to map or not to map!

[H2447INTX]

ok i have the yoshi tri ovel race bolt ons and k&n filter comeing for my 06 busa, i have been told by stubbs that i need to remap, $70,! i called another dealer in leage city and they say they do not map for just slip ons, so what should i do, go with stubbs and remap or would it make that big a diff! patrick or any other shop owners help! any one help!

[Whoop]

It's very simple. Install your new stuff and ride your bike for a few days. If you like the way it runs then your all good. If not, map and then maybe dyno.

[Dub_B83]

I have heard it is a good idea to remap my bike because you get rid of a baffle and a few other parts that affect back pressure. This changes how your engine burns fuel and how clean it burns the fuel... If you install it and it runs really rich your going to be needing that new map.

[H2447INTX]

I HAD A 600 THAT I MODDED OUT AND I KNOW HOW THE FULL SYS, AFF THE BIKE, HAD A BIG FLAT SPOT IN THE MID RANGE POWER AND I WILL MOST LIKELY GET IT REMAPED BUT WHY WOULD STUBBS SAY YOU NEED TO AND THE OTHER SHOP SAY THEY ONLY DO FULL SYS? SOUNDS KINDA FUNNY TO ME !

[mammothmc]

Mapping for a slip on is not required, but you're not getting all the performance you paid for in the pipe if you don't. That & mapping done correctly will get rid of the lean popping you're likely hearing in the exhaust

[witchdoctor575]

to get the full potential out of the slip on a remap is recommended. Since you have a k&n I would say it is mandatory. The filter changes the air flow the the engine and it could be running a little lean with the s/o and the filter combined.

[H2447INTX]

WELL PUT THEM ON TODAY, TRI OVEL RACE (NO BAFFLES) SO I WILL RIDE THIS WEEKEND AND PUT THE K&N IN ON TUESDAY, HAVE STUBBS REMAP ON FRIDAY! SHOULD BE GOOD FOR THE WEEKEND

[07Blanco]

ok i have the yoshi tri ovel race bolt ons and k&n filter comeing for my 06 busa, i have been told by stubbs that i need to remap, $70,! i called another dealer in leage city and they say they do not map for just slip ons, so what should i do, go with stubbs and remap or would it make that big a diff! patrick or any other shop owners help! any one help!


If you do not already have one, order a PCIII from Brock's Racing with a custom map already installed which comes with after the sale support (alternate maps) for $339.00. Get a map and get the full potential from your bike.


http://shop.brocksperformance.com/Categories.bok?category=Fuel+-+Ignition+Control%3ASuzuki%3AHayabusa

[Patrick]

For just slip ons you can get a satisfactory map by using a Yosh box and reflashing the stock ECU.

[mathews]

My 02 gsxr has slip on and k@n filter.Never been mapped and runs great.Some need to be mapped some dont.But it never hurts

[knee_dragger]

My 02 gsxr has slip on and k@n filter.Never been mapped and runs great.Some need to be mapped some dont.But it never hurts
I have a full 3 bros on my honda w/o map and it runs fine.

[witchdoctor575]

you guys just remember. It will run like a bat out of hell for awhile...then the valves burn up and your screwed.

[Patrick]

Most inlines won't have that issue.
Matter of fact, most of them tend to run a little rich down low and in the midrange due to the sensors seeing more air but not knowing how much more.
Lot's of the maps have negative numbers throughout it to compensate for this.

RC's are a whole different breed. Between the flapper mod and installing air filters that flow a whole lot better than stock, you're really changing the intake parameters of the bike. Add a really free flowing exhaust like some Satos and you're way out of the ballpark.

It's one of the reasons RC's can post really good gains with a custom map.

[witchdoctor575]

gotcha.

[H2447INTX]

well i put the yoshis on and rode sunday for a wile and it ran great, they are quieter then stock, and i did not have the filter in yet but will tommaro, i think its running leaner, couse we her out for like 6 hours sunday and i had like no sut or anything in the tail pipe, any way it will get remaped couse i do not want iss, with plugs and valves, or with my warenty. but it did run fine!

they are strait threw cans race cans , no baffles!:nod:

[ZXALAN]

Do not remap it.....

Yosh box tuning is a joke so don't let the dealer hustle you on that. On Hayabusas, you really don't need any remapping until you get into internal mods.

Busas runs rich up top...the only place where you MAY discover you have a stumble is down low, and transitioning into the midrange... Not likely though..

Save your money... I have dyno tested several busas with full pipes, fully modded air boxes and stock ECMs, no PCIIIUSBs and they still barely nudge 13.2-1 AFR up top.... some did develop a slight lean stumble down low but nothing that you couldn't live with it. Busas are known for the stumble at low throttle imputs around 2k rpms, especially if you mod the air box.

[ZXALAN]

ALSO, soot in the tail pipe tells you nothing... your pipes will turn black eventually but if its not SOOTY, thats a good thing.. Black sooty pipes are woefully rich.

Ride it and enjoy it.

[Gixxer Geezer]

I put scorpions slip on my busa.. while at stubbs they richen it up a bit..also k/n air filter... dont really notice any difference.. except it runs cooler.. never gets above the midline on heat gauge. thats all i have noticed...

[josh302]

mapping without dyno is kind of a get-by. Buy a new chain and stainless front lines for your bike before you crash it. IMO and a few others, after I crashed my bus a few times, I relized the stock front lines are defective, they will give you a false feel then lock the front wheel. Truth, happend to me a co-rider, a board member the other day, and many other people.

[H2447INTX]

WELL I HAD STUBBS REMAP WHEN THEY DID THE SERVICE BUT IT SEAMS LIKE IT IDLES ROUGH BUT IT RUNS GOOD AND I DO NOT REALY NOTICE ANY DIFF, OTHER THAN IDLE ,ANY WAY ITS GOOD AND I DO NOT KNOW WHAT OTHER MODS I AM DOING RIGHT NOW SO I AM NOT SPENDING $300 ON A PROGRAMER , IF I GET IN TO DRAGS MORE I WILL WORRY ABOUT MODS AND HOURS POWER EXT, ANY WAY I DID GET IT MAPED AT STUBBS THANKS

[Gixxer Geezer]

mapping without dyno is kind of a get-by. Buy a new chain and stainless front lines for your bike before you crash it. IMO and a few others, after I crashed my bus a few times, I relized the stock front lines are defective, they will give you a false feel then lock the front wheel. Truth, happend to me a co-rider, a board member the other day, and many other people.


so should we spring for the stainless ones???

[Patrick]

Yep, stainless lines do wonders for the Busa brakes. Run about $70.00 .

[Tango1300]

I've spent considerable time playing on the dyno with my Busa and changing maps. Each one made significant changes to how my bike runs. I have a Maxton, Economy and street maps that all make a difference.

You can work on the cylinder balance by checking vacuum levels on your thottle bodies... that should smooth out the idle. They probably leaned it out on the low side to improve the throttle response. Now that change has affected the cylinder balance at idle. Having a stock airfilter can mask such imbalances and the idle is typically bumped a bit to cover this too.

Did you remove the Pair Valve or tubes yet? Marble Mod? Small or Large Box Mod?

The slip-ons can be taken off anyways... they are useless without removing the header & midpipes. Do yourself a favor and get a Ti-Force exhaust and drop 26 pounds off that bike. Slip ons hardly ever make a gain on a Busa cause the restriction is further up the pipes.

Best of luck with your bike! AND NEVER let a Stubbs Service Writer ride your Busa!!

[H2447INTX]

I've spent considerable time playing on the dyno with my Busa and changing maps. Each one made significant changes to how my bike runs. I have a Maxton, Economy and street maps that all make a difference.

You can work on the cylinder balance by checking vacuum levels on your thottle bodies... that should smooth out the idle. They probably leaned it out on the low side to improve the throttle response. Now that change has affected the cylinder balance at idle. Having a stock airfilter can mask such imbalances and the idle is typically bumped a bit to cover this too.

Did you remove the Pair Valve or tubes yet? Marble Mod? Small or Large Box Mod?

The slip-ons can be taken off anyways... they are useless without removing the header & midpipes. Do yourself a favor and get a Ti-Force exhaust and drop 26 pounds off that bike. Slip ons hardly ever make a gain on a Busa cause the restriction is further up the pipes.

Best of luck with your bike! AND NEVER let a Stubbs Service Writer ride your Busa!!


what is the pair valve mod, i have seen how they put the marble in the tube but what is that doing , i am new to busas, and i have a k&n filter and the tre will that aff the idle after maping?, as far as the cans i was looking for sound and not realy more power that is why i didnt get the full system, any way thanks for the input


and i still have busa gauges for sale ,

[ZXALAN]

what is the pair valve mod, i have seen how they put the marble in the tube but what is that doing , i am new to busas, and i have a k&n filter and the tre will that aff the idle after maping?, as far as the cans i was looking for sound and not realy more power that is why i didnt get the full system, any way thanks for the input


and i still have busa gauges for sale ,

So Stubbs flashed it with the yosh box, do you know what settings they put it at? probaby +5,+5, 0. The settings will make a difference in AFR slightly but nothing you will notice on the street.

The TRE will affect the idle(in neutral) because the ECM thinks its in 5th or 6th gear as opposed to neutral so it gets different fueling. You will notice when you pull the clutch in, the idle speed will change because it goes back to the original "neutral map". Its not going to hurt anything. I ran several of them like that for years.

Also you could check the synch on the throttle bodies like Tango mentioned, some times they get a tad out of whack but not often.

The PAIR MOD is removing the pair valve and installing block off plates, OR the "Marble" mod..LOL is just stuffing the marble in the main feed hose.

The PAIR SUCKER mod, is taking the main feed hose from PAIR valve to the air box and attaching to the vent tube on the breather plate on the top of the crank case. The pair valve will then act like a vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the crank case when running. This will give you 1-2hp on the dyno consistantly. I have tested this MANY times... BUT you must becareful when changing your oil, because when you refill the oil and start it, the PAIR is pulling vacuum on the crank case, the oil pump will have a hard time picking up oil. Just start it with the oil cap off for a few mins until the oil pump primes, then you are good to go. Then just put a vacuum cap on the air box hole that was left open.

I have MANY of these old school busa tricks if interested, PM me.:icon_thum