didn't realize NSRs were that "inexpensive". The reason I bring up the YSR, is that I've seen more than one listed less than $1000.

[Godsuki]

YRS's are slow. Go with the NSR/NSF

[Jason_Canuck]

YRS's are slow. Go with the NSR/NSF

Speed will not be a function of bike but rather rider.

How many riders generally compete in the NSR class (sprint and endurance)?

[hotnanas]

i'd still like to sell my nsr for $1500...

but i'd also like to keep it too!

there are a lot of NSRs running around the TMGP races (sprint and endurance).

[jodyhudson]

i'd still like to sell my nsr for $1500...

but i'd also like to keep it too!

there are a lot of NSRs running around the TMGP races (sprint and endurance).

can you PM me sum pics of ur NSR if u really wanna sell it. i have a freind who is interested. thanx :D

[Jason_Canuck]

If I could get a KLX110 for under $900 is that a decent deal, and what would it cost to convert it?

[BlackWidow]

If I could get a KLX110 for under $900 is that a decent deal, and what would it cost to convert it?

Too much. :nod:

Just buy a CRF100 instead (already has clutch and 5 gears) and convert that if you must "convert".

That I know you can do in a cheap way.

Buy CRF100 - $1200-1400
Buy CRF80 front wheel - $25-35
Lace BT45s on front 16 wheel & rear 16 wheel) - $100.
Safety Wire - $25 + some of your time.

Voila, close to $1500 you can have a mean machine ready to race in TMGP/CMRA minis/play around on.

Now every month as you save up money and do some more mods, like full exhaust, bark busters, disc brake setup etc etc. But its a great easy way to start out.

The same can be done to KLX110 - but my concern with that is you have to buy some extra stuff to make it hang in stock form intially (like a clutch $150-200, then 4th gear drum $40, no 16s option, your only choice is 12s, definitly needs a big bar kit intially since its soo small, etc etc).

And the $150-200 is for the semi clutch, if you want full clutch (Which I do recommend), I hear the whole process can cost as mush as $500-600 (ask MadSeason racing). I think he spent close to $600 on his CRF70 3 spee auto. :/:

So in my opinion, if its between KLX110 - CRF100, go with the CRF100.

If its between the YSR50 & NSR50, go with the NSR50. Sure you'd spend $100-300 more intially (purchase), but both the CRF100 & NSR50 will pay off in the long run and with mods (basic).

Feel free to PM me if you want futher information, I own 2 CRF100s, have had 3 NSR50s, a YSR50, a YXR100, KLX110 - so I kinda got a good idea of what I'm talking about. :keke::/:

[Jason_Canuck]

Too much. :nod:

Just buy a CRF100 instead (already has clutch and 5 gears) and convert that if you must "convert".

That I know you can do in a cheap way.

Buy CRF100 - $1200-1400
Buy CRF80 front wheel - $25-35
Lace BT45s on front 16 wheel & rear 16 wheel) - $100.
Safety Wire - $25 + some of your time.

Voila, close to $1500 you can have a mean machine ready to race in TMGP/CMRA minis/play around on.

Now every month as you save up money and do some more mods, like full exhaust, bark busters, disc brake setup etc etc. But its a great easy way to start out.

The same can be done to KLX110 - but my concern with that is you have to buy some extra stuff to make it hang in stock form intially (like a clutch $150-200, then 4th gear drum $40, no 16s option, your only choice is 12s, definitly needs a big bar kit intially since its soo small, etc etc).

And the $150-200 is for the semi clutch, if you want full clutch (Which I do recommend), I hear the whole process can cost as mush as $500-600 (ask MadSeason racing). I think he spent close to $600 on his CRF70 3 spee auto. :/:

So in my opinion, if its between KLX110 - CRF100, go with the CRF100.

If its between the YSR50 & NSR50, go with the NSR50. Sure you'd spend $100-300 more intially (purchase), but both the CRF100 & NSR50 will pay off in the long run and with mods (basic).

Feel free to PM me if you want futher information, I own 2 CRF100s, have had 3 NSR50s, a YSR50, a YXR100, KLX110 - so I kinda got a good idea of what I'm talking about. :keke::/:


Thanks for taking the time to spell out the major advantages of going another route.

[BlackWidow]

Thanks for taking the time to spell out the major advantages of going another route.

Your welcome.

I asked and asked - but only a few helped me. I am currently in the process of selling a KLX110 & a CRF100 - to fund the build of another CRF100. It'll be money well spent.

I built the KLX110 to its best, but it was just requiring too much $$$ and not enough out come, with the CRF100, I did minimum mods, like 16 inch street $45 tires and full exhaust and it was already running decent lap times. That's what made me realize it.

The KLX110 I have for sale is pretty much spoken for, but If your interested in a CRF100 shoot me a PM and I'll work out a deal with you and we can both just build the bikes together, minez gonna only have the wheel mods (intially) and bark busters, that's it. After a few months - I'll go with a full system and maybe better/bigger carb.

Either way - have fun :)!