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View Full Version : Evans NPG+ Coolant Conversion Instructions.


Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 08:18 PM
This write up is for my 02 Honda 954. Adjust acordingly for your make and model of bike. I did this mod this weekend, it took two days.

Evans NPG+ is non-aqueous, meaning it doesn't like water. It is also incompatible with ordinary coolants. To convert your blade to NPG+, you need to get rid of all the moisture in your cooling system, as well as all traces of incompatible coolant, thus avoiding contamination.

The way to do this is to flush your cooling ystem as if doing a normal coolant change:

1) Remove the air duct covers and both fairing side panels,
2) Remove the pressure cap from the top of the radiator.
3) Drain the coolant by unscrewing the drain plug located on the water pump (see attached picture)
4) Unscrew the cylinder drain plug and drain the coolant from the cylinder jacket. (see picture)
5) Remove and drain both of the main radiator hoses. These are the two large hoses attached to both sides of the radiator.
6) Drain the coolant reservoir overflow bottle by detaching the hose from the filler neck of the radiator and lowering it into the drain pan.

Once the system is thoroughly drained, there will still be some residual incompatible coolant and water. Here, you need to use an intermediate product that will absorb moisture and is compatiable with Evans NPG+: Sierra Coolant or Prestone LowTox Coolant. These coolants are "pet friendly" nonpoisonous coolants you can find almost anywhere. Since they are made with Propylene Glycol (like Evans), but are aqueous like Ethylene Glycol (ordinary coolant), either is the perfect thing to do the job. This will absorb any residual moisture and cleanse the system, but any residual Sierra or Prestone LowTox will not contaminate the Evans Product. After flushing the system as explained above, fill with straight "pet friendly" coolant (no water), burp the system, and bring it up to full operating temperature.

Allow the bike to cool over night and then repeat steps 1-6 listed above and refill with Evans NPG+. Don't forget to add some to the overflow reservoir filling it to normal levels. Evans exapands a bit more then ordinary coolant when hot.

The procedure might sound complicated, but it's easier then it seems and it well worth doing. It will also be the last time you need to flush and refill your cooling system as normal preventative maintenance. In the future, if you need to drain the cooling system for any reason, just capture the NPG+ in a clean container and refill when you're done.

To convert your cooling system to zero pressure, just remove the rubber seal on the inside of your radiator cap. I recomend not doing this untill you are sure that all air bubbles are out of your cooling system. I am giving mine a week before I make this change.

Evans has a boiling point of 370 degrees at 0 PSI compaired to a 50/50 water/coolant boiling point of 264 degrees at 15 psi.

Evans also has a projected life span of 500,000 miles, thus making it a lifetime coolant for your bike.

I will include pictures in following posts.

Here is the test vehical.

Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 08:19 PM
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Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 08:19 PM
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Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 08:20 PM
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Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 08:21 PM
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level5
09-19-2006, 08:41 PM
Thanks for the info.

jetcycles
09-19-2006, 08:51 PM
What sort of temperature changes will this induce? Major benefits? any other Pro's and Con's of running this coolant? Inquiring minds want to know

Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 09:00 PM
What sort of temperature changes will this induce? Major benefits? any other Pro's and Con's of running this coolant? Inquiring minds want to know

I am expecting my operating temps to be the same as they always have been, the only temp change is that my coolant can take 370 degrees now. It effectively raises the ceiling of my coolant system and the max tempurature that my bike can handle.

It also allows you to run a 0 PSI system. This releases pressure on all internal parts of the coolant system, thus extending their life.

It protects against boil overs.

Eliminates system scaling and corrosion

Eliminates pump cavitation

Reduces engine hot spots.

Evans claims it also increases power.

Here is their website for motorcycles

http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm

TxVrod
09-19-2006, 09:04 PM
Yup, your engine temp is going to always be at least what your thermostat is regulated for. Fans should come on at the same temp as normal... Your jap bikes have fans, right?

Sc0
09-19-2006, 09:06 PM
I was looking into this stuff as sold by lubespecialists.com. Their for TDI's they mentioned after draining to flush out with water, then to run the engine a bit to get the remaining water out. (granted a bike is simpler than a car) I was actually thinking about it but decided not to, if for some unforsaken reason you do lose coolant you can't mix it with the Evans. You can drain the Evans stuff on the ground and put water or water/coolant mix in but mixing would be a no no. (ask GM mechanics about mixing Dexcool) Also Evans NPG+ is costly, but you gain a higher boiling point and is possible to run a zero pressure coolant system... (Still have to drain it and refill for the track too, if you don't and go down LOTS of people will remember you for a LONG time...)

Worthwhile on a bike, depends on your pocketbook. 75/25% Aquafina/coolant mix works well for me.

Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 09:06 PM
Yup, your engine temp is going to always be at least what your thermostat is regulated for. Fans should come on at the same temp as normal... Your jap bikes have fans, right?

lol, Yes, they have fans.:laughing6

Gigolo Jason
09-19-2006, 09:09 PM
Cost for me was around 50 bucks.

jetcycles
09-19-2006, 09:25 PM
thanks for the lesson, I appreciate the knowledge you all share.

bentgixxer
09-19-2006, 09:33 PM
now i may be wrong here, but if there is no pressure in the system, wouldnt the pump be MORE likely to cavitate? I would think with no pressure, it would make it more possible for air to travel with the coolant instead of being " purged " to the highest point.

Please correct me if im wrong, im not really sure.

I'm not good with small water pumps, im used to the 1000-2000 gpm pumps in fire engines. ( not exactly similar, but a waterpump none-the less )

Gigolo Jason
09-20-2006, 05:38 AM
now i may be wrong here, but if there is no pressure in the system, wouldnt the pump be MORE likely to cavitate?

Zero pressure is sort of a missnomer. Your pump will always provide some pressure through it's normal operation. The zero pressure thing only refers to the radiator cap.

I would think with no pressure, it would make it more possible for air to travel with the coolant instead of being " purged " to the highest point.

This is correct, that is why I am waiting a week or so before I go zero pressure. I am making sure that there is no air in the system. In the mean time I will be running my normal radiator cap.

I'm not good with small water pumps, im used to the 1000-2000 gpm pumps in fire engines. ( not exactly similar, but a waterpump none-the less )

I work with mud pumps on drilling rigs, similar to your fire pumps. :hello:

bentgixxer
09-20-2006, 05:40 AM
sounds reasonable to me , might have to look into it for the F3. :icon_thum